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Help needed with new RR install & the headlight switch circuit...

  • Thread starter Thread starter MidWestCoast442
  • Start date Start date
M

MidWestCoast442

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I am attempting to install the Electrosport RR for my '79 GS425. It is my understanding that something should be done to correct/alter the white/red white/green circuit that goes from one phase wire of the stator to the harness to the headlight switch to the RR.

How, exactly, should this circuit be altered in order to improve it?

Thank you!
 
Wow. Wtf? Can someone please update the MF'ing stator papers so that we have good and relevant information on there?

So wtf should I do? Return the electrosport RR and order a series RR?

Suggestions???
 
MidWestCoast442 said:
Wow. Wtf? Can someone please update the MF'ing stator papers so that we have good and relevant information on there?

So wtf should I do? Return the electrosport RR and order a series RR?

Suggestions???
Click to expand...
Return the E/S and get a SH -775 unit- your bike will be grateful and be more reliable
while I'm here, do you have a 442' 1970 vintage?
 
The Electrosport R/R will work just fine if you don't want to, or can't return it. Not sure if the Electrosport R/R is a series or shunt design though.
 
uk gs nut said:
Go here and have a read, http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?228540-Honda-RR-kits-available-again/page2
Click to expand...

+1 to getting a Honda unit from Duaneage if you stay with the shunt type. They are very well built and from what I hear he does a great job. Depending on the "crispness" of your stator and condition of the wiring and connectors, a shunt type R/R may last you a long time yet.

Some say get a series, and that even with a somewhat crispy stator, as long as it's still putting out adequate and equal voltages across all 3 legs it can be saved.

Do you know the condition of your stator?

I need to do the headlight circuit bypass on my new 850 as well. Have you searched it out yet, I haven't gotten that far, still tearing it down...
 
Goddam. What a PITA.

Tom: I have a 1965 442.

Mike: I don't know the condition of the stator. Figured it would be good to replace the RR, regardless. I'll look into the RR's from Duaneage and the series RR's. I haven't been able to find a diagram for the headlight circuit bypass.
 
MidWestCoast442 said:
I haven't been able to find a diagram for the headlight circuit bypass.
Click to expand...

The "headlamp circuit bypass" is simple. On the stock wiring you have three wires coming from the stator. Two wires go straight to the R/R and one wire goes into the main harness. It loops through the headlight bucket and then back to the R/R. Originally there was a headlamp switch that allowed you to turn off the headlamp. The reason for the headlamp loop was to cut one leg of the stator output off when the headlamp was off. This allowed for less current shunted through the R/R and was supposed to keep the stator and R/R from burning out. Once the Feds made it mandatory for the headlights to be on at all time on motorcycles the switch was removed. Rather then modify the harness for the USA they simply connected the two wires together and removed the headlamp switch altogether. The headlight bypass simply connects that third leg of the stator directly to the R/R without going through the main harness and headlamp assembly. This removes several connectors and several feet of wire that's not needed from the charge circuit. What made this all a little more confusing is that the stator wire connected to the main harness through one color wire (Green/White) and was brought back to the R/R through a wire of a different color (Red/White).

Here's a link to the 425 wiring diagram that will help: 425 Wiring Diagram

In the diagram you'll see a Green/White wire leaving the stator and a Red/White wire returning from the headlamp switch and going to the R/R. You simply connect the Green/White wire to the R/R Red/White wire and leave the wires going to the main harness open.

The truth is that any of the three stator wires can connect to any of the three R/R input wires. There is no difference between the three stator wires. Most aftermarket stators use the same color wire on all three. Usually yellow.

Hope this helps
 
Last edited:
Okay. Thanks for all of the help. I'm going to order an RR from Duaneage and see how it goes.

In regards to the headlight switch circuit - My bike has an on/off switch. So cutting-out that loop and wiring the white/red wire directly to the stator will not affect my ability to turn the headlight on & off?
 
MidWestCoast442 said:
Okay. Thanks for all of the help. I'm going to order an RR from Duaneage and see how it goes.

In regards to the headlight switch circuit - My bike has an on/off switch. So cutting-out that loop and wiring the white/red wire directly to the stator will not affect my ability to turn the headlight on & off?
Click to expand...

Yes, you can still turn off the light, but why would you want to? Leaving the light on has proven to be an effective safety feature.
 
MidWestCoast442 said:
In regards to the headlight switch circuit - My bike has an on/off switch. So cutting-out that loop and wiring the white/red wire directly to the stator will not affect my ability to turn the headlight on & off?
Click to expand...
There are actually two sets of contacts in the headlight switch. One of them controls the current from the battery to the light, the other will interrupt one of the stator wires when the headlight is turned OFF. Bypassing the stator wires will not affect your ability to control the headlight.

HOWEVER, ... you should note that if you turn the headlight OFF, there will be more 'excess' current available. At idle, while warming up the bike after startup, it will help charge the battery quicker, but once under way, the R/R will have to shunt a LOT more current. As mentioned before, there are, indeed, safety advantages to having the headlight ON while riding, that will help absorb some of the 'excess' current.

Will also add one detail in the trivia department here: the 'third leg' of the stator that gets turned off by the headlight switch generates just a little bit more than the headlight needs. I discovered that on my son's 450T, when he still had it. The voltage at idle was just a little bit higher with the headlight (and the third stator leg) ON than when it was OFF. :-k

.
 
Okay. Thank you. That helps to clear things up.

I'm not concerned about my ability to turn the headlight off. I was only concerned about my ability to continue to be able to turn it ON. Ya dig?

I do ride with the headlight turned on...for the obvious safety reasons.
 
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