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Harness Installed TSCU MOD for LED Conversions

Harness Installed TSCU MOD for LED Conversions

  • I already converted to LEDs and used Matchless's mod.

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    13

posplayr

Forum LongTimer
Past Site Supporter
TGSR Superstar
THIS MOD IS FOR ALL LATER Suzuki TSCU's that use the 5 wire right left hand switch hand 3 prong Flasher Connector with Tridon EP34 flasher .
http://www.amazon.com/Tridon-EP34-F...bs_auto_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=192GTSWPQB5RHRXYGNGJ


WARNING IF YOU ARE CONTEMPLATING CHANGING OVER TO LED's (with no BALLASTS) without swapping out your R/R to a SERIES you will add much more stress to your stator, hastening it's demise even faster than the path it is already on.

With mathematical certainty:

a MORE BURNED STATOR WILL RESULT FROM: LED's. AND. NO SIGNAL Ballast RESISTORS AND SHUNT R/R

GET a SERIES R/R and start swapping out incandescent lights for LEDs


READ HERE SOMEONE WITH FIRST HAND EXPERIENCE

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=222728


OK I have been recently looking at ways to retain my Turn Signal Cancel Unit (TSCU) function after I convert to LED signal lights and will have swapped out my OEM signal flasher for an LED signal flasher. The well understood problem is that the Turn cancel function wont work any more once you swap out the original OEM flasher. Something has to change to make the LED flasher work with the old TSCU.

THIS MOD IS FOR ALL later Suzuki TSCU's that use the 5 wire right left hand switch hand 3 prong Flasher Connector with Tridon EP34 flasher .
http://www.amazon.com/Tridon-EP34-F...bs_auto_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=192GTSWPQB5RHRXYGNGJ

See Quote from Steve below, there are other flashers with different polarity. I'll have to check that out as they may be easier to configure:
I was comparing the flasher terminal wiring diagrams on a few different flashers and went with the EP36, because it matched the plug wiring. When I tested the system (without your adapter), nothing worked. I used jumpers to reverse the polarity and it worked just fine. I will have to get an EP34 flasher, instead. You might want to make a mention with your instructions that a Tridon EP34 flasher will fit the stock socket and work, as long as you cut the line to the TSCU and install the adapter.

attachment.php



Matchless (Andre) has done a lot of work on this and I'm sure it has saved me a lot of time not having to research as much on figuring out what the problem is. Andre has graciously posted those results and modifications here at the GSR(along with a lot of other write-ups). Others have helped as well (Thanks Steve and Rusty and others that have worked on this problem)

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=154528

So I have considered all of the above and made some of my own measurements and think I might have come up with an alternative solution. You can decide if you think it is any better, I need to order some parts, but I have little doubt it will work, just a matter of hooking it up and testing I think ;).

Conceptually here is what it is. It is a small device you mount right in your harness near the TSCU. It is basically inserted inline with the Black/Blue wire from the TSCU and also picks up the same ground located there as well. This makes your Harness compatible with the OEM TSCU and the EP34 3 prong LED flasher (shown above).
I still need to test if you want to leave it in and run the OEM flasher; basically making your harness LED ready.


TSCU_MOD_LEDS_zps8524e59a.jpg


Basically this is a little PC board with 3 or 4 components on it to accomplish the job but also protect itself from bad things. This is automotive grade stuff so it is at least -40 to +85 degC rated. It is small enough to be attached directly on your harness near the TSCU only requiring a bit of tape of heat shrink to hold it in place. Actually it could go anywhere between the TSCU and the 3 prong flasher plug as long as there is a convenient ground. It should not get hot to any extent and in fact once it is covered you can basically forget about it.

I'm looking at providing these as follows:

  • $25.00 each with lifetime warranty (fix or replace**)
  • Paid through Paypal
  • Delivered in the US (I need to check on international shipping costs for small envelopes)

** Assuming the device is used as per the installation guide. So if it fails for some reason I want to see a picture of your install before you remove it.

I would like to see if there is any interest before I purchase a bunch of parts nobody wants. If you want more than one email me at solidstatepowerbox@gmail.com and we can work out combined shipping.


As an alternative, anybody could probably use a mechanical relay to do the same thing. Here is an example using a Standard Automotive relay to do the exact equivalent. The lower picture shown is a mini automotive relay.
TCSU_MOD_MECHANCIAL_RELAY_zpsajxpdyoz.jpg
 

Attachments

  • EP_Flasher_Compare.jpg
    EP_Flasher_Compare.jpg
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What I want is a reliable OEM 6 and 4 pin style for the Skunks and Colleys. Not interested in LEDs myself. Just want the OEM system to work and be reliable.
 
Jim, in my particular case, I would rather install a series regulator than install led's. The way I figure it, the regulator needs to be done first long before any reduction in loads takes place.

Yes I do know that an upgrade to led's will allow one to have more power available for heated vests and such, but without protection for the stator taking place first, upgrading to led's would in my opinion be a rather foolhearted way of doing things.

Now, with that said, using something like this combined with a replacement flasher would make for a nice upgrade when the stock flasher croak's like mine did. Just sell it in combination with a new electronic flasher so it can be used as a replacement and, if they choose, as a led flasher.
 
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Jim, in my particular case, I would rather install a series regulator than install led's. We way I figure it, the regulator needs to be done first long before any reduction in loads takes place.

Yes I do know that an upgrade to led's will allow one to have more power available for heated vests and such, but without protection for the stator taking place first, upgrading to led's would in my opinion be a rather foolhearted way of doing things.

Now, with that said, using something like this combined with a replacement flasher would make for a nice upgrade when the stock flasher croak's like mine did. Just sell it in combination with a new electronic flasher so it can be used as a replacement and, if they choose, as a led flasher.

I would say your HAVE to install a Series R/R in order to run LED's unless you plan to ballast them up as well. With LED's, NO ballasts and a Shunt R/R that R/R will torture the stator for every mill amp not consumed by the LED's :eek:

I'm figuring a switch to LED reduces consumption by about 90% so that means the signal circuit which runs at 5 amps average and peaks to 9 will be 0.5 and 0.9 amps respectively. That will give plenty of available power for heated clothing.


I'm not looking to redesign (or even provide) something that is commonly available all over ebay for $6.99. This is pretty much a GS specific mod for LED conversion retaining TSCU function, unless and until there might be other bikes with similar issues.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EKDZ3PA/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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Jim, what I'm trying to get across is make it a point to unequivocally state that this mod is to only be used to replace the stock flasher using incandescent bulbs or, led's with an upgraded R/R (or ballast resistors). That way you don't have someone saying the mod destroyed their stator. CYA at its finest.

I do understand quite a few people would like to upgrade their lights to led's without ever fully understanding the consequences of their actions.
 
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Jim, what I'm trying to get across is make it a point to unequivocally state that this mod is to only be used to replace the stock flasher using incandescent bulbs or, led's with an upgraded R/R (or ballast resistors). That way you don't have someone saying the mod destroyed their stator. CYA at its finest.

I do understand quite a few people would like to upgrade their lights to led's without ever fully understanding the consequences of their actions.

Dale,
I think i get your point, but to a certain extent it is making it more confusing.

LED's.AND.NO Ballasts.AND. SHUNT R/R's=BURNED STATOR regardless of whether there is a TSCU either with or without a mod.

The TSCU mod is not really related to the above. Of course

LED's SIGNALS.AND. LED FLASHER .AND. TSCU LED Mod are likely to occur which is only one of the conditions involved in the overall burned stator condition.

I will put up a warning though regardless, but not tie it to the TSCU modification for the reasons stated .

Thanks for the comments.
Jim






really seperable from the
 
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I didn't realize installing the LEDs could cause problems for my stator but I just now upgraded to a Polaris R/R so hopefully that will be okay; thank you for putting that out there.
 
I plan on going with LED's this summer after I get my bike finished up. I will take a unit from you in the coming weeks. I will be getting rid of the TSCU on my 82 and going with an electronic flasher.
Where can I get a series RR, and is it a direct bolt in, or does modifying the wires have to be done from the stator? And where does the excess voltage go on a series RR?
Does the shunt type bleed the excess voltage back into the RR itself, and is that why they get so hot?
 
I plan on going with LED's this summer after I get my bike finished up. I will take a unit from you in the coming weeks. I will be getting rid of the TSCU on my 82 and going with an electronic flasher.
Where can I get a series RR, and is it a direct bolt in, or does modifying the wires have to be done from the stator?

See the electrical links on the second line of my signature


Also please vote.
 
I plan on going with LED's this summer after I get my bike finished up. I will take a unit from you in the coming weeks. I will be getting rid of the TSCU on my 82 and going with an electronic flasher.
Where can I get a series RR, and is it a direct bolt in, or does modifying the wires have to be done from the stator? And where does the excess voltage go on a series RR?
Does the shunt type bleed the excess voltage back into the RR itself, and is that why they get so hot?

It switches instead of shunting.
Shunts to the stator.
 
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I plan on going with LED's this summer after I get my bike finished up. I will take a unit from you in the coming weeks. I will be getting rid of the TSCU on my 82 and going with an electronic flasher.
Where can I get a series RR, and is it a direct bolt in, or does modifying the wires have to be done from the stator? And where does the excess voltage go on a series RR?
Does the shunt type bleed the excess voltage back into the RR itself, and is that why they get so hot?

The OEM TSCU is what controls the Turn Cancel in conjunction with the OEM Flasher relay.

The flasher relay is incompatible with the LED's (flashes too fast) and

the TSCU is incompatible with the new aftermarket Flashers.

This mod is to marry the OEM TSCU with the new LED Flashers (i.e. make them compatible and work together). If you don't need Turn Cancel you don't need it.
 
Looks good to me. Will probably get one, at first, to verify it's what I want. If it works as I expect, will get three more. :D

.
 
I read through your pages concerning the RR's and I will be going with the Series RR. My brother in law is a Polaris dealer, so I'm going to see if I can get a deal through him.
I didn't realize you could get them through a Polaris dealer. I'm always looking on E-Bay to see what's there. Nice to know there are other options.
Is there any appreciable difference between the MOSFET FH020AA as compared to the SH775 other than size and a few dollars difference in price?
Thanks for the write up.
 
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I read through your pages concerning the RR's and I will be going with the Series RR. My brother in law is a Polaris dealer, so I'm going to see if I can get a deal through him.
I didn't realize you could get them through a Polaris dealer. I'm always looking on E-Bay to see what's there. Nice to know there are other options.
Is there any appreciable difference between the MOSFET FH020AA as compared to the SH775 other than size and a few dollars difference in price?
Thanks for the write up.

Yes the FH020AA is a MOSFET SHUNT R/R and will burn your stator to a chrisp.
 
Looks good to me. Will probably get one, at first, to verify it's what I want. If it works as I expect, will get three more. :D

.

Will be looking forward to your kicking the tires on one. :)
 
Just let me know when the tires are ready to kick. :D

.

Quick, update. I got my LED flasher in and did side by tests of it and the original flasher. Finally got my head screwed around correctly and got the correct polarity and figured out what I had missed with Andre's mod. Anyway. I could cobble something together as a test, but will wait for some PCB's to be made for everybody else. I have several project going at the moment so I expect to send out for boards in 2-4 weeks. I will tag this on then.

I also finally got (after a little trial and error) a full complement of bargain bin LED lights from Amazon and in almost every case the LED's are very comparable if exceed the incandescent lights in the stock GS1100E housings. There are some coloration differences, but you almost cant tell the difference except my tail light on the license plate is a cooler bluish white.

I still need a replacement for my brake modulator and will be working on an HID modulator for the 55W DDM units I got. Single bulb with a H/L motorized select. Draws less than 5 amps warm so no more than H-4 unit I already have.


http://www.ddmtuning.com/Product-Categories/Motorcycle-HID-Kits-Lighting
 
road test tonight (bike night) it worked. Stock TSCU, LED flasher and all LED lamps and brake lamps.
 
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