It doesn't matter what way you connect the three yellow wires. The three phases are identical.
What's that interesting looking foreign car in the background?
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It doesn't matter what way you connect the three yellow wires. The three phases are identical.
What's that interesting looking foreign car in the background?
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Ill make sure to rip off those labels then, what a brilliant way to make people worry. Was also confused as to why they would color them the same xD
What car it is completely eludes me at the moment, not a brand I was familiar with but it sounded american... I can ask him if I can't recall it later.
Just double checking here. We are talking about the three yellow from the stator. The original wires were Green/White, Blue/White and Yellow. The G/W went off to the front of the bike where it changed to A Red/White that eventually made it's way to the rectifier. Best advice is to send the three stator phases directly to the rectifier, eliminating the big loop. What rectifier have you got?
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Yes.'
I do not know what rectifier I have, and I'm not sure where it is. I hear people want to replace it with something for an ATV or snowmobile or something. But I have no idea where it is, and the power system seems to work great apart from a previous corrosion issue with the fuses (fixed by oxide cleaner, sanding and dielectric grease).
The car is a Volvo 164. Classic cars is clearly not my fort?.
Is the left the left from the orientation of sitting on it?
I don’t want to burst your bubble, because it’s seems your doing a thorough job of fixing properly what needs fixing as you find things. But have you attempted to remove any exhaust flange bolts on the front side of the head yet. These will present the same challenges as the carb boot bolts. When you do this, lots of penetrating oil, maybe heat, still may not save those bolt heads from breaking off. It’s great to have a friend willing to weld for beer when(not if) this happens. On the exhaust side, it’s tougher to access those bolts because of the down tubes of the frame in front of the engine. Keep up the good work and the detailed posts, please.
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But they are bolts not screws
And not broken! Yet...It seemed the ones I had used penetrating oil on for days were just as hard as the ones with none. My friend did use PTFE spray though, maybe that is better than penetrating oil.
I think his poison is jack daniels, I was thinking of dropping by his work with a bottle next week. He works at a "competing" school.
Some polishing later and they look nice and shiny. The rubber is chipping off next to the screw and around the edges. Not super stoked to buy new ones (€32 a piece...) and the rubber on the carb end is nice and whole and flexible.
I need to polish the other end tomorrow so its also nice and smooth. Took dark now sadly.
It had a Volvo look about it
The original r/r units were a so called shunt design. The excess energy was sent back to the stator. The ATV r/r is a series design, the SH775 is used a lot as it switches off the charging current when not needed reducing the heat load on the stator.
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It had a Volvo look about it
The original r/r units were a so called shunt design. The excess energy was sent back to the stator. The ATV r/r is a series design, the SH775 is used a lot as it switches off the charging current when not needed reducing the heat load on the stator.
It was like $153 with shipping, hmm. I sort of want to improve the electrical system, getting rid of the fusebox and putting something like Rowe Amplink PDM. I'd love to not have to worry about fuses (got stranded twice, second time I realize the fuses werent breaking but it was corrosion so I got home by myself). I also want the GPS to stay on for something like 15 minutes after killing the ignition (so it doesn't have to restart when I stop to snap a picture or something). And I want an easier way to add accessories. Now I have a bad habit of just sticking things to the battery (like the gps, and the charger things). But it seems like a somewhat big project, and it will have to wait til after my two current projects: 1) braided steel brake lines and 2) stopping the oil leaks (front either tach cable, or cam cover, secondary drive, no idea what will just replace all rubber inside it, and cam chain tensioner have the parts just have to prepare for it).
I am also getting some tiny parts like new bolt for the torque arm, the original brake bolts, dampeners for the mirrors, clutch springs, new levers (probably not a necessity but they looked better) and I have some sanding and painting to do to get rid of rust and paint damages.
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