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Hi/low lights switch

  • Thread starter Thread starter Andr?
  • Start date Start date
A

Andr?

Guest
Hi all,

On my way back home after work, my voltmeter shows that I have a potential issue with the charging system, it use to go up arround 14 when rev but at the time it stay way below 12 and worst. I was real close to home so I decide to finish the ride and see to it as soon as I arrived.
All connection were good, the batt. level was good put the multimeter on it, it shows 12.43. The stator is almost new and everything was under control since I replaced it last month. I look at the r/r it was not even hot and all wires were in there own place. I was then a bit stunished and did not know where to look so I restart the bike and look at the connections of the inboard voltmeter for a possible failure,working arround it I accidently touch the Hi-beem switch and to my suprise find that it was sitting in the center between hi and low. As soon as I push-it up to the top the voltage return to normal. When the switch is in the middle both filament of the spot are under tension this mean almost a double amount of watts are in used.
Now that I think of hit, one night a couple a weeks back the light fuse blow-up with no short that I can found, it is possible that the switch was stuck between both contacts until the fuse melt under pressure.
The inboard volmeter was not istalled yet at this moment, so I was not aware of that over charge.
I'm real happy with the addition of that voltmeter so far. Thanks to you fellows Gsers for that tip, I hope that my little experiment can help others.

Andr?
 
if you have the headlamp switch loop on one of your stator legs and the switch is in the middle it is possible it is remaining open so you are running on only 2 stator legs.

You should get rid of that by hooking stator directly to the R/R as has been suggested.
 
if you have the headlamp switch loop on one of your stator legs and the switch is in the middle it is possible it is remaining open so you are running on only 2 stator legs.

You should get rid of that by hooking stator directly to the R/R as has been suggested.
Yes to this. If you were actually powering both filaments together- even for a short time- the light fuse would blow.
 
Yes to this. If you were actually powering both filaments together- even for a short time- the light fuse would blow.


On my way back home after work, my voltmeter shows that I have a potential issue with the charging system, it use to go up arround 14 when rev but at the time it stay way below 12 and worst. I was real close to home so I decide to finish the ride and see to it as soon as I arrived.

I'm responding to this. And according to Andre' apparently both filiments can in fact be powered and only blow the fuse intermitently.
 
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