E
Escobarclan
Guest
Hi everyone, I've gotten alot of e-mails from my website about polishing. I thought I'd post this so anyone who is a Do-it-yourselfer can polish at home.
First off, I'd like to say that any and all supplies can be ordered from www.eastwood.com. They are the the best suppliers for polishing needs I can find.
Ok, so you have an engine cover that is looking bad. No problem, polishing is pretty simple. I'll use a worst case example as well.
You have an engine cover, left side. You or someone turned the bike over and gouged the aluminum. The finish also happens to have a coat of that old, yellowed clearcoat on it too, and to top it off, it's badly oxidized.
First thing, go to Wal-mart and buy a can of "aircraft stripper", and a set of rubber gloves.
Scrub the part with some #00 steel wool to break the surface, it allows the stripper to sink in under the clearcoat better. Spray the part thoroughly and let sit, you'll see the clearcoat start bubbling, just make sure you do this OUTSIDE. Also, this stuff is HOT, it'll burn you chemically.
Ok, so the clearcoat is off, easier than you thought. Now the cutting begins. If you have deep gouges you just get some 600 grit sandpaper and get busy, work your way up to at least 800. Not every gouge is removable, they're just too deep.
Now come the 'emery' compound and 'sisal' wheel. This will remove oxidation as well. This compound 'cuts', but don't expect it to do alot quickly. Take your time and don't push the part against the wheel very hard.
Now the polishing begins, you'll need 'tripoli' compound and a 'spiral sewn' wheel for this stage. Most beginners can start at this stage if the parts aren't bad, or have a factory finish. Take in mind that even if you have a factory finish, aluminum oxidation will require an 'emery' type grit to remove it.
'tripoli' finishes are sufficient for most people, it's easy to maintain as well. But let's get to the real mirror finish.
Ok, the finish, and this is when your part will emerge beautifully. You'll need the 'white rouge' compound. This part is called 'coloring', as opposed to buffing. You'll need a 'canton flannel' wheel for this. With rouge, you need very light pressure on the part, don't let the part get hot! It changes the 'color' of finish.
Ok, so that's it. But you must remember this:
Use only 1 compound per wheel, NEVER, EVER, MIX.
A cool part polishes better, the compound doesn't 'cake', you can alternate parts on a wheel for this, letting each one cool by a fan.
Use cotton gloves, your hand oil can drastically alter the coumpounds' effectiveness. My guys have 'grit gloves' a pair for every grit. Nothing sucks worse than coloring with rouge, and seeing you have to take out emery scratches.
Wrap a towel around the base of the buffing motor, and put an old blanket on the floor, beleive me on this: A PART WILL FLY OUT OF YOUR HAND, it's inevitable, bet on it.
A bench grinder motor will work. 1HP is optimal, 1/4hp is hard but doable. There are websites on how to set-up your own polishing motor from a used dryer motor, if that attracts you. You need no less than 3400 rpm to polish, any less isn't possible.
Touch the compound to the wheel often, what I train my guys to do is stand in front of the wheel and hit it with the compound, when you feel dusty-like bits touch your face, then it's enough. Wearing safety glasses of course.
Always clean the part between grits, always. Just use a clean WHITE rag.
When you get to the Tripoli and White Rouge grits, the parts have to be wiped with a clean cotton material and white all-purpose flour. the flour soaks up oil microscopically, and doesn't scratch a surface.
Don't ever blow a part clean with compressor air, compressors air has oil in them, whether you see it or not.
AND MOST IMPORTANTLY, ALUMINUM OXIDE IS A DIRECT CAUSE OF ALZHEIMER"S DISEASE, wear mask or wet bandanna, they're CHEAP.
I hope this helps guys. It seems like alot, but when you start you'll see it's pretty simple.
Go to our website, www.escobarpolishing.com if you think you need a professional job.
First off, I'd like to say that any and all supplies can be ordered from www.eastwood.com. They are the the best suppliers for polishing needs I can find.
Ok, so you have an engine cover that is looking bad. No problem, polishing is pretty simple. I'll use a worst case example as well.
You have an engine cover, left side. You or someone turned the bike over and gouged the aluminum. The finish also happens to have a coat of that old, yellowed clearcoat on it too, and to top it off, it's badly oxidized.
First thing, go to Wal-mart and buy a can of "aircraft stripper", and a set of rubber gloves.
Scrub the part with some #00 steel wool to break the surface, it allows the stripper to sink in under the clearcoat better. Spray the part thoroughly and let sit, you'll see the clearcoat start bubbling, just make sure you do this OUTSIDE. Also, this stuff is HOT, it'll burn you chemically.
Ok, so the clearcoat is off, easier than you thought. Now the cutting begins. If you have deep gouges you just get some 600 grit sandpaper and get busy, work your way up to at least 800. Not every gouge is removable, they're just too deep.
Now come the 'emery' compound and 'sisal' wheel. This will remove oxidation as well. This compound 'cuts', but don't expect it to do alot quickly. Take your time and don't push the part against the wheel very hard.
Now the polishing begins, you'll need 'tripoli' compound and a 'spiral sewn' wheel for this stage. Most beginners can start at this stage if the parts aren't bad, or have a factory finish. Take in mind that even if you have a factory finish, aluminum oxidation will require an 'emery' type grit to remove it.
'tripoli' finishes are sufficient for most people, it's easy to maintain as well. But let's get to the real mirror finish.
Ok, the finish, and this is when your part will emerge beautifully. You'll need the 'white rouge' compound. This part is called 'coloring', as opposed to buffing. You'll need a 'canton flannel' wheel for this. With rouge, you need very light pressure on the part, don't let the part get hot! It changes the 'color' of finish.
Ok, so that's it. But you must remember this:
Use only 1 compound per wheel, NEVER, EVER, MIX.
A cool part polishes better, the compound doesn't 'cake', you can alternate parts on a wheel for this, letting each one cool by a fan.
Use cotton gloves, your hand oil can drastically alter the coumpounds' effectiveness. My guys have 'grit gloves' a pair for every grit. Nothing sucks worse than coloring with rouge, and seeing you have to take out emery scratches.
Wrap a towel around the base of the buffing motor, and put an old blanket on the floor, beleive me on this: A PART WILL FLY OUT OF YOUR HAND, it's inevitable, bet on it.
A bench grinder motor will work. 1HP is optimal, 1/4hp is hard but doable. There are websites on how to set-up your own polishing motor from a used dryer motor, if that attracts you. You need no less than 3400 rpm to polish, any less isn't possible.
Touch the compound to the wheel often, what I train my guys to do is stand in front of the wheel and hit it with the compound, when you feel dusty-like bits touch your face, then it's enough. Wearing safety glasses of course.
Always clean the part between grits, always. Just use a clean WHITE rag.
When you get to the Tripoli and White Rouge grits, the parts have to be wiped with a clean cotton material and white all-purpose flour. the flour soaks up oil microscopically, and doesn't scratch a surface.
Don't ever blow a part clean with compressor air, compressors air has oil in them, whether you see it or not.
AND MOST IMPORTANTLY, ALUMINUM OXIDE IS A DIRECT CAUSE OF ALZHEIMER"S DISEASE, wear mask or wet bandanna, they're CHEAP.
I hope this helps guys. It seems like alot, but when you start you'll see it's pretty simple.
Go to our website, www.escobarpolishing.com if you think you need a professional job.
