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How I will be spending my long 4th of July "weekend"

  • Thread starter Thread starter bbytes
  • Start date Start date
Plus you can use the left over dip to strip grease, paint and crud off of many other items. Of course, I'm not sure I'd use mine on another set of carbs after all that, but regardless...it's well worth the money and does the best job.
 
So I took your advice. I bought the big gallon can of Berryman's and the O-rings from www.cycleorings.com. I am using this guide. I got the first carburetor done. Here is a picture of it next to the third one (which I haven't started yet).

rY3rU.jpg


I know this is just an exterior shot, but the Berryman's stuff is really proving itself with just this shot.

One thing I noticed when putting the first one back together though. The pilot fuel screw looks to be a bit dull on the end. When I took apart the second carb, I noticed that one was very sharp looking. I suppose I should replace the one in the first carb (the one part that wasn't in my K&L rebuild kit). Could this be the reason my bike has trouble idling? I don't notice any other issues than it having a hard time idling.

The other thing I noticed, is that whoever did the carbs last, didn't remove the old gaskets. There were two gaskets on each carb. One really old, difficult to remove gasket, and another somewhat newer, slightly easier to remove gasket. Obviously, I removed both before putting the new gaskets on, but I thought it was funny to share.
 
Last edited:
So it turns out that the 4th carb had a bad pilot fuel screw as well. Here it is next to the good one from the 3rd carb.

IRtkx.jpg


Anyone have a part number for these? I cant make heads or tails of the parts diagram on Suzuki websites. It's just not good enough quality to see what the parts are, and their numbers. Or if there is another company that makes them, I wouldn't mind.
 
This would be a great thread to illustrate why carb "rebuild" kits aren't enough, not to mention that they aren't really even the right parts to freshen carbs. Glad you were able to let yourself be steered in a different direction, and you will have an awesome running bike as a result. As long as the tank and carbs are off, are you going to check/adjust your valves as well?
 
Check the pilot fuel passages to make sure they aren't blocked with broken tips. If clear, Z1 has fuel screws that are easier to use than stock.
 
cableguy said:
As long as the tank and carbs are off, are you going to check/adjust your valves as well?
Click to expand...

Probably not right now. This is my daily rider, so I need to get the carbs back on. It's not like taking the tank or the carbs off is really that hard. Plus, I don't have the parts to do an adjustment on the valves right now

MisterCinders said:
Check the pilot fuel passages to make sure they aren't blocked with broken tips. If clear, Z1 has fuel screws that are easier to use than stock.
Click to expand...

When you say they are easier than stock, what exactly do you mean?

I also dont see any for my bike. They have them for the larger GS bikes, but they don't say GS550 on them.
http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=4743
 
bbytes said:
Plus, I don't have the parts to do an adjustment on the valves right now ...
Click to expand...
That's OK, when you do get around to checking your valves, you STILL won't have the parts you need. :p

Until you open up the top of the engine, measure your clearances AND see what size shims you have, you won't know what to order, except for the obvious valve cover gasket.

While you have your carbs off is the perfect time to check your valves. If you have each carb in the dip for a day, it's going to take four days, overall. If you had checked your valves on the first day, after getting the first carb in the dip, you would have received your new gasket and any shims that you need from Z1 by the time you got your carbs back together.

As MisterCinders said, check the pilot passages in your carbs to make sure the broken tips are not stuck in there.

Check your valves, make ONE order to Z1 that includes valve cover gasket, shims and pilot needles, pay just ONE shipping charge.
icon_shrug.gif


.
 
Which carburetors does my bike have? Looks a lot like the Mikuni VM29 smoothbore ones.
 
Anything I can do to get it to run (even poorly) until I can get the new screws? Right now it just pours gas out of the 4th carb overflow. I use this bike to get to work, and I may have to hitch a ride with a friend if I cant get it to work, but I'd rather it just work, even if it doesn't work well.
 
bbytes said:
Anything I can do to get it to run (even poorly) until I can get the new screws? Right now it just pours gas out of the 4th carb overflow. I use this bike to get to work, and I may have to hitch a ride with a friend if I cant get it to work, but I'd rather it just work, even if it doesn't work well.
Click to expand...

You can get them ok(ish) with busted fuel screws but if she's leaking out of the #4 overflow that needs sorting - else you might find yourself on fire and petrol burns pretty quickly..... Either a stuck float valve, incorrectly adjusted float valve, crap in the float valve needle seat or a worn float valve needle.
 
The float valve is the thing that looks like a tiny dreidel right? I didn't notice any way to adjust it.

Should I just replace it with one from my carb rebuild kits?
 
bbytes said:
The float valve is the thing that looks like a tiny dreidel right? I didn't notice any way to adjust it.

Should I just replace it with one from my carb rebuild kits?
Click to expand...

Dreidel = Yiddish spinning top? If so that's the thing. The manual shows you how to adjust float height.
 
Looks like I just bend the float arm until it is at 26mm? Can I just use my precision calipers to check this height?
 
Looks like the 4th carb had a stuck float valve needle and the floats were set at 20mm not 26mm. I opened them all, and set them to 26mm. Most of them were at 22mm. No more gas leaks!

I put the carbs back on the bike, and even with the broken fuel screws, it runs much better than before. I still cant find the proper screws online though. Maybe I'll call Z1 tomorrow and see if they can help.

Anyway, thanks with this so far. I plan to do a lot more to the bike once I have a garage I can work with (2 weeks from now). I'm sure I'll have problems for you guys to help me solve then :)
 
BTW, where do I hook up a manometer to the carburetors to do a sync?
 
OK. So do I need an adapter to screw into those holes to be able to get the manometer hoses on it?
 
What are you using Bbytes? A carbtune or something else?

Yes there are adapters for them and you can find them on Z1's website (when it comes back up if it's still down).
 
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