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Hole in a gas tank

  • Thread starter Thread starter mash35231
  • Start date Start date
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mash35231

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What is the most effective way to repair a hole ( maybe .100 Inch diameter) in a gas tank?
 
Epoxy putty patch from outside.

Derust tank with Metal Prep (available at Home Depot). You will have to make plugs for the various openings.

Seal tank with Caswell Plating gas tank epoxy.
 
mash35231 said:
What is the most effective way to repair a hole ( maybe .100 Inch diameter) in a gas tank?
Click to expand...
Throw it out and get a good one ! this is the way I see things you can make hold gas again but is is safe ? (is the metal only week in one spot and are ya sure ) say low speed impact leaks 5 gallons spark if it does let loose, gas hot water heater or furnace in garage ! million of scenarios, cheep investment ! do it right the first time

ant
 
No need to trash it, in my humble opinion.

Remove the tank, drain it, allow to dry, flush with water, dry in a climate controlled area, and weld the small hole closed with a TIG or similar fashion. (TIG because it's easier. MIG will do just as well.)

Smooth over the small hole, and you're just as good as new.

Very important to remove all gasoline, vapor, and any other inflammable liquids from any area you plan to weld.
Do so in a well ventilated area, and use common sense.
 
MK3Brent said:
No need to trash it, in my humble opinion.

Remove the tank, drain it, allow to dry, flush with water, dry in a climate controlled area, and weld the small hole closed with a TIG or similar fashion. (TIG because it's easier. MIG will do just as well.)

Smooth over the small hole, and you're just as good as new.

Very important to remove all gasoline, vapor, and any other inflammable liquids from any area you plan to weld.
Do so in a well ventilated area, and use common sense.
Click to expand...
I here ya with the weld up theory if ya can do it your self. if ya cant you have to factor in the price if the cleaning solvent $12.00 labor in welding $50 to $150 tank sealant $35.00 paint and body work $100 to $500

ant
 
Nessism said:
Epoxy putty patch from outside.

Derust tank with Metal Prep (available at Home Depot). You will have to make plugs for the various openings.

Seal tank with Caswell Plating gas tank epoxy.
Click to expand...


Ed is speaking from good experience here, specifically to the type of hole that was described.
 
Anthony, the issue here is the rarity of these tanks. One makes do where possible, especially when funds are tight. Such is the way of the GSR.
I understand your point, but you must understand theirs as well.
The Caswell Plating gas tank epoxy will seal the ones that are on their way to becoming issues.
 
I had a similar problem. i removed the rust and then sealed the hole with brazing solder. i wanted something that was flexible and would expand at the same rate as the sheet metal so it wouldn't flake off over years of heat expansion/contraction. as long as you flux real well, it works great. i sealed the thing from the inside with caswell, and i'm in good shape:

8405290689_1de476f862.jpg


after the patch:

8406383994_1b1159e2e4_b.jpg


and sealed with caswell:

8405294045_ed25a88fcc_b.jpg
 
IF you actually READ the Caswell INSTRUCTIONS..you know he paper that tells you how to do it..you will see that they suggest these easy steps.

Derust and prep the tank
Cover holes with duct tape
install the liner kit and let cure
Remove the tape and skim fill the outer side of the hole with body filler
Its really just that easy and it will work on holes as large as 2 or 3 MM easily
You do not need to weld, braze, solder. or anything else if you just do what the instructions say
 
I emptied the gas tank in November. The hole is my fault...I was grinding the mounting away for the Suzuki badge. When I pulled the mounting off the tank the small plug where the tank/mount was spot welded came off with the mounting leaving a small diameter hole. The inside of the tank is rust free. The Casewell epoxy/liner sounds promising. I'll search where to purchase this product in the Dayton Ohio area.
 
Now that I know what the holes are, your golden with the duct tape and liner. Then once its cured well some bondo and youll never know it was there. I would also suggest ( sort of along Eds epoxy patch ) that you save just a bit of the resin and the hardner.

Once you remove the tape, you will have a little left to paste into the holes from the outside as well. Let that help plug the holes as well and then bondo and finish it off.


Side note..Let it lay on the sides for a few extra seconds as you roll the tank to let the liner migrate around..that way it will be a little thicker on the spots where the holes are.
 
Last edited:
chuck hahn said:
IF you actually READ the Caswell INSTRUCTIONS..you know he paper that tells you how to do it..you will see that they suggest these easy steps...

You do not need to weld, braze, solder. or anything else if you just do what the instructions say
Click to expand...

understood. just thought i'd contribute my experience.
 
Was directed as a general comment directed at the myth that smaller holes need to be welded and soldered and waste many hours of time when there is a fast and proven way to do it without all the extras.

dont get me wrong...its totally up to the individual if they want to go thru all the rigamaroll..but why?
 
i am not the most well coordinated man. i wanted a fix that would bend with the tank when i invariably dented it again. the experience i've had patching holes with epoxy and bondo has been mixed. it wasn't too hard, and i had the tools, so i went a step or two farther. at least this way, when i bang up my beautiful paint job, it wont leak on me. i think of it as idiot-proofing really.
 
If you bang it up youll most likely need to repaint anyway..right?


Well the liners are easily removed with MEK ( see the instructions ). You swish MEK around and it dissolves the epoxy and it rinses out.. Mind you, a few washes may be needed.

Once the liner is out, you can bump the dent and get it as good as possible, redo the liner, and repaint.
 
If his tank is as clean and rust free on the inside as he said, I would just braze up the hole and call it good. No need to reline the tank under those circumstances.
 
rustybronco said:
If his tank is as clean and rust free on the inside as he said, I would just braze up the hole and call it good. No need to reline the tank under those circumstances.
Click to expand...


I agree with Dale. Weld or braze the hole, then clean up the inside with Evaporust to remove any flash rusting or what have you. I would not line the tank just because of a mechanically induced hole. In fact, I've done exactly the same thing before when grinding off badge bars. Brazed the hole closed with a small patch and silver brazing compound because it's low heat.
 
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