HELP! Battery?

[Redman]

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I could switch the sportster and 11E batteries temporarily (Sportster starts fine). I mean, they're both 12 volt, right? Are there any differences (amps, ohms, cranking power, etc.) that would make that unfeasible?..
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Yah, both 12vdc. Might have different total power (AmpHour) but that not too much of a factor other than might be differnet physixcal dimensions such that not fit in battery box.

If does fit, do be aware of which side is + and which is -.
SOme batterys are oppositie of the other, and you do not want to hook up backwards.

 

[Rob S.]

Yah, both 12vdc. Might have different total power (AmpHour) but that not too much of a factor other than might be differnet physixcal dimensions such that not fit in battery box.

If does fit, do be aware of which side is + and which is -.
SOme batterys are oppositie of the other, and you do not want to hook up backwards.

Yeah, it would just be a temporary, static test. I wouldn't ride it like that. Susie's AGM may even still be on warranty.

I was looking for one of these with a Happy/Sad face on it (to indicate battery charge) but could not find one.

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-40510A...FBZHGYFKNCS&psc=1&refRID=FKTKM91VJFBZHGYFKNCS

This is one takes even less thinking

https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP...B0YEGQMTWSE&psc=1&refRID=DVTWBFTMGB0YEGQMTWSE

Tis the season - I could ask Santa.

 

[Guest]

start with a half decent multi meter,
or call a tow truck

 

[Baatfam]

Dude...
Do you not have just one friend that knows how to use a meter or test light?
Just one?
Maybe ask around? Neighbors, coworkers?

 

[LAB3]

https://www.hfqpdb.com/best_coupon/7+FUNCTION+DIGITAL+MULTIMETER

 

[Rob S.]

Those of you without stock airbox on '82 - '83 11E know that the last step to removing the battery is removing a frame sub member. Mine was held in place by a jumble of Phillips head screws and bolts. A screw driver and a socket or small vise grips did the job. My mechanic replaced these with four shiny new Allen head bolts. My Allen head wrenches are, shall we say, disorganized.

Those who still use the stock airbox know that it takes a very full head of hair, because it has to be ripped out in large clumps, not just small tufts.

Thanks for the tip LAB3.

BTW, I've taken out my shop manuals. Couldn't hurt to know what the starter relay looks like and where it's located.

 

[Rob S.]

I was looking for one of these with a Happy/Sad face on it (to indicate battery charge) but could not find one.

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-40510A...FBZHGYFKNCS&psc=1&refRID=FKTKM91VJFBZHGYFKNCS

This is one takes even less thinking

https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-MP...B0YEGQMTWSE&psc=1&refRID=DVTWBFTMGB0YEGQMTWSE

So what I could use is a "battery load tester"?

Thanks, Pos.

 

[posplayr]

So what I could use is a "battery load tester"?

Thanks, Pos.

If you had a volt meter you could just look at the voltage change from turning the key on (See steps #1,#2 of Quick Test) . Since that is too complicated, this load tester will do he same thing but at a higher load level.

Basically you want to see how far the battery drops in voltage when you put on a known load.

Standard GS loads without cranking but including headlamp is about 0.5 V but not more than 1 volt drop.

https://www.thegsresources.com/_for...rging-System-QUICK-TEST&p=1272192#post1272192

Quick Test Steps:

1.) key off................Normal 12.7 volts-12.9 volts

2.) key on (but not cranking with lights for 10 sec).....Normal 12.2-12.5 volts

QUICK TEST Diagnosis Summary:

Basically Step #1 and #2 is making sure the battery is charged and in good health. The drop should be about 0.5 volts for normal headlamp and coil load (without cranking the starter). Anymore than 0.5V drop indicates the battery is weak even though the static voltage is OK (12.7-12.8V). If your battery is any lower it can have an effect on your charging voltages as the charging system only has so much capacity and will be drug down by a poor battery.