House of Kolor Brand paint

[Nessism]

Nessim showed a nice kZ750 with rattlecan HOK paint. How long as this paint been on the bike parts and how has it held up?

My KZ750 was painted as follows: all parts stripped down to bare metal (or plastic for the side covers and tail), Transtar epoxy primer used on the substrate, HOK basecoat next, followed by HOK clear coat. All materials were shot with a compressor driven spray gun.

That 66 Auto Color place specializes in packaging automotive basecoat inside a rattle can. Basecoat is not catalyzed so throwing it in a ratttlecan is no worry. They also sell the "Spraymax" line of rattlecan paints. These products are somewhat unique because they contain both a catalyst and the paint in the same spraycan. To use them you need to first rupture a membrane in the packaging separating the materials, followed by shaking like hell before spraying. In effect this stuff is two part paint that becomes mixed inside a rattle can right before you start spraying. Once you mix this paint you only have a limited amount of time to spray it before the paint starts to cure (inside the can or out). This type of paint has pretty good durability since it catalyzed. Spraymax sells both primers and clearcoats, all inside a rattlecan. The basecoat is the least important material as it related to durability since it's not catalyzed, but no worry, it doesn't need to be.

Hope this helps.

 

[80GS850GBob]

My KZ750 was painted as follows: all parts stripped down to bare metal (or plastic for the side covers and tail), Transtar epoxy primer used on the substrate, HOK basecoat next, followed by HOK clear coat. All materials were shot with a compressor driven spray gun.

That 66 Auto Color place specializes in packaging automotive basecoat inside a rattle can. Basecoat is not catalyzed so throwing it in a ratttlecan is no worry. They also sell the "Spraymax" line of rattlecan paints. These products are somewhat unique because they contain both a catalyst and the paint in the same spraycan. To use them you need to first rupture a membrane in the packaging separating the materials, followed by shaking like hell before spraying. In effect this stuff is two part paint that becomes mixed inside a rattle can right before you start spraying. Once you mix this paint you only have a limited amount of time to spray it before the paint starts to cure (inside the can or out). This type of paint has pretty good durability since it catalyzed. Spraymax sells both primers and clearcoats, all inside a rattlecan. The basecoat is the least important material as it related to durability since it's not catalyzed, but no worry, it doesn't need to be.

Hope this helps.

Good primer! Wow, just base and clear.....guess it depends on the paint in question - mine was stripped down {me}, {them from this point on}their primer, white base, color coat, then clears {2 down and 2 over decals, if memory serves}. $200 my cost at the time...which was long ago.

 

[geol]

Thanks Nessism, Great explanation. I have rattle canned bikes in the past when I was younger and poorer and the result was often a bike that looked great for about a month then the paint started getting mucked up. A couple drops of gas or a slight nick and it was time to re-Krylon. I have a couple paint guns (touch up and larger) strainers and stuff but never had a great touch with the guns. I generally do best when I mix and then shoot a trash can. Most GOOD painters have a sense of how thick they can shoot a specific paint; I don't. I guess you can get better if you practice but I lack the patience to practice. The rattle can catalyzed paint is very likely to be far less expensive than buying a pint of base and clear of a better paint like HOK. I may give it a try on my current project.

BTW: I do know about prep and while I lack patience, can do it proper in a pinch. The prep won't affect paint hardening properly if it is done without hardener like a can of Walmart Krylon spray paint. Regular spray paint won't be durable on a bike no matter how much wet sanding, tack cloth wiping and adhesion promoter you daub on.

 

[geol]

My KZ750 was painted as follows: all parts stripped down to bare metal (or plastic for the side covers and tail), Transtar epoxy primer used on the substrate, HOK basecoat next, followed by HOK clear coat. All materials were shot with a compressor driven spray gun.

That 66 Auto Color place specializes in packaging automotive basecoat inside a rattle can. Basecoat is not catalyzed so throwing it in a ratttlecan is no worry. They also sell the "Spraymax" line of rattlecan paints. These products are somewhat unique because they contain both a catalyst and the paint in the same spraycan. To use them you need to first rupture a membrane in the packaging separating the materials, followed by shaking like hell before spraying. In effect this stuff is two part paint that becomes mixed inside a rattle can right before you start spraying. Once you mix this paint you only have a limited amount of time to spray it before the paint starts to cure (inside the can or out). This type of paint has pretty good durability since it catalyzed. Spraymax sells both primers and clearcoats, all inside a rattlecan. The basecoat is the least important material as it related to durability since it's not catalyzed, but no worry, it doesn't need to be.

Hope this helps.

You didn't mention the stripes on your KZ. Are they vinyl tape stripes or decals? My experience with painting over decals is somewhat frustrating and tape is far less fussy to topcoat in my experience for the non-skilled painter (such as myself).

 

[Nessism]

You didn't mention the stripes on your KZ. Are they vinyl tape stripes or decals? My experience with painting over decals is somewhat frustrating and tape is far less fussy to topcoat in my experience for the non-skilled painter (such as myself).

If you want to see the process I used check the build thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...saki-KZ750-Resurrection&p=2079252#post2079252

 

[geol]

I was going to read that whole thread but I tend to doze after reading for more than 15 minutes bwhwhahah... So it was tape stripes! You did a nice job with the KZ... I have had mixed luck with Wiseco pistons, by the way. I had a 1996 VN1500A and they were prone to piston rocking from the factory which meant blowby on many of the A models after 10K miles or so. Since the bores were a bit out of round, oversized pistons had to be used so I went Wiseco and the area between rings crumbled on one piston after a few thousand miles. I also didn't like the higher compression as the Vulcan has very shallow combustion chambers and the bike would ping on anything under 93 octane with the spark retarded using a Dyna 2000. The bike did have more pep. WHen the Wiseco piston failed, I rebuilt again using oversized Nomad pistons which never were prone to the rocking. AND I was back on regular gas.