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Help me pick out colors and scheme

  • Thread starter Thread starter skreemer
  • Start date Start date
Ah, yes, fat fingers strike again. I used to be able to avoid that syndrome, but no more. The fat has begun to spread from my brain into my body. Hmmmmmmm- my apologies. As to the obsidian, I work for MB, and that color has always tickled my optic nerves. Thier signal red is a very good red color also, better than BMW or Prsche's racing reds.
The old school trick I've used recently on a couple paint projects was to add about 10% color into the final three layers of clear, and give it that mile deep look.
 
so anyone with painting experience know how I'd go about prepping the plastics? I've rattle canned pretty good jobs onto tanks and frames... though I've never had to prep the plastics I was going to paint.. someone else usually did that before I got them...


and this time it won't be rattle can... the guy with the paint booth has a 3 gun set up and said he hlp me out...
 
Astroman said:
2966337102_b4140a9318_o.jpg
Click to expand...

Nice work Astroman. How about a two tone Blue & Silver scheme? Change the red to silver, the black to metaliac blue and the wheels to gun metal grey.
 
If I were going to powder coat a frame and paint a bike I would powder coat fluorescent orange with carbon fiber body work simply cleared to show the carbon. But, no one would ever buy it since I'm the only one who likes those colors. Paint it however you like unless you plan to sell it right away.
 
To prep the plastics you will need adhesion promoter, or the paint will never work. I have had luck with bumper/rubber primer applied immediately as a wipe down with isopropyl alcohol is flashed off. Also remember that any imperfections visible on the parts before he paints will be clearly visible after the paint.
 
skreemer said:
so anyone with painting experience know how I'd go about prepping the plastics? I've rattle canned pretty good jobs onto tanks and frames... though I've never had to prep the plastics I was going to paint.. someone else usually did that before I got them...


and this time it won't be rattle can... the guy with the paint booth has a 3 gun set up and said he hlp me out...
Click to expand...

Plastics utilize adhesion promoters and flex agents in the paint.

Adhesion promoters because plastic is essentially made from oil ( though not all, some are derived from methane ).

Flex agents because as you know plastic flexes and bends.This prevents teh paint from cracking.

Higher quality urethane paints are far better than rattle cans in terms of durability, longevity and are only slightly higher in cost depending on color and brand than the total cost of a rattle can job.

I learned to paint cars with Laquer then utilized enamels on some restorations. Urethane and epoxy paints are definetly worth the money. You can probably get paint kits for under $200.00 of name brand paints like Centauri or Valspar for a bike.

I just finished doing a rattle can ( duplicolor ) job on a rear wing for my car and i have to say i will never do it again. I went this route because i don't have my compressor set up where i reside. The finish looks great but i don't think it will hold up to the florida sun, even with all the clear coat. Only time will tell.

Hope this helps.
 
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this is great folks... keep up with the pointers and tips...


I.E. do I have to worry about humidity when I paint... It'll be indoors but the humidity is really high right now and will drop as winter approaches...
 
Depending on the paint you use, you would have to be very worried about humidity. Some paints will haze in too humid an environment (such as lacquers and some urethanes). That being said, last time I sprayed clear 2 part urethane I sprayed it on my garage roof in the sun during the summer in the DC area with no hazing. It was curing as it hit the part as I used hypercure paint and it was a black (carbon fiber) surface so it was pretty toasty. I highly recommend using urethane paints, they are durable and require far fewer coats than lacquers.
 
skreemer said:
this is great folks... keep up with the pointers and tips...


I.E. do I have to worry about humidity when I paint... It'll be indoors but the humidity is really high right now and will drop as winter approaches...
Click to expand...

Bucket is right about the hazing on laquers, you have to be VERY worried about humidity because in some cases the paint will literally wrinkle up on the surface. The paint lifts off the surface.

After curing on some enamels this wrinkle effect tends to subside but it will ruin your finish and you are in for more color sanding.

Just follow the data sheets on each paint in particular and you should be fine.

Get advice on agents which slow down or speed up the drying times or flash times between coats from the paint supplier. And practice on scrap until you are comfortable.

Hope this helps
 
Didn't you mention to me one time something about the Japanese flag sun? That would be cool carried all the way through the bike from the tank....

You ever get side panels?

japanese_flag1.gif
 
80gs1000e said:
Didn't you mention to me one time something about the Japanese flag sun? That would be cool carried all the way through the bike from the tank....

You ever get side panels?

japanese_flag1.gif
Click to expand...

Griffin came through and got side panels to me like a week ago... Now it's a matter of getting stuff painted up...

I'm saving the flag/red and white till I get an '80 or similar model... for the primary rid I want it in the colors I like... hence black and blue.
 
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