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How to clean up the aluminum cases

  • Thread starter Thread starter shibby_cbs
  • Start date Start date
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shibby_cbs

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As you can see the engine casing on the right side of my bike is significantly discolored. Its not something that you can feel if you run your hands over it so i'm not sure that it corrosion. Maybe some type of oxidation?. anyways any tips on what to do to get rid of this?

20160512_202219.jpg
 
There are about a bazillon threads on how to polish the cases. A search will turn up more info than you would possibly need.

My suggestion:

- remove cover from bike
- strip off factory clear coat with paint stripper
- use 220 grit sandpaper on a palm size DA sander to remove corrosion
- use a dremel tool with stainless steel wire wheel to get into all the nooks and crannies
- use a SISAL polishing wheel w/black cutting compound to polish the sanding marks out. Wear gloves, the metal gets quite hot during this process.

Good luck
 
Ouch 220 seems a tad harsh...........I prefer silicone carbide wet\dry and ease my way in from a smoother grit like 600 in order to get a feel for the softness of the metal.
It would be very nice to have a bead blaster.
 
in fact i do have a bead blaster. Ill load up the glass bead and give her a spray. the glass bead on aluminum is a bit aggressive though so ill probably hit it with 600 after that. I just wonder how the corrosion happened underneath the clear.
 
I first used paint stripper. Buy yourself some 3M automotive sandpaper. I started with 800 then 1000 and finally 1500. I keep 600 and 2000 on hand.

Sand wet using dish soap dipping often.

After sanding polish with your choice of product. My results are in the Project Thread, Suzzie. It's actually quite simple to do, just a little time.

image_51.jpeg


image_59.jpeg


(ignition cover not polished in picture)
 
I read once that Suzuki cases have a bit of lead in them. I have no way to be sure of this but any clear coat I have ever applied has had just enough of a film of reactants on the prepped surface. Once the reaction starts the end is always the same.
 
Knock yourselves out guys hand sanding with fine sandpaper. Ben there, done that.

Bead blasting may remove the corrosion, but many times it's not aggressive enough. I've tried that too.

The Sisal Wheel w/black cutting compound is the key ingredient for fast results. This setup easily removes the 220 grit sanding scratches so why not use 220? I did all these parts in just a couple of hours (painting excluded).


P1010138_zps1a8da351.jpg






 
Lovely work Nessism. I use caution only to prevent having to work harder to remove a gouge or mar from being too agresive.
Nothing sweeter than a Sisal wheel and black compound.
 
Runeight said:
(ignition cover not polished in picture)
Click to expand...

Yea I am actually looking for more of a dull brushed look for the cases. something I was able to achieve with a coarse scotch bright on the igntion cover.
 
shibby_cbs said:
Yea I am actually looking for more of a dull brushed look for the cases. something I was able to achieve with a coarse scotch bright on the igntion cover.
Click to expand...

The picture hides it but it looks brushed. This is why I stopped at 1000 grit. In this picture I replaced the ignition cover with a new OEM part. Matched pretty close.

image_125.jpeg
 
Runeight said:
Ed> It's a hobby. Suppose to take time.:D That's the fun of it.
Click to expand...

NOT!:mad: I've done a bunch of parts hand sanding like you did and was dreading doing those Kawasaki parts. Jim (Posplyer) suggested the DA w/220 and glad he did. I had previously moved to the Sisal but the corrosion must be removed first and hand sanding sucks.
 
Nessism said:
NOT!:mad: I've done a bunch of parts hand sanding like you did and was dreading doing those Kawasaki parts. Jim (Posplyer) suggested the DA w/220 and glad he did. I had previously moved to the Sisal but the corrosion must be removed first and hand sanding sucks.
Click to expand...

:D:p:D

No worries. I have a stand polisher and compound. Never dug it out of the corner. As long as the effort equals desired results it's all good.
 
I'm simply curious as to how the parts would look with a smoothing and glass beaded....I don't think the oem stuff was that shiney...but I do like it{except for the work involved-lol}
 
80GS850GBob said:
I'm simply curious as to how the parts would look with a smoothing and glass beaded....I don't think the oem stuff was that shiny...but I do like it{except for the work involved-lol}
Click to expand...

Depending on what grit you get it will change the finish though glass bead from my experience isn't really well suited for creating a finished product at least on aluminum. It does though leave a perfect finish for painting and takes to polishing very well. I think this is what i will be doing. cleaning it up with the glass bead then hitting it with the sisal wheel and black compound. i will then use finer compounds to suit the finish i am looking for. i originally said i was looking for a brushed finish but after seeing Runeight's pictures im not so sure :). here is the finish that glass bead leaves on aluminum. at least the grit i am using anyway. ill run out into the garage and look here in a sec but i believe it is 80 grit. I'll correct this if i am wrong. keep in mind i partially blasted this piece almost 2 years ago so there are some nicks and scratches though this kinda illustrates how fragile the finish is.

 
Seems like the gospel is: GS cases MUST BE POLISHED!!!
Why not, brush them, or paint them?
 
Buffalo Bill said:
Seems like the gospel is: GS cases MUST BE POLISHED!!!
Why not, brush them, or paint them?
Click to expand...

I'm a horrible painter, so I think that leaves me with brushed, or maybe powder-coat. I toyed with the idea of polishing the drum brake cover to match my shiny (well they are shiny under the dirt) wire wheels. Anyway, I think you're on to something. I'm going to look into painting my cases oil color so it hides all the leaks. :)
 
And if you go the polishing route. Use "Wizards, Power Seal" it's a metal sealer. It keeps the aluminum shiny longer. Chuck Hahn turned me on to the stuff. So far it's working good for me. 👍
 
Some day I will have to try the sisal wheel and black polish. :-k

So far, I am happy with my stitched cotton wheel and white polish. :encouragement:

IMG_07691_zpsbamxc0nz.jpg


smallP6166328.jpg


2.jpg


IMG_7323.jpg


I have tried various grits of paper, but so far, I have the best results with stripper to remove the clear coat, then one of those Scotch-Brite looking wheels from Harbor Freight.

.
 
shibby_cbs said:
Depending on what grit you get it will change the finish though glass bead from my experience isn't really well suited for creating a finished product at least on aluminum. It does though leave a perfect finish for painting and takes to polishing very well. I think this is what i will be doing. cleaning it up with the glass bead then hitting it with the sisal wheel and black compound. i will then use finer compounds to suit the finish i am looking for. i originally said i was looking for a brushed finish but after seeing Runeight's pictures im not so sure :). here is the finish that glass bead leaves on aluminum. at least the grit i am using anyway. ill run out into the garage and look here in a sec but i believe it is 80 grit. I'll correct this if i am wrong. keep in mind i partially blasted this piece almost 2 years ago so there are some nicks and scratches though this kinda illustrates how fragile the finish is.

Click to expand...

Wow, a lot duller than I expected...thanks for the pic! ....Btw, what pressure where you using...the only sand blasting I ever did was black beauty @ 80psi to remove rust, so my experience is limited.
 
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