Hot R/R along with complete power loss (GS450E -82)

[Nessism]

During the early GS days, when bikes had a headlamp switch, Suzuki would disconnect one leg of stator power when the headlamp was turned off. I can't think of any reason you cannot do that now by yourself. That will reduce charging power, but you don't need all that power anyway if using LED's. I'd give it a try. Just use a shunt type R/R. Honda R/R's from the GS era were bulletproof. SH-232 Shindengen or similar. Super common, and cheap.

 

[ChickenStorm]

During the early GS days, when bikes had a headlamp switch, Suzuki would disconnect one leg of stator power when the headlamp was turned off. I can't think of any reason you cannot do that now by yourself. That will reduce charging power, but you don't need all that power anyway if using LED's. I'd give it a try. Just use a shunt type R/R. Honda R/R's from the GS era were bulletproof. SH-232 Shindengen or similar. Super common, and cheap.

Awesome! My bike funnily enough has a light switch but there doesn't seem to be any charging cutoff situation with it as far as I can tell. I'll try just popping one of the three stator wires out of the connector and test it out. Are you sure there won't be any issues with leaving it disconnected? I'll make sure to insulate the wire end properly.

 

[ChickenStorm]

Oh wait I'll be damned there actually is a wire going from the stator to the headlight switch! :highly_amused:

 

[ChickenStorm]

I might rewire that to make a sort of quickcharge switch or something with a hold down button if the battery seems empty, since the chinese gauge I'm using has a volt meter built in :-\\\

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I wonder what your Chinese volt meter would do if it received the +60Vac that the stator puts out. :-k

 

[ChickenStorm]

I wonder what your Chinese volt meter would do if it received the +60Vac that the stator puts out. :-k

That's a good question :worked_till_5am:, I was thinking of it more as a way to see if the battery needed some extra oomph

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Well if you run the wire from the stator to whatever, it's getting un-regulated, un-rectified AC Voltage. The R/R does the job of Rectifying the AC voltage to DC and regulating the output to no more than @ 14.5 or so volts that your bike's various circuits need to run and that your battery needs to charge.

In the original wiring, the one stator leg than runs through the headlight switch doesn't actually connect to anything there. If the light switch was off, that's where it stopped. If the light switch was On, those AC volts carried on the R/R to join the other 2.

 

[ChickenStorm]

My thought was to make a separate switch in place of the light switch for the same disconnecting function so that if my battery needs a little extra juice I could swich to three phase mode until it's topped up :cool-new:. The voltmeter in the gauge measures the potential from it's 12V supply so that the battery capacity can be monitored. Perhaps I'd use a button or switch that needs to be held down so it isn't forgotten and my stator cooks.

 

[salty_monk]

I don't see why that wouldn't help... It's better than nothing I guess. That was it's original purpose so that without the load of the headlight things didn't overheat.

 

[Grimly]

Why pyss around doing what the SH775 will do for you, automatically?
"Quick charge circuit", give me a break.