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how do you maintain front nitrogen filled forks? and other spring service

  • Thread starter Thread starter kilog55
  • Start date Start date
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kilog55

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how do you do service the nitro forks? do you need to do anything special? mine do not leak or anything i just dont want to over look anything

i just got done flushing the brakes with fresh fluid cause the rear was very rusty i got most of the rust out only a trace remains in the resv. front was rusty a bit as well. hope i did the rears right cause i bled the inner one first then the outer. and the fronts i did the clutch side first then throttle side. is this right does it matter?

i also changed my plugs with BR8ES's the old ones were black and soaked with gas it wasnt running very well/
 
When you bleed brakes, always start with the one closest to the master cylinder first.
 
Funny.. I was always taught to start with furthest away first :D

It doesn't really matter, I always go over them twice anyway so they end up being bled both ways.

Dan :)
 
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salty_monk said:
Funny.. I was always taught to start with furthest away first :D

It doesn't really matter, I always go over them twice anyway so they end up being bled both ways.

Dan :)
Click to expand...
You were taught wrong. :p Get your money back. :)
 
in a automotive setting you always do the furthest away so i assumed it was teh same for a bike makes sense to me anyways. :confused:
 
kilog55 said:
in a automotive setting you always do the furthest away so i assumed it was teh same for a bike makes sense to me anyways. :confused:
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Closest even in automotive. Why remove air from the furthest when you might have some that will make it's way down the line again. Start with the closest and make your way back.

Anyway, that's how I was taught even though you'll see it done both ways. I've never had a problem and don't need to go over it more than once.
 
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Yep.. that's where I'm getting my info from too - automotive. Thought maybe it was coming from the other side of the world... (Americans do everything the wrong way, can't even drive on the right side of the road.... :lol: ) :D

Filling the forks with Nitrogen sounds a bit "hi tech" for an 82 GS850L - let me give you a hint - you could fill them with Kryptonite gases, it still won't go round corners! :D
Seriously, air from an ordinary pump will do or better still get some progressive springs & do away with the air altogether - that's the best option.

You should probably pop the pistons out of the calipers & check for rust & clean out any crud in there if they are that bad & also replace the lines with some braided ones (scale collects in the lines, you new fluid will be filthy again in about a week).

Dan :)
 
salty_monk said:
Yep.. that's where I'm getting my info from too - automotive. Thought maybe it was coming from the other side of the world... (Americans do everything the wrong way, can't even drive on the right side of the road.... :lol: )

Filling the forks with Nitrogen sounds a bit "hi tech" for an 82 GS850L - let me give you a hint - you could fill them with Kryptonite gases, it still won't go round corners! :D
Seriously, air from an ordinary pump will do or better still get some progressive springs & do away with the air altogether - that's the best option.

You should probably pop the pistons out of the calipers & check for rust & clean out any crud in there if they are that bad & also replace the lines with some braided ones (scale collects in the lines, you new fluid will be filthy again in about a week).

Dan :)
Click to expand...
I just did a search on brake bleeding and found that most reccomend starting witht he furthest and working to the closest. Maybe I should get my money back. :)

Anyway, it's always made sense to me to eliminate the air from the closest to the furthest.
 
reddirtrider said:
I just did a search on brake bleeding and found that most reccomend starting witht he furthest and working to the closest. Maybe I should get my money back. :)

Anyway, it's always made sense to me to eliminate the air from the closest to the furthest.
Click to expand...

The books and manuals are right, bleed the furthest first...the goal is to get rid of majority of the air first so it doesn't work it's way around the system.
 
yeah you would think thats the way you should do it but i guess if there is air or moisture in the lines you would go to the farthest one so it doesnt get back in them???


but yeah i need rear shoes and probly fronts kinda hard to see at the angle of the fronts

for the fronts since i have dual calipers i need to order 2 sets of front pads right?

i dunno the sticker said they are nitrogen filled so i wasnt sure if i had to do anything they have nice dampening and rebound and no visible oil leaks

i cant ride till mid august silly me dropped the insurance and never sent the tags in so they are under a 90 day susp which sucks cause the rest of the week is gonna be really nice ill just have to take the t-tops out of the stang lol
 
If they aint broke... don't fix them :D

Yes, you'll need 2 sets of pads. About $40.

Dan
 
yeah thats what i thought any benefit to using performance pads like EBC kevlar ones or vesrah carbon ones? or not really needed
 
Anything you can do to improve the brake performance on these old bikes is a bonus....

I run Twinpot calipers from a Kwasaki Ninja... that helps a lot! :lol:
 
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