Admiral Beez
Forum Mentor
How hard of a project is that? My mind exaggerates the complexity of wiring. I assume my 1982 GS650G has the same issues.
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That is very easy - Just follow the 3 wires out of the stator, 2 go directly to the r/r, 1 goes into a wire that I believe is white with green stripe, to handlebar light switch, and then back down & to the r/r on a white/yellow stripe wire or white/blue stripe?? Or vice-versa.
Just disconnect the striped wires, and hook the 3rd stator leg direct to the r/r same as the others.
I myself personally would not be very inclined to run the stock r/r after doing this however, it may be best suited to a minimum of upgraded wiring (posplayr GS Charging System Health rr/battery rewiring diagram, & posplayr's single point ground conversion) & a newer mosfet switching rr, definitely best with the wiring upgrades AND a series switching r/r like the SH775 or the newer SH8##(?) VSTROM Shindengen series switching units.
The original 1970's thinking was that if the headlight/taillight was not being used (biggest power consumption on the bike), then why bother generating more power to just have to send STRAIGHT to ground to regulate (i.e. stator always running full load and very hot) - just unhook the one stator leg via the headlight switch, then only 66.666% of the stator is running full load. Great in theory, terrible in the long term due to the excess added wiring length and several connectors and switch contacts in this loop, which really can add a lot of resistance when the connections get dirty and corroded and old and worn and loose... then you have the heat and melting issues...
The full load thing comes from the old shunt and even the newer MOSFET r/r operation. They shunt style forces a switch open to send the generated A.C. voltage straight to ground when the system is above 14.5 volts or so. MOSFET works the same way but more efficient faster switching via higher tech components that are powered independently. Still, regulation occurs by sending all excess a.c. voltage straight to ground, so the stator is always at full load.
Series switchmode rr's are more advanced and similar to a mosfet, but to regulate output down to a max of 14.5 volts, they actually just unhook the stator output wires at very rapid cycles to regulate the voltage output, similar to the light switch unhooking the one leg of the stator. The shunt and mosfet types short circuit the excess a.c. stator output straight to ground, which makes the stator run at full load ALWAYS and makes it run hot, but the series is more advanced and is able to just unhook the bike wiring load from the stator output at rapid cycles, so it does nor run at full lpad, only at the load being consumed by the bike. A brilliant advancement in technology...
Also, the early GS's were FAR WORSE EVEN, as the regulator and rectifier were 2 separate units, not combined, and the regulator only regulated one phase of the 3 stator output phases...from what I have gathered from reading up on this subject here on GSR... very crude system.
Just disconnect the striped wires, and hook the 3rd stator leg direct to the r/r same as the others.
I myself personally would not be very inclined to run the stock r/r after doing this however, it may be best suited to a minimum of upgraded wiring (posplayr GS Charging System Health rr/battery rewiring diagram, & posplayr's single point ground conversion) & a newer mosfet switching rr, definitely best with the wiring upgrades AND a series switching r/r like the SH775 or the newer SH8##(?) VSTROM Shindengen series switching units.
The original 1970's thinking was that if the headlight/taillight was not being used (biggest power consumption on the bike), then why bother generating more power to just have to send STRAIGHT to ground to regulate (i.e. stator always running full load and very hot) - just unhook the one stator leg via the headlight switch, then only 66.666% of the stator is running full load. Great in theory, terrible in the long term due to the excess added wiring length and several connectors and switch contacts in this loop, which really can add a lot of resistance when the connections get dirty and corroded and old and worn and loose... then you have the heat and melting issues...
The full load thing comes from the old shunt and even the newer MOSFET r/r operation. They shunt style forces a switch open to send the generated A.C. voltage straight to ground when the system is above 14.5 volts or so. MOSFET works the same way but more efficient faster switching via higher tech components that are powered independently. Still, regulation occurs by sending all excess a.c. voltage straight to ground, so the stator is always at full load.
Series switchmode rr's are more advanced and similar to a mosfet, but to regulate output down to a max of 14.5 volts, they actually just unhook the stator output wires at very rapid cycles to regulate the voltage output, similar to the light switch unhooking the one leg of the stator. The shunt and mosfet types short circuit the excess a.c. stator output straight to ground, which makes the stator run at full load ALWAYS and makes it run hot, but the series is more advanced and is able to just unhook the bike wiring load from the stator output at rapid cycles, so it does nor run at full lpad, only at the load being consumed by the bike. A brilliant advancement in technology...
Also, the early GS's were FAR WORSE EVEN, as the regulator and rectifier were 2 separate units, not combined, and the regulator only regulated one phase of the 3 stator output phases...from what I have gathered from reading up on this subject here on GSR... very crude system.
"I myself personally would not be very inclined to run the stock r/r after doing this however, it may be best suited to a minimum of upgraded wiring (posplayr GS Charging System Health rr/battery rewiring diagram, & posplayr's single point ground conversion) & a newer mosfet switching rr, definitely best with the wiring upgrades AND a series switching r/r like the SH775 or the newer SH8##(?) VSTROM Shindengen series switching units."
I'm still running the stock r/r 3 years after this mod, and it's still fine. I have recently purchased an sh775, but only because the age of the stock unit bothers me a bit.
I'm still running the stock r/r 3 years after this mod, and it's still fine. I have recently purchased an sh775, but only because the age of the stock unit bothers me a bit.
