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How hard is it REALLY?

  • Thread starter Thread starter gonzo
  • Start date Start date
G

gonzo

Guest
I have a 1978 GS 1000 E. . .

Its plagued with fuel system problems, mainly I have the number 1 carb dripping gasoline when the bike is off, and my oil smells like gas.

I have No garage, No mechanical experience - but an insane love for my first bike that I got about 2 years ago.

How hard is it really to clean/rebuild the carbs and rebuild a petcock if you have no experience or help?

I plan on replacing my jets because my bike has NO airbox and filter, instead each carb has its own. I recently found out that I'll need new jets to get it to run with peak performance.

Would I be better off taking it somewhere to have them do it for me?

I tried that route once, spent about $300 only to have the same fuel problem pop up again about 8 months later.
 
get the service manual first. there are a couple of places you can download it from. i've left some previous posts on where to get it from. not at home, don't have the links on the work computer. then go from there. few tols and patience, ask questions on this forum. search and you should be able to find the links here.
 
I have A service manual, and for carbs it says not to mess with them because they require delicate tuning. . .

Figures. . . the one problem I have and it says dont mess with it.

I have the pdf file of the carb breakdown that is here on the site, should that be enough?
 
which manual? and the carb rebuild series on this site is great info. you can tear into them. just take your time, research this site. get the rebuild kits. i've got a 79 gs1000e i'm working on slowly, as i also have a 1100L that i ride now. theres plenty of great help here.
 
I have the Haynes repair manual. Its pretty good. . . cept for the carb section.

I want to get some jets from:
http://www.dynojet.com/jetkits/motorcycle/suzuki.aspx#1000

Unless you guys have a better place. . . I was just told that because I have a filter per each carb that I HAD to get these if I want it to run correctly.

I was going to get the O-rings from:
http://cycleorings.com/

Because everybody on the forum says they're the best.

And I was thinking about some new gaskets, but everybody says that old bike barn sucks. So I'm not sure WHERE to get those.

How do you disassemble the petcock without fuel spilling everywhere? If I have to drain the fuel tank - GREAT, but what's the best way?:-s
​
 
It's dead easy, especially with the help of the Carb Cleanup Series from this site.

Too many people, including mechanics who should know better, have an unreasoning fear of carbs. If you can pay attention, you can rebuild your carbs. If you can't pay attention, you could go work on customer bikes in just about any motorcycle dealership. An attentive owner will outperform a professional half-stoned wrench twiddler every time.

All you need are float bowl gaskets and a set of o-rings. Don't get carb rebuild kits -- they are expensive, incorrect junk most of the time. You may also need to replace intake boots and/or o-rings -- check these while the carbs are off.
A few sources for float bowl gaskets:
http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/
http://www.z1enterprises.com/

You can also just order them from any Suzuki dealer or Flat Out in Indy:
http://flatoutmotorcycles.com/fiche_select.asp


Remember not to get any carb cleaner (spray or dip) on any plastic or rubber parts. Too many people just start spritzing assembled carbs and end up damaging floats and seals. Sea Foam is safe on the rubber and plastic in carbs, if you need to clean these materials.

The petcock rebuild kits are also junk -- just get a whole new petcock and forget about the petcock problem for another 20 years. They're maybe $40 - $60:
http://flatoutmotorcycles.com/fiche_select.asp

To change it, simply drain the tank at least halfway (use the prime position on the petcock and a bit of spare fuel line attached to the larger outlet) into a gas can. Tilt the tank on its side, so the gas runs away from the opening, unbolt the old petcock, and replace.
 
One other thought is that the failed "rebuild" may have been done with the junk parts from a rebuild kit, specifically the pilot and main jets and the idle screw. You may need to post pictures here or find an experienced person to ask to find out if the jets are original.

If not, you can order OEM jets from Suzuki or, if you need different sizes, from many other suppliers.
 
I thought that I would need different - NON STOCK - Jets because my air intake system has been modified? Is this incorrect information?
 
Good advice above.
Gonzo, if possible, let me know what kind of pods they are and if your exhaust is stock. Also, what's your elevation? Any other issues at all? What's the recent history of the bike? Sitting a long time? Smoking at all, etc?
I'll put in my two cents about what jetting you need later tonight if still interested.
 
Most newbies don't go far enough when cleaning the carbs. For example, they pull the float bowls but are afraid to fully disassemble and dip. It's critical to completely remove ALL parts from the carbs and seperate them from the gang. The O-rings are critical to replace since they harden with age - including the O-rings connecting the carbs to one another. Another area that people often don't properly attend to is cleaning the pilot circit. The jet orifice is super small on these and even a small obstruction will effect the function of the carbs. The whole job is simple as long as the person takes their time and does a complete job. Sometimes things just don't go as planned though. Examples are jets/screws with stripped heads. It's critical to not butcher the heads on these parts or you will have a hard time later. Use a high quality screw driver that fits the head of the screws properly. If things are not going well, stop and report back here. Some one will assist with advice.

Good luck.
 
Last edited:
DUDE- THERE IS A MANUAL ON SELL on EBAY for $5 right now.
I just saw it............

\\:D/
 
gonzo said:
I have a 1978 GS 1000 E. . .

Its plagued with fuel system problems, mainly I have the number 1 carb dripping gasoline when the bike is off, and my oil smells like gas.

I have No garage, No mechanical experience - but an insane love for my first bike that I got about 2 years ago.

How hard is it really to clean/rebuild the carbs and rebuild a petcock if you have no experience or help?

I plan on replacing my jets because my bike has NO airbox and filter, instead each carb has its own. I recently found out that I'll need new jets to get it to run with peak performance.

Would I be better off taking it somewhere to have them do it for me?

I tried that route once, spent about $300 only to have the same fuel problem pop up again about 8 months later.
Click to expand...

1) Go on eBay and get the stock aribox/filter back on the bike.
2) I am in the same boat with the same experience as you. I am doing it now and it really really really is very simple. Follow the instructions from http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm keep track of your parts and you will have no trouble at all. All you really need is o-rings and gaskets. I am worried about balancing and bench syncing soon but I am sure once I get there it will be just as strait forward. If you have any problems or questions take a pic and post, someone here will always help you out. Great site!
 
gonzo said:
I thought that I would need different - NON STOCK - Jets because my air intake system has been modified? Is this incorrect information?
Click to expand...

True.

You should make sure you get new jets actually made by the carb manufacturer (Mikuni or Keihin -- I can't remember which you'd have).
 
So much great advice. . . where to begin?

Sorry about the long delay in responding, I was out all weekend at my National Guard weekend drill.

NOW

I'm not sure what kind of air filters I have for my Mikuni carbs, unfortunately 2 of them are K&N, the other 2 are some kind of knockoff. I'll have to replace those anyway.

The bike smokes for a brief minute, but only when I start it up, and you wont see it unless you're really looking for it. It'll smoke longer if its been sitting a long time though.

Im pretty sure the exhaust is stock, it doesnt look special or anything.

The bike was originally purchased, and driven about 23K miles in about 3 years. It was sold to the person I bought it from, and he rode it for about 8K miles before he bought a Harley. He put the bike in his garage, and plain old forgot about it. It sat there about 15 years or so until I bought it in 2004. He sold his house, and when he was cleaning out his garage. . . "oh wow, I have a bike here." As a coworker, he knew I was wanting to buy one to have a second mode of transportation. He cleaned it up, re did the gas tank and flushed the fuel system . . . and it WORKED! I rode it to my house, and it died about 2 weeks later from the stator - sound familiar anybody? I put some money into it, the carbs were cleaned - tuned, and the stator was replaced.

Now the carbs are acting up again.

I have no center stand, only a side stand. I read on another post that the center stand can help some times if it sits for a while.

I love my bike, its my first and I dont EVER want to get rid of it. Now, it has about 34K miles on it.
 
With your last post, I strongly suggest a complete rebuild of the carbs. As has already been stated, remove all plastic and rubber parts, and dip each body as shown in the rebuild section found on the GSR homepage. And just t0 ease your mind a bit, I followed the same instructions when rebuilding my 1100's carbs. It's a not as intimidating as it seems. A great piece of advice is to disassemble one carb at a time. As you put one back together, take the next one apart.

You can do it!:-D

Brad bt
 
Re-jetting isn't that hard. But it may take some work.
You can always go back to a stock airbox if you're happy with the stock performance.
You should decide what you want, the stock box or buy two more K&N filters. If you keep the pods, don't mix them. All four must be K&N's.
One thing that will possibly complicate the re-jet is that if you run pods with what you say is the stock exhaust, then there's no jet kit for you. A stage 1 kit isn't for use with pods and a stage 3 kit isn't for use with a stock pipe. So we'd have to guess and buy separate Mikuni mains, possibly pilot jets and possibly adjust the stock jet needles position. It can be guessed at first try, but may take a few. If the jet needles need further adjustments, then you have to pull the throttle shaft and re-position the jet needle e-clips, then bench and vacuum synch again. The mains and pilots are easy to change by just removing the bowls, carbs on the bike.
I have some jetting suggestions if you want to run pods. Include your elevation. Be prepared for some tinkering.
If you decide on the stock airbox, then just verify with us what size mains you have (should be #95) and inspect and let us know what position (groove) the jet needle e-clip is at, counting down/from the top of the jet needle. The stock position is the 3rd groove down (middle). The two plastic factory jet needle spacers need to be in correct order too. The thicker spacer goes directly on top the e-clip, the thinner goes directly under the clip. The pilot jets should be #15. Set floats at .94". Then initially set the pilot fuel screws (underneath) to approx' 3/4 to 1 full turn from LIGHTLY seated and set the side air screws to 1 3/4 turns out. Bench synch must be followed by a vacuum synch. At that time, you'll fine tune the side air screws and fine tune the pilot fuel screws with some road testing. Remember the ignition timing must be correct and if you have points, they must be in good condition and their dwell set before the vacuum synch. Valve clearances should be set too before the vacuum synch (more work/not trying to discourage you). If the bike is in otherwise good tune, the above jetting info will be good and the only possible tinkering will be the screws.
As others have suggested, clean/rebuild your VM's and buy Robert Barrs o-ring kit. Then buy some new bowl and top cover gaskets. I also suggest new manifold o-rings (installed with a coating of hi-temp bearing grease) and be sure the manifolds are in good condition. The manifold o-rings are cheap and it's a mistake to ignore them when you already have the carbs out. At this time, replace any stock Phillips manifold screws with Allens so you can correctly torque the manifold to 6 ft/lb. More work and $ I know, but trust us on this.
Only other issue is that leaking carb you have. It could be just some dirt particle interfering with the float valve tip. It could also be the float not operating correctly. It could be the float valve seat needs a new fiber gasket. It could be the valve itself. If the valve is worn around its tip or the spring is weak, it must be replaced. Let us know what you find.
Follow that VM carb series exactly. Read all the info before you start the job and review as you go along. It's very good info and the author allowed me to review it before it was completed. If something worries you, ask first before doing something you don't feel right about.
 
You're a newbie, so do yourself a huge favor and get a stock airbox/filter and avoid MANY hours of frustration trying to get the jetting right. Use stock everything and make sure there are NO air leaks anywhere.
All the above advice about thoroughly cleaning the carbs is right-on.
 
Fuel Problems

Fuel Problems

HI,GONZO ,I USED TO HAVE A 79 850G WITH SIMULAR PROBLEMS,IT'S TRUE ABOUT THE PETROL TAP REPAIR KIT GET ANOTHER, MY LEAKING TAP WAS NOT LEAKING EXTERNALY BUT DRIPPING INTO THE CARSBS SO FLOODING ONE OR TWO OF THE CARBS THE CARBS FLOOD BECAUSE OF INCORRECT FLOAT LEVELS (or punctured floats) AND ALSO THE NEEDLE JET DEVELOPS WEAR IN THE FORM OF A GROOVE WHERE IT'S BEEN SEATING, I PUT AN IN-LINE SMALL TAP AFTER THE PETROL TAP (i had to keep remembering to turn it back on) THIS HELPS A LITTLE ESPECIALLY UNTILL YOU CAN SORT IT OUT PROPERLY.THE NEEDLE.MY BIKE HAD DIFFERENT CARBS TO THE ONES FEATURE IN THE CARB CLEAN UP . I'VE FOLLOWED THIS AS I'M WORKING ON MY GK1100.
 
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