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Honda Regulator/Rectifier

  • Thread starter Thread starter Thomas Kenny
  • Start date Start date
Mine is a R/R from a Goldwing. It has worked great for about 20 months.
 
Here's apic of my CBR1000RR unit with a case fan installed.
DSCN0077.jpg
 
Billy Ricks said:
Here's apic of my CBR1000RR unit with a case fan installed.
DSCN0077.jpg
Click to expand...

It looks good i'm glad i'm not the only one who is paranoid about overheating r/r's lol, hopefully the link to photobucket shows teh pic i put up.

I picked up the yellow and white wire today and i'll be wiring the first gear selector swicth to the fan in the morning. The neutral is done and working great.
 
http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t327/Magnafique100/Rectifierhookup2.jpg

Here is a photo of my hookup. Does it look correct? My battery is reading 12.8 volts static. With the ignition and lights on, engine not running I get 10.3 volts at the brake light switch. I started the engine and then grounded the green wire to the intended ground location and the lights got much brighter on the bike and then idle lowered a little. After about 20 second the ground wire got to hot to hold. I shut the engine off, hooked up the ground wire. Started engine. At 1100 rpm idle I get 14.2 volts, at 4,000 rpm I get about 16.3.???? Tom
http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t327/Magnafique100/Rectifierhookup2.jpg
 
Thomas Kenny said:
Here is a photo of my hookup. Does it look correct?
Click to expand...
Not really, but can't tell for sure. What is plugged in to the female connector of the black wire?

The black wire should be put into the tail light circuit or another 'switched' 12-volt source, like the brake wire or horn wire. It has a T-type connector so you can unplug the tail light under the seat, insert the black sense wire, then re-connect the tail light.

.
 
Good luck with those bullet connectors. I tried spade but they kept melting at the stator wires. I ended up soldering them. Problem solved.
 
My green ground wire was too short.

I soldered a longer piece of wire ( same guage thickness )to ground the green wire to the frame where the battery ground wire is- just under the rear suspension adjustment knob.

I hooked up the sense wire directly to the battery and this has worked fine.

At idle i get 12.5 volts to 13.5 volts

I get no more than 14.5 volts when driving at 3000 rpm.

At about 4000 or more rpm i got 15 volts

It has been noted by other members with the same result that the battery may be overcharged with the sense wire on the brake light.

Since there is higher resistance in the main harness the sense wire reads lower voltage and the r/r sends higher voltage to the battery to compensate.
 
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I noticed something last night. I have the Honda R/R mod. When I hit my brakes the headlight gets brighter. :D
 
There are options for installing the Honda RR sense wire, the vast majority of users have no problems with the tap off of the rear brake light switch. using a volt meter, if a big difference is noticed between the output of the red wire on the RR (not the battery) and the orange wire going to the switch, it would be best to determine why there is a large voltage drop. Power goes through the main fuse in the fuse box, over to the ignition switch, back to the fuse box and fuses, then to the wiring harness orange wires to power the bike. Older bikes have inline fuses but the path is basically the same.
 
The female black end is attached to the black wire that used to go to the old regulator. I don't have any tailight plugs under the seat of my GS550ES, at least that I can see. Thanks
 
Thomas Kenny said:
The female black end is attached to the black wire that used to go to the old regulator. I don't have any tailight plugs under the seat of my GS550ES, at least that I can see. Thanks
Click to expand...
You have the sense wire going to ground?
 
Sense wire to ground would cause +17 volts for sure.

Refer to the diagram below, find the orange wire that goes to the Rear brake light switch and tap into that.

HondaRRconnections-1.jpg
 
OK Duaneage, As I have the R/R hooked up right now, I have the three yellows plugged to the three yellows, the red to red, and the black wire female end plugged to the black/white wire from the old RR. The black male plug is not connected to anything yet. So you are telling me to hook this up to the orange/white wire from my tail light switch? If this is true I will do it but will have to splice in a piece of wire to reach my tail light switch wiring. I will await your reply before I touch anything. Thanks
 
Thomas Kenny said:
OK Duaneage, As I have the R/R hooked up right now, I have the three yellows plugged to the three yellows, the red to red, and the black wire female end plugged to the black/white wire from the old RR. The black male plug is not connected to anything yet. So you are telling me to hook this up to the orange/white wire from my tail light switch? If this is true I will do it but will have to splice in a piece of wire to reach my tail light switch wiring. I will await your reply before I touch anything. Thanks
Click to expand...
If you have a Honda R/R the green wire from the R/R is ground. This should go to the frame or the negative terminal of the battery. The Black wire from the unit needs to go to a switched (on with ignition switch) 12 volt live wire. I used the rear brake switch wire. Find the rear brake switch and follow the wire where it plugs into the harness. Make a Y by soldering two wires together in a shape of a Y. The bottom of the Y will plug into the black wire off the Honda R/R. The other two will plug into where you unplugged the brake switch from the harness.
If you bought this unit from duaneage he should of included the Y wire.
 
Thomas Kenny said:
So you are telling me to hook this up to the orange/white wire from my tail light switch? If this is true I will do it but will have to splice in a piece of wire to reach my tail light switch wiring. I will await your reply before I touch anything. Thanks
Click to expand...

Hook it to the Orange wire that feeds the brake light switch, it has 12 on it when the key turns on. Plug the other connector on the black wire into the switch to power the switch.
 
It looks like there's a common misperception about wire colors on Honda R/Rs: once and for all, the black wire is NOT ground. The GREEN wire goes to ground (like house wiring), and the black wire is the sense wire -- it goes to a switched positive.


I've found that the brake light switch wire almost always has very low voltage. It goes through a lot of connectors on the way, so it's often not the best choice for the sense wire, although it is the most convenient. Test this with a voltmeter before just plugging it in.

Probe some other wires -- there are better choices. On my GS850, I tapped into a switched wire near the fusebox, and frankly, I have no idea what it does. But it reads very close to battery voltage. The down side is that I had to do some extra soldering and heat shrinking to install a pigtail for the sense wire connection.

On a couple of other bikes, I've also installed a relay on the sense wire to ensure that it gets battery voltage. That also works very well as long as you use a decent relay.

On another note, a properly installed Honda R/R barely ever gets warm to the touch, so you do not need a fan.
 
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Ok, I ran a jumper from the Orange wire to the black sense wire, and the 10 amp fuse blew. My neighbor is running some checks on the diodes with his electronic equipment. It just may be that this one quit working. When I initially installed the unit taped the sense wire to the wiring without it being hooked up to anything, and the rectifier worked fine. Then it quit working and we can't seem to get it to regulate itself. I am still getting 16-17 volts at 4000 rpm and around 14.3-14.5 at 1100 rpm idle.

Tom
 
IF you connected the black wire to that black wire with the white stripe you effectively grounded the sense wire out. This would tell the RR it needs to up the voltage all the way because it thought there was no voltage on the bike. There is a chance the regulator did not survive this test intact.

Test the diodes first by connecting the red meter lead to the green and measuring each diode through the yellow wires. ALL wires should be disconnected from the bike.

Then put the black lead to the red and test all yellows again. Remember, nothing should be hooked to the bike.

You should read 500-530 ohms on each diode.

Next, measure the resistance between the green and the black. wire. Put the red lead to the green and black lead to black. SHould read around 1300 ohms (+- a few). Move the black meter lead to the read and it should read around 1000 ohms (+- a few). This checks the relative health of the regulator and all the RRs I come across measure the same (within a few ohms, obviously)

If you can't get normal readings on the regulator send me a PM. Meanwhile I am going to find a way to label the wires. I might put a length of orange wire on the black so it matches the feed to the rear brake light switch.

It's not easy supporting 10 years and 30 models of bikes, many I have never seen before. I just sent one to a GS300L, now that is a unique application.
 
Well then, where do I connect the black/white wire that used to go to my Suzuki R/R???? Do I just leave cut it off and tape it over????????
 
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