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Hints on removing intake boots?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Skyboy8950
  • Start date Start date
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Skyboy8950

Guest
82 GS650GL

Well, my carbs are off and I want to look at the o-ring in the intake boot. The problem is that it is a tight space and the screws/bolts are in there pretty tight as they should be. Anyone have any recommendations? Also, how safe would it be to not check them? There is slight discoloration around them, but there was also slight discoloration on the carbs too.

Thanks everyone!
 
82 GS650GL

Well, my carbs are off and I want to look at the o-ring in the intake boot. The problem is that it is a tight space and the screws/bolts are in there pretty tight as they should be. Anyone have any recommendations? Also, how safe would it be to not check them? There is slight discoloration around them, but there was also slight discoloration on the carbs too.

Thanks everyone!

When you're this far, it would be foolish not to do the boots as well. Use a small Vice Grip on the heads of the screws holding the boots on and tap lightly with a hammer on the Vice Grip to loosen them (counter clock-wise). They will come loose...then, once you have the one screw that you are able to get at out on each boot, use a block of wood ie. a 1x1, and tap on the boot at the mounting flange (right where the boot and head meet) and tap lightly in a counter clock-wise direction on the boot and both the boot and screw will loosen. It may be necessary to repeat this process a few times meaning that you'll have to rotate the boot clockwise by hand and repeat the wood and hammer deal, but they will come loose. Replace the old screws with stainless allen head bolts when you put it back together. Hope this helps.
 
This is a great tip. I tried it, but it didn't work. Maybe my vice grips suck (they don't grip well and pop off when I tap it). I'll try some others. Thanks.
 
Last edited:
This is a great tip. I tried it, but it didn't work. Maybe my vice grips suck (they don't grip well and pop off when I tap it). I'll try some others. Thanks.

Make sure it is a GENUINE Vice Grip and clamp down on it like it is the last beer in the cooler on your first day of a four day treck through the Sahara. Also, tap on the side of the Vice Grip with the compression adjuster. Do you have a firm grip.....well do ya? :-D
 
I just did my o-rings...

I just did my o-rings...

What a PITA! I used an impact wrench, but had to remove the battery box, put an extension on the tool, and swing the hammer in the space where the frame has space for the battery. I just couldn't get to the screws with a Vise Grip. Such a big job for so small a part! I know on the 16-valve motors they used different manifolds, with no o-rings necessary.
 
I used an impact wrench on mine. They came out O.K., except for three of them that stripped. (lol) I learned how to heli-coil on this job.

If I have to do it again, I'd probably drill the heads off the screws(carefully of course) pull the manifolds and then use some penetrating oil for a day or two before I unscrewed them with a vice-grips.

Then replace with hex-heads as stated above.
 
This comes up pretty often.

I use a Dremel with a fiberglass-reinforced cutoff wheel. Get in there and carve a slot in each screw for a large standard screwdriver. Then put an adjustable wrench on the NICE NEW Craftsman screwdriver, and you've got it. I've never had this technique fail me, and the screws are then reusable.

If you're going to omit replacing the intake O-rings, you might as well just quit. You will never have a decent running bike.
 
I got some out, but when it came to the very inner screws on 2 and 3, they wouldn't budge and I couldn't get the vice grip in there. The other orings looked fine to me, and there was no sign that the discoloration came from the seals (everything around the seal was clean). I don't know what to do now... I should figure it out.
 
If you can get one screw out of the boots you can get the other buy using the block of wood to tap on the boot flange itself. Also try clamping the vise grips on the top of the screw and using another to turn them.Keep at it and then get some allen head screws to replace them and torque them at 6 to 8 ft.lbs.As Dave said the wood trick will work!
 
My method

My method

The best way I have come across getting stubborn or stripped screws out is with a cold chisel. Go buy a small cold chisel and put it on the side of the head of the screw. Tap it a few times with a hammer to seat it and then give it a few whacks. This has worked nearly every time for me on my rusty car and worked beautifully for removing the screws holding the manifolds on my gs700. best part is its cheap and works places where you cant get an impact driver. Obviously screws are ruined after this, but phillips head screws in some place are just retarded so it for the best.
 
Try some penetrating oil or heat. Before attempting removal, try and tighten them a bit.

If you use the penetrating oil, be sure to let it sit for atleast 24 hours before attempting anything.

Brad bt
 
SUCCESS!!! They are all removed thanks to my handy needle nose vice grips. Thank you all for your suggestions.

The O-rings were flush with the metal, so probably not doing much. Also, when I removed them, they were very brittle. Probably have been there a long, long time.

Definately a PITA. But a good $4 repair.

Thanks again!

PS. There is nothing more satisfying than having the screw break loose!
 
Their probably the original O rings They should be replaced every 3-4 years
 
This is a great tip. I tried it, but it didn't work. Maybe my vice grips suck (they don't grip well and pop off when I tap it). I'll try some others. Thanks.

i had the same issue , with the carbs off the bike and gas tank off , i was able use large vice grips , got the screws off with no problems :-D
 
I had my dad put all his weight on pushing inward on the screws with a good fitting phillips, and then since the screwdriver had flats on each side 180 degrees apart. I put a cresent wrench on and turned while he put all his weight pushing inward. This is after we tapped each one with a hammer a few times. Seemed to work, and if you really need a boost, use the vice grip on the outside along with the phillips, although this requires 3 people.

Good Luck,
Nick

Edit, Oops, didnt see there was a second page :)

Well Done!
 
SUCCESS!!! They are all removed thanks to my handy needle nose vice grips. Thank you all for your suggestions.

The O-rings were flush with the metal, so probably not doing much. Also, when I removed them, they were very brittle. Probably have been there a long, long time.

Definately a PITA. But a good $4 repair.

Thanks again!

PS. There is nothing more satisfying than having the screw break loose!

IT WORKS...may be a crude way of getting it done, but it works!! \\:D/

HAPPY TO HEAR THE YOU "GOT ER DUN"!!
 
Did you really fix all 4 for $4.00. If you bought those O Rings at the hardware store and they are not rated for heat you will need to replace them again very soon. The OEM O Rings are a couple bucks each, that's why I was asking.
 
from sportlandmotorsports.com (also, my local parts dealer) they are $1.07 each. I also spent $2 on new bolts. So correction: just over $6.

Also, sportlandmotorsports.com has about the best prices I have found. They deliver, so everyone go buy stuff from them!
 
I wasn't able to swing a hammer far enough for the tool box impact wrench. I bought a 1/2" pneumatic impact wrench on Ebay. They all came off easily.
 
from sportlandmotorsports.com (also, my local parts dealer) they are $1.07 each. I also spent $2 on new bolts. So correction: just over $6.

Also, sportlandmotorsports.com has about the best prices I have found. They deliver, so everyone go buy stuff from them!

Glad you got them out. I used the needle nose vise grips on one screw on each, then used the wood block trick on the other. Thanks for the heads up on the parts place. They have the best prices I've seen so far. I think I'll give them a try.
 
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