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Help! My clutch is nackard!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Scousebil
  • Start date Start date
S

Scousebil

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Hi ... Can anyone help me out? I replaced the clutch plates on my 1989 GSX750ES today - seemed easy enough i drained the oil, took off the side cover, swapped the plates and put it back together again with a new filter and fresh oil. Put my lid on, jumped on the old girl for a spin and the clutch lever had gone completely slack. It springs back but has hardly any resistance and i certainly can's select any gears. I know it needs readjusting after fitting new plates but it feels as though it isn't actually engaging the clutch. I can see from the lower adjuster that the cable hasn't snapped, so where have I gone wrong? Any advice greatly appreciated!
 
Did you adjust the cable yet?

Also, did you replace the clutch springs? I doubt this is the problem but have to ask?
 
You haven't got any bits left over - like the push piece or bearing etc? 2 part push rod in them as well isn't it?
 
Clutch lever slack means you need to tighten/adjust the cable. I'd try removing all the slack and then go from there.
 
I didn't have any bits left over no - i literally just removed the old plates and slotted the new ones in. I've adjusted the clutch cable all the way with no effect. Think i'll have to take the cover off and have another look at it... thanks for your help guys
 
Ok so i drained the oil and had took the side cover off to have a look if anything was out of place. Everything looks like the photographs in the Haynes. When i pull the clutch lever, the headed push piece protrudes slightly out of the cover plate and then returns on a very weak spring action. Is this what is supposed to happen?
 
I'm assuming the headed push piece isn't pushing far enough out into the cover plate to move it against the springs. Would this be because the cable is too slack and if it's already at full adjustment what then?
 
The clutch pushrod adjustment is on the LH side of the engine. You loosen the lock nut, turn in the adjuster until the cable slack is removed, then reset the lock nut. Before adjusting the helix it's best to turn in the cable adjusters in all the way. All this info is in the service manual. I don't know if this is the problem but it's the obvious place to start.

If for some reason you don't have a service manual for your bike, you can download one for free here...http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
 
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Yeah that's right - it's on the left hand side of the engine. Do i screw it into the case? I tried that and it made no difference... chef1366 i'm not sure what you mean - i think it's a push rod.

I'm trying to work this out logically. If the previous plates were worn, the push piece didn't need to push as far out against the cover plate to disengage the clutch plates right? So now i need to readjust it so that it moves further out - does that mean tightening the cable? I understand how the actual clutch works, i just can't get my head around how the lever pushes the rod to disengage the clutch... Thanks for your patience
 
It's a worm drive that twists and pushes the push rod(s). You adjust it by undoing the lock nut and winding the screw in if the clutch isn't disengaging, out of it's slipping.

At the business end you should have the push piece, the bearing and then a washer before the pressure plate.
 
this bike looks like the 85 700 is this so?, i cant find a fiche on it 89 only shows the katana 750f

it should work if it worked before, back track, you have all the plates in ? didnt leave 1 out? an put it with the old ones did ya? i have to ask,
 
As suggested already, make the clutch adjustment at the helix. Also, you can get a real Suzuki 750 manual for FREE off Basscliff's website.


Remove cover over the adjuster...

Turn IN the cable adjusters all the way, both at the engine case and the clutch lever - increasing the slack in the cable...

Loosen the lock nut on the adjuster screw...

Turn in the adjuster screw until you feel resistance. The clutch lever will then feel firm.

Back off the adjuster screw about 1/8 turn and reset the lock nut...

Fine tune the cable freeplay with the adjuster on the end of the cable...

The service manual details this process.

Try this and report back with the results. Most likely the problem will be gone.
 
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Nice vid. What you are calling the adjuster is only the cable adjuster. If you remove the sprocket cover you'll see the other adjuster and that's the one I was on about earlier.
 
Yea nice video, but making it took about 10 times longer than making the cable adjustment.
 
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