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Honda R/R vs MOSFET R/R

  • Thread starter Thread starter payjay314
  • Start date Start date
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payjay314

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Hey GSers,

Anyways I'm asking you all for your opinions about what type of R/R I should go with. I've looked over all the major threads regarding this subject and concluded I have 2 options.

The first option: Use the common method of modding an old Honda R/R and installing it on my GS. Pros: This is a cheap (I'm on a budget so this is good) and common modification that most of you guys have done (I have plenty of help from you guys when I ask any questions about this mod). Cons: I feel uneasy swapping out a 30 year old R/R for another 30 year old R/R. I don't know it is just me, but doesn't that seem funny we are replacing an old unit for another old one. I know it is tried and tested, but who knows how long this R/R can last.

The second option: Install one of those modern MOSFET R/R (I think that is what it is called) from a newer superbike. Pros: The technology seems a little more modern/newer and efficient. Cons: These R/R's are a little more expensive and harder to come by on ebay in my opinion. I found a brand new one for 120 bucks, including the necessary connections to mod to my bike.

Should I bite the bullet and pay the extra money for some extra piece of mind or should I just go ahead and do the more common Honda R/R mod because it will work anyways with the possibly or replacing it sooner rather than later? I want to know what you guys think I should do?
 
Hi payjay, I think I'd go for the mofset in this duo. You can find them reasonably priced on ebay, around $40-$50. The other choice would be the Cycle Electric 601 series type, if you have room for it. They are designed for Harleys, but they will work for our bikes if you have room. I've seen some of them for less than a hundred on ebay for new regs. Just my two cents worth. Good luck with it. Ray
 
If you are only finding the MOSFET regulators for $120, you don't know where to shop.
noway.gif


HERE is one for $25 (plus $13 for shipping), HERE is another for $45( with free shipping), HERE is one for $48 (with free shipping), the list goes on. :p

And, ... if you would like a "plug-and-play" wiring solution to install that regulator, there is one available from Eastern Beaver.
.
 
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Hi,

Here's a list I found on some guy's website.

Compatible Stators and R/Rs

Ebay is a good place to shop, as Mr. Steve has pointed out. New is OK too, if you don't mind spending the money.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Grab one of those units linked by Steve. You can use regular spade terminals to attach wires to it.

BTW, Honda doesn't make R/R's, they buy them from Shindegen...which also makes those MOSFET units linked above. Honda still installs common shunting Shindegen R/R's on various models, so either way there is no need to buy a 30 year old R/R.
 
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Thanks for all the helpful responses. Yeah I looked all over ebay and I did find quite a few MOSFET type R/R for around 40-50 bucks, but when I mentioned finding a 120 buck unit, I was actually referring to a brand new unit. Sorry for the confusion. And yes I knew (from reading all those other posts) that R/R's were made by Shindegen and not Honda :)...I'll check out these links you guys posted, thanks!!!

I also took some pictures of my R and R (separate units) earlier today so you guys have a better look at my situation. There should not be any problems having separate units right?

DSC03884.jpg


DSC03883.jpg


DSC03888.jpg


DSC03887.jpg


DSC03886.jpg
 
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You can eliminate the seperate r/r and use a combined unit without any problems. Ray
 
After reading all the r/r related threads and corresponding with posplayer and others about their opinions and experience, I decided to bite the $100+ bullet and buy a new Series type CE601 off ebay for about $120. The additional peace of mind that its doubtful my charging system will ever let me down in the middle of nowhere was worth the extra $$ to me.
Good luck with whatever route you choose to go.
Willie
 
If you really want peace of mind get a series R/R, they don't stress your stator so much.
 
Haha, I clicked and bought the MOSFET one, but I'm having second thoughts now with you guys saying to go with the SERIES type R/R...Maybe I should email the seller and upgrade?
 
If you can do that, it would be a worthwhile upgrade.

I have been considering a series R/R for a while, but have been looking for a decent price. This one has really piqued my interest.

.
 
I was tempted to go the MOSfet route myself but bought a new Series type CE601 for the same price as their cheapest kit. I'm interested in learning if either of us has stator problems, who will be the 1st.
Willie
 
Haha, I clicked and bought the MOSFET one, but I'm having second thoughts now with you guys saying to go with the SERIES type R/R...Maybe I should email the seller and upgrade?

The COMPUFIRE is also Series but smaller to 40 amps.
 
Is this really the case? (*from that website listed above)

IMPORTANT!!! Series Regulators unload your stator but the heat has to go somewhere, the regulator is where it ends up!! These series regulators have to be in the airflow so get them out in front if you can. Don't put them under your seat or tail section they need cooling.

I thought the whole point of the series is that it switches off the stator so no current flow. If no current flow then why would there be more heat??
 
Is this really the case? (*from that website listed above)

IMPORTANT!!! Series Regulators unload your stator but the heat has to go somewhere, the regulator is where it ends up!! These series regulators have to be in the airflow so get them out in front if you can. Don't put them under your seat or tail section they need cooling.

I thought the whole point of the series is that it switches off the stator so no current flow. If no current flow then why would there be more heat??

I'm a little puzzled why they get so hot. I don't know how hot they get, just going by description. Apparently they get hotter than the switching shunt types. I'm wandering if they are a linear regulator, which would definately get hot. The manufacturers are tight lipped. I would expect them to be a switching regulator, some type of buck regulator, perhaps with syncronous or controlled rectifiers. This would definately run cooler than a linear regulator and perhaps cooler than a switching shunt regulator.
These may not be good for stators with marginal insulation, when you unload the stator, the voltage rises. If you have weak insulation this can cause dielectric breakdown in the form of arcing or leakage. Let us know how it works out.

BTW, Jet engines use the same type of alternator for FADEC power, only we call it a PMG (permanent magnet generator) and yes it is possible to manufacture reliable regulator systems for these, both shunt and series types.
 
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Is this really the case? (*from that website listed above)

IMPORTANT!!! Series Regulators unload your stator but the heat has to go somewhere, the regulator is where it ends up!! These series regulators have to be in the airflow so get them out in front if you can. Don't put them under your seat or tail section they need cooling.

I thought the whole point of the series is that it switches off the stator so no current flow. If no current flow then why would there be more heat??
Yes, I read that and was curious. Up thru 81, the headlight switch could disable one stator phase,which cuts stator output significantly- whereas current could normally flow A-B, B-A, A-C, C-A, B-C,C-B, if you open circuit phase C, then current can only flow A-B and B-A. Perhaps, the series regulators are duplicating this on/off switching feature thereby lowering stator current, but at the expense of lots of internal R/R heat that needs to be dissipated. I'm curious as to how hot a compufire series unit gets in comparison to this ebay seller's series unit.
 
It's a cycle electrics unit - there are a couple of people on here using them. The Compufire is slightly smaller & $20 or so more expensive. :)
 
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