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High RPM idle...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Staninator
  • Start date Start date
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Staninator

Guest
Hi guys, I just purchased an 82 GS650 today and it's my first bike. I love it so far! My dilemma comes in during the idle. If I'm starting it and letting it idle to warm up it idles at 3k... It idles at that rate in both neutral and any other gear. Any time I engage the clutch, it'll go from 1k if it's in 5th gear and it'll jump up to 3k. So pretty much, it's idling at 3k when the clutch is engaged and in neutral... Both cold and warm. Any ideas?
 
Welcome to the Forum! I too own an 82 gs650, but it is the G model :D
Since Bassclif is most likely asleep, I will try and give you some tips. Be sure to read everything that is linked thoroughly, as well as use the search feature for your specific problem

Here are some posts that might point you in the right direction: A stubborn idle thread, as well as Adjusting your idle mixture.

Good luck and welcome again! ;)

Give Basscliff's welcome a thorough reading. Treat it like the unofficial bible you just bought, along with your GS. Also, put your bike's year and model in your signature so people do not have to keep asking what year/model you have.


BassCliff said:
Greetings and Salutations,

If you are here you probably have a 30 year old motorcycle that needs about 20 years worth of maintenance. You'll find all kinds of helpful tips, procedures, manuals, etc, in the links below. Let's get started.

Let me dump a TON of information on you and share some GS lovin'. :D

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.
big_hi.gif


If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....
hat1.gif


Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. This is what NOT to do: Top 10 Newbie Mistakes. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

carpet.jpg


Please Click Here For Your Mega-Welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike! :D

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Click to expand...
 
Sounds carb related to me. Try adjusting the idle with the knob between the carbs. Also make sure choke is not stuck in the on position.
 
intakeb.jpg


Please check the newbie mistakes thread linked in my signature. You can avoid these mistakes if you take this info to heart.
 
almarconi said:
Sounds carb related to me. Try adjusting the idle with the knob between the carbs. Also make sure choke is not stuck in the on position.
Click to expand...

The Choke is all the way in the off position. When I do turn it on, it revs ever higher! Up in the 4k-5k RPM's.

Oh these links are awesome guys! I definitely know that I need to rebuild the carbs. So I should stay away from carb rebuild kits like ones from Dennis Kirk and just replace the o-rings by purchasing some from cycleorings? Or at least where would you guys recommend I get a carb rebuild kit?

Edit: I did just purchase a carb oring kit from cycleorings.com and the intake boot oring set. Those should be here soon! What all does everyone recommend I get to rebuild the carbs?

As you see, I definitely need to learn a bit more. I am new to motorcycles and believe it or not, the first time I've ever ridden a real motorcycle was yesterday and I rode it 50 miles home. I did get my permit yesterday morning of course :)
 
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Staninator said:
So I should stay away from carb rebuild kits like ones from Dennis Kirk and just replace the o-rings by purchasing some from cycleorings? Or at least where would you guys recommend I get a carb rebuild kit?
Click to expand...
The only "kit" you need is the o-ring package from cycleorings, a can of carb cleaner dip (Berryman's or Gunk), and eventually, you will need access to a manometer to synchronize the carbs.

When you get your o-rings from cycleorings, be sure to also get the o-rings for the intake boots, along with the stainless bolts that hold the boots. Be sure to also spring for the extra penny for the drain screw o-rings (not sure why they are not included). Total cost there will be less than the price of one rebuild kit, which usually includes inferior parts that you don't need, as well as leaving out several parts that you do need.

Now it's time to fill in your profile information. Where are you? You can to into the User CP (that stands for Control Panel) to update your location, then feel free to add a simple signature that shows what you ride. That way, you won't have to rmember to mention the bike every time you ask a question about it. Location is nice, just to see where you are, but there might be another GSer reasonably close by that can help you, if necessary.

Be sure to read through the list of newbie mistakes in Nessism's signature, and to bookmark BassCliff's website. He is our official librarian, virtually anything you need to know about these bikes is available on his site.

.
 
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Welcome.

No carb rebuild kit, just get the o-rings, including those for the intake boots from Robert Barr and float bowl gaskets alone. If you can`t get gaskets or cheap like me, buy some gasket material from the autostore and make your own. $20 and you`ll have enough to make float bowl gaskets for life.

When cleaning and rebuilding the carbs, make sure you use carb cleaner and dip them for at least 24 hours the first time. When putting them back together, make sure to measure float height, something that is often overlooked but can cause more issues.

Do the job thoroughly and you should solve your idle issue.

Good luck with it and post some pics of your ride.

cheers,
spyug
 
spyug said:
Welcome.

No carb rebuild kit, just get the o-rings, including those for the intake boots from Robert Barr and float bowl gaskets alone. If you can`t get gaskets or cheap like me, buy some gasket material from the autostore and make your own. $20 and you`ll have enough to make float bowl gaskets for life.

When cleaning and rebuilding the carbs, make sure you use carb cleaner and dip them for at least 24 hours the first time. When putting them back together, make sure to measure float height, something that is often overlooked but can cause more issues.

Do the job thoroughly and you should solve your idle issue.

Good luck with it and post some pics of your ride.

cheers,
spyug
Click to expand...

What about the jets? Do I need to worry about those at all? All those little golden screws...

I will definitely post a pic of my ride soon!
 
Staninator said:
Edit: I did just purchase a carb oring kit from cycleorings.com and the intake boot oring set. Those should be here soon! What all does everyone recommend I get to rebuild the carbs?
Click to expand...
You just answered your own question. You will have the o-rings soon, those and the can of "dip", along with a few days of time, following the tutorial that is linked in Nessism's signature will get you going.

In other words, cleaning the carbs (with the dip) and replacing the o-rings IS the 'rebuild'.

.
 
This is my rod. Factory motor and everything but it's been bobbed with a hardtail, custom seat, and apes.

photo.jpg
 
Good looker Stan, nice work!

Be very careful removing the jets, if they haven't been out in a while they're tuff to remove. Make certain the screw driver you use fits the slot perfectly, the brass they are made of is soft. I made mine starting with a nice Klein screw driver and doing a tiny bit of grinding to get it just right. Now I don't use it for anything else and it will take them right out
 
Here's an update. As I'm waiting for the rings, I have located the idle knob. When I play with that it works and it will idle lower. Now if I leave it at that low idle setting and I ride then come home turn it off and let it sit it starts tough... When I start it, it will idle low and die therefore I need to play with the throttle and choke to keep it going. I will now have to turn the idle knob in to keep it going again... What's the deal? The carb bowls look clean... I drained the fuel from them yesterday. Haven't taken them apart yet but I eventually will. Any ideas again? Syncing the carbs?? What?
 
Staninator, i am new here my self but as the others have told you the orings are essential i fought my father for five different bikes on this before i wised up and just stopped trying to band-aid everything and just started to fix it right. Oring and air leaks will drive you mental. i have the same problem myself right now but know the problem will subside upon PROPER repair. Dont pull out your hair just wait for your o rings so you can do it once and right. FWIW the intake boots them self are 33 each so may as well replace them for cheap security. Just my .02
 
I noticed you have pods on the bike, did you rejet the carbs for the pods and that pipe?

When you take the carbs apart make a note of the jet sizes that are installed. If they are stock you will need to rejet to compensate for the pods/pipe. The easiest way is with a dynojet kit. Clean everything, replace the o-rings, reassemble, set your float height, bench sync the carbs and see how it runs.
 
almarconi said:
I noticed you have pods on the bike, did you rejet the carbs for the pods and that pipe?

When you take the carbs apart make a note of the jet sizes that are installed. If they are stock you will need to rejet to compensate for the pods/pipe. The easiest way is with a dynojet kit. Clean everything, replace the o-rings, reassemble, set your float height, bench sync the carbs and see how it runs.
Click to expand...

You're probably right man. It's never been jetted. If I buy a stage 3 dynojet kit, how simple is it to install? I've never done anything like that before so I have no idea how to go about doing it.

Also, when you say "set the float height", what do you mean by that?
 
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I believe you have Mikuni BS32's on that bike. There is a tutorial on the forum on how to rebuild the carbs. It explains how to set the float height and how to bench sync the carbs. The dynojet comes will instructions, its pretty easy to install. Once you get your carbs cleaned up it will be very clear where all the parts go. Here is the link for the carb cleanup
http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm
 
Actually, there is a much newer and improveder (wait, is that a word?) version here: BassCliff's web site
Scroll down on the right hand side it is the top Mikuni CV rebuild guide by Mr. Nessism.
 
Yeah guys, I looked at both of those. The only thing I'm worried about it the adjustments with the new jets and then fuel screw. Do I need to adjust the jets in any way? Saying that I get the stage 3 kit.
 
No adjustments to the jets. For the screw, use the procedure I wrote, currently residing in the Tips and Tricks section.
If you got the stage 3 kit, you would have to use plug chops to determine the correct main jet, then again to determine the correct slot for the needle.
 
The jet kit should tell you the initial settings for the mixture screws and which notch in the needle to use.
 
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