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How to remove master link?

cloudbreakmd

cloudbreakmd

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
I overtightened the chain rivet on the VFR. I'm doing to order a new rivet link but how do I get the old one off without damaging the new chain?
 
Assuming you don't have the proper tool just use a grinder of some sort to remove the peened end of the master link and a small punch or even a nail to push the link out.
 
Gonna be a PITA without the proper tools, but sounds like you have them since you tightened the current link on there. Just grind the heads off the master link's rivets and press them out. If you're careful you'll only destroy the plate on the master link which you're going to replace anyway with the new master link. I use a Dremel tool for this.
 
Sandy said:
Assuming you don't have the proper tool just use a grinder of some sort to remove the peened end of the master link and a small punch or even a nail to push the link out.
Click to expand...

I have the proper tool (I think). It's a D.I.D. unit that comes with the pins to drive out the link and the other components to set the new link.

I made the mistake of not using a grinder (Dremel) to take the heads off the first time I used it. The pin on the tool broke on the first attempt. The Dremel can do it in a few minutes.

I haven't seen a tool for pushing master links out without grinding the heads first.
 
Thank you guys... I purchased a press/riveter but not a pin extractor. Next on putchase list I suppose.
 
cloudbreakmd said:
Thank you guys... I purchased a press/riveter but not a pin extractor. Next on putchase list I suppose.
Click to expand...

Try it first without the pin extractor. They usually just fall off when you have ground the heads far enough.
 
Simlpe hand punch will drive the pins out. Flat tip screw driver and hammer on the center of the remaining bog bone does the trick too. Few good smacks and done.
 
30 years+ of ownership and riding here. Fancvy smancy tools werent needed then and they arent needed now. Doesnt take a 40 dollar tool to do what a simple punch an d hammer does in 1 miute or less once you grind off the rivet head. If someone wants to be convinced they need to spend money unnecessarilty then thats ok too.

109 bucks can got toward tires or something thats REALLY actually needed.
 
You can do whatever you want. I've been working on bikes since I was a kid and I've found the chain rivet/breaker tool makes the job a lot smoother and easier and considering it's basically a lifetime tool and I've essentially amortized that tool over the rest of my life and however many chain driven bikes I've owned or will own into the future so the cost is essentially factions of a fractions of a penny over that time. For those that dont' have the "feel" down on chain installs this tool also basically makes it impossible to over press a master link side plate or over do a rivet.

We don't "need" modern day tools to farm and raise animals...........sure as hell makes the work a lot easier and efficient though.
 
chuck hahn said:
30 years+ of ownership and riding here. Fancvy smancy tools werent needed then and they arent needed now. Doesnt take a 40 dollar tool to do what a simple punch an d hammer does in 1 miute or less once you grind off the rivet head. If someone wants to be convinced they need to spend money unnecessarilty then thats ok too.

109 bucks can got toward tires or something thats REALLY actually needed.
Click to expand...

I'm with you Chuck on this one. Hearing about not having the right adaptors handy and replacing broken punch pins and the fiddling involved I'll just stick with my angle grinder and small punch. No muss, no fuss and master link is off in about a minute or two.
 
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The master links are held together with the elongated circlip. The problem is removing a link on a continuous riveted chain so it can be removed and the new chain installed. I grab the angle grinder and grind the two pin heads off, pry off the outer bog bone, flip the screwdriver into the inner bone and smack...the link pops out and done in no time flat.
 
chuck hahn said:
The master links are held together with the elongated circlip. The problem is removing a link on a continuous riveted chain so it can be removed and the new chain installed. I grab the angle grinder and grind the two pin heads off, pry off the outer bog bone, flip the screwdriver into the inner bone and smack...the link pops out and done in no time flat.
Click to expand...

When said master link I always use riveted ones so the same removal method applies to either. But the angle grinder works great, but then, I'm only doing one chain every few years.
 
If you use a clip type master link then special tools don't really make the job any easier. If you're using a rivet type it removes any question about if the link is installed correctly or not. If you're just doing a chain (I just replace the cheap steel sprockets at chain replacement anyway) you can do it with the tool in about 5 mins.
 
You should always do sprockets when you do a chain. Why in any form of common sense would you use a worn sprocket thats not gonna mesh well with a new tight chain and wear the new chain out faster than lightning can strike?? Why would you do that???
 
chuck hahn said:
You should always do sprockets when you do a chain. Why in any form of common sense would you use a worn sprocket thats not gonna mesh well with a new tight chain and wear the new chain out faster than lightning can strike?? Why would you do that???
Click to expand...

Did you read my whole post or just bits and pieces of it?

I just replace the cheap steel sprockets at chain replacement anyway
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There are people that just replace chains if they feel the sprockets look good. I'm not one of those people, especially when a set of quality steel sprockets are so cheap, but I don't try to tell folks how to live their lives haha. A lot of people refuse to use clip type master links too.
 
Yes i read the entire thing..the comment was about the part "if your only replacing the chain". Im not telling anybody to do sh!tz by the way either. Third, I have used circlip masters on everything from street to dirt bikes and havent had a master link failure EVER in 30+ years. They are tried and true links. Sprockets may "look good" but they are worn..no way around that fact.
 
chuck hahn said:
Third, I have used circlip masters on everything from street to dirt bikes and havent had a master link failure EVER in 30+ years. They are tried and true links. Sprockets may "look good" but they are worn..no way around that fact.
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Chuck, I'm glad you haven't experienced a failure....................... I had two different master links come off on my 1100ez. The second one was safety wired as well. The entire chain came off the bike at better than 80, with my wife on board.

I learned. Luckily without damage to the bike, or injury to the people that matter.

I too am not telling anyone what to do. Just providing my experience.
 
I have heard of failure from Rocks just perfectly hitting the link and knocking the circlip off. I always install the clip so that the open end points to the rear of the bike if its on the bottom of the loop...or faci ng the front of the bike if its on the top. However one chooses to view what I mean.
 
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