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How do I get to this leak?

glib

glib

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
I have a leak right here:



Of all places. It couldn't just be a valve cover gasket. I've never taken one of these motors apart but I'm guessing this is gonna be a pain...and it's hard to ignore because it leaks, albeit slowly, right on to the exhaust.
 
Is that the crank case or the oil pan? Nevermind...it's the crank case. That's a top end job right there.

I've done a valve cover gasket but haven't had to replace that gasket. That stinks.


Ed
 
Is that the head gasket? If so just re-torque the head. Loosen all the bolts then torque them back down in sequence adding 5lb/ft to factory recommended torque just for good measure. Doing this sealed up weepy head gaskets on both her 750 and my 850.
 
ShadowFocus603 said:
Is that the head gasket? If so just re-torque the head. Loosen all the bolts then torque them back down in sequence adding 5lb/ft to factory recommended torque just for good measure. Doing this sealed up weepy head gaskets on both her 750 and my 850.
Click to expand...

It's the case gasket--same level as the crankshaft. Tried tightening the bolt by the leak and it may have helped but did not eliminate it.
 
Looks like a case half to me, re torquing might help, if not....well, have you ever split the cases.

V
 
gustovh said:
Looks like a case half to me, re torquing might help, if not....well, have you ever split the cases.

V
Click to expand...

Nope, never have. I've had the head off--different bike--but that's as far as I've gotten.
 
I would go easy on the bolt tightening for fear of stripping the threads.

If the leak is truly from there then you have to split the cases.
 
Had to go look at mine. Got a little wet spot on the other side. The other side dont have that threaded tab, ear thingy. Mines minor.....not gonna sweat it.
 
Splitting the cases is easy, you don't have to remove the head and cylinders. Flip the engine upside down and take the lower case off.
 
I that's the head gasket I would do the same as everyone else said. Take your valve cover off and torque down the head again maybe 5-10 ft lbs over spec. Head gaskets don't really get "smashed" as easy as soft gaskets like the valve cover gasket do. Gotta be really carefull with over-torquing those. But anyways, if the leak still persists after torquing tighter, it's honestly not that hard to change. I've never wrenched on anything in my life until my GS750 this winter. Replace both head gasket and valve cover gasket, both were leaking pretty bad. With no prior mechanical experience I just followed my clymers step by step and everything went smoothly and it runs great again. Putting your timing chain back on it the right position. Quadruple check it before you put ot back together. I almost put my valve cover back on with it being a half link out but a buddy made me check one last time before putting it on and boy did that save me quite a headache.
 
I did as Tom said years ago on my 1100e, a fairly simple task if the motor is out, as mine happened to be. My 1150 leaks there also..... and will continue to do so....
 
tkent02 said:
Splitting the cases is easy, you don't have to remove the head and cylinders. Flip the engine upside down and take the lower case off.
Click to expand...

That is a relief. For a minute I thought it was going to be a top down job.
 
dorkburger said:
I did as Tom said years ago on my 1100e, a fairly simple task if the motor is out, as mine happened to be. My 1150 leaks there also..... and will continue to do so....
Click to expand...

I wouldn't mind just wiping it down after a ride but when it drips, it's right on the exhaust and the smell is not acceptable.
 
I have heard of old mechanics plugging up pcv and vacuum ports on automotive engines, rigging up a shop vac to the oil fill, and putting the crankcase into a vacuum. Then spraying off the leaking area (timing cover, lower intake valley, etc) with brake clean letting it get sucked in to clean oil residue away. Once clean, they would apply rtv or engine sealant to area, which would get sucked in also, then removing vacuum. I haven't seen it in practice but a co-worker of mine told me about this and says he has done this with success to a few engines. I'm not sure if this would work for your problem but if it doesn't then you just have to split the cases, same place you are in now.
 
gcall07 said:
I have heard of old mechanics plugging up pcv and vacuum ports on automotive engines, rigging up a shop vac to the oil fill, and putting the crankcase into a vacuum. Then spraying off the leaking area (timing cover, lower intake valley, etc) with brake clean letting it get sucked in to clean oil residue away. Once clean, they would apply rtv or engine sealant to area, which would get sucked in also, then removing vacuum. I haven't seen it in practice but a co-worker of mine told me about this and says he has done this with success to a few engines. I'm not sure if this would work for your problem but if it doesn't then you just have to split the cases, same place you are in now.
Click to expand...

Cool idea!
 
bonanzadave said:
Dumb question....could you then remove the crankshaft ?
Click to expand...

Not with the cam chain still attached.

I suppose if the cams were out, you pull the crank, rods, and pistons out from the bottom, but why? Sell parts on ebay maybe.

If you do split the cases ThreeBond 1211 is great case half sealant. About 20 bucks for a tube, lasts a long time.

Don't forget the bolt tightening sequence and the plates behind the clutch basket.

Might need a new oil pan gasket or crankshaft end seals.
 
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