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Help with Charging System

  • Thread starter Thread starter Tenshots1
  • Start date Start date
posplayr said:
OK thanks for your support. While the technical aspects of charging system diagnostics is starting to become a real bore, the GS does provide a unique view of a variety of people's thought processes and that is probably of most interest to me at the moment.
Click to expand...


Hey Pos,

I do really appreciate the help. I apologize for the frustration you're feeling due to my incompetence. I've always been horrible at reading instructions and following them. Also, I stopped mid test since I was confused on why a battery i presumed good would only read 12V while everything is resting, so i came here to get some insight on that. Anyway, if i finally end up with some free time, I will make a better effort to follow the quick charge guide as well as the info you've shared here in order to yield some more useful results.

GT
 
Just to be a bit more specific and to show I'm not "just blowing smoke" consider the problem trying to diagnose the GS charging problems as fast as possible. In addition, knowing what to do to avoid as much down time as possible in the future; this has the same effect as being able to minimize diagnostic time.

In order to do this you need to have the very best understanding how the GS fleet tends to fail, which is the equivalent to having the benefit of the work/repair experience of all the GS mechanics in the world. In the case of the US Army the objective would be to give the most inexperienced mechanic the full benefit derived from cumulative knowledge of the all of the most experienced mechanics.

In addition to this fleet wide average set of failure likelihoods, an optimized automated diagnostics systems would be designed to develop tests results that allowed the mechanics to sequentially decide on a set of next test steps that would time optimally get the vehicle fixed and back running as quickly as possible.

The system has to optimally combine the pool of general knowledge about the fleet wide failures (repair histories) with the specific results from each test on the current vehicle to figure out what the next best step is that will minimize the time it takes to diagnose and fix the charging systems problems for this particular motorcycle.

For charging systems the best approach is an integrated approach( tests evaluate the interaction of the components under test instead of trying to test them independently). This is in contrast with the Stator pages that tries to isolate each part and test them independently. This creates a lot more test complexity and as we have seen in the past can lead people to chasing their tails. As I have posted many times in the past the Quick Test is a sanity check and often a deeper dive into the Revised Phase A and B tests are warranted.

The Quick tests gives a quick overview and avoids an immediate deep dive as in the original stator pages. You can think of starting with a sanity check Quick test that tells you whether to go to Phase A, Phase B or Phase C. After completing that selected phase, you complete the indicated repairs and come back to teh Quick tests to do another assessment.Generally you should probably find yourself ending with Phase A to confirm that the voltage drops are low after every thing is working.

The Phase B stator tests trying to determine whether there is insulation breakdown is some of the hardest for people to get their heads around which further adds to the confusion, although I think it is much better now with the Leg to ground test in addition to the leg to leg tests.
 
Last edited:
Tenshots1 said:
Hey Pos,

I do really appreciate the help. I apologize for the frustration you're feeling due to my incompetence. I've always been horrible at reading instructions and following them. Also, I stopped mid test since I was confused on why a battery i presumed good would only read 12V while everything is resting, so i came here to get some insight on that. Anyway, if i finally end up with some free time, I will make a better effort to follow the quick charge guide as well as the info you've shared here in order to yield some more useful results.

GT
Click to expand...
You are not the first :) get the numbers and post them; Good deal........
 
My two cents. You cannot go cheap here. There is enough evidence on this website that there is an issue with the charging system on these bikes.
I've been reading post after post of the same things.
I tested the battery on my 82 1100l and all was good. Started the bike and got 12 volts at all rpm's. Pulled the stator wires and got 30 volts at idle and 40 volts at all other rpm's. Decided to order an SH775 and a Caltrics stator.
Installed the stator got 87 volts across all the legs. Got in a hurry to ride and neglected to install the SH775 because it didn't come with pigtails I assumed it would have.
I tested the old R/R and still got 12 volts at all rpm's. When I shut the bike off my harness was smoking at the stator connections. Fried. I went ahead and wired the SH775 in direct from the stator (which by the way bolted directly to my battery box with no mods )but it was to late. My brand new Caltrics stator now reads 40 volts across the legs and 2 to 3 volts from leg to ground.
I installed a volt meter on the bike to determine voltage while running and I get an inconsistent 13 volts. The gauge dances from 11 to 14.
I will be the first to admit posplayr knows his s**t.
The moral of my story; replace with a new stator, series R/R, fix grounds, clean connections and bypass headlight loop... period! Stop chasing your tail and finally trust your bike. I found I'm better off at following directions than trying to figure it out to save some money.

Thank you posplayr for all you do.
 
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