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I can't get my bike started.

  • Thread starter Thread starter JCG
  • Start date Start date
J

JCG

Guest
A couple of weeks ago I purchased a 1983 GS550ES with a mere 4,000 miles on it as my first motorcycle. I have been riding it without any problems but yesterday when I started my bike to let it warm up I closed the choke before it was ready for it and it died on me. Normally this isn't an issue, I open the choke back up and let the bike run for another 30 seconds or so and its fine, but this time the bike wouldn't start up again. I tried to get it running today and it still wouldn't start. The plugs are firing and when I shift into 1st gear and try to start the bike inches forward for a second. I would give you more details but I don't know much about motorcycles in regards to how everything works.
 
sounds like it's out of gas. Try it on reserve. Are you sure the vacuum hose didn't come off the petcock? Then check the fuel lines for a kink. After that you should be looking for fuel flow by checking the line to make sure fuel is getting into the carbs.
 
Hee Haw Howdy!

Hee Haw Howdy!

Hi Mr. JCG,

Do you have a manual for your bike? Stop by my website and get one. There not quite enough information to go on, but the usual suspects are the carbs, leaky intake system, valve clearances, and charging system. There's more reference material here in your very own mega-welcome! \\:D/

 Let it be known that on this day you are cordially and formally welcomed to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. Further let it be known that your good standing can be improved with pictures (not you, your bike)![FONT=Arial, sans-serif] [/FONT]
icon_biggrin.gif


Perhaps you've already seen these, but I like to remind all the new members. In addition to the carb rebuild series, I recommend visiting the In The Garage section via the GSR Homepage and check out the Stator Papers. There's also a lot of great information in the Old Q&A section. I have some documentation on my little BikeCliff website to help get you familiar with doing routine maintenance tasks (note that it is 850G-specific but many tasks are common to all GS bikes). Other "user contributed" informational sites include those of Mr. bwringer, Mr. tfb and Mr. robertbarr. And if your bike uses shims for valve adjustments, send an email to Mr. Steve requesting a copy of his Excel spreadsheet that helps you keep track of clearances, shim sizes and other service work.

These are some edited quotes from one of our dear beloved gurus, Mr. bwringer, with ideas on basic needs (depending on initial condition), parts, and accessories.
***********Quoted from Mr. bwringer************
Carburetor maintenance:

Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:
http://bwringer.com/gs/intakeorings.html
Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:
http://cycleorings.com/intake.html
You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.
And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:
http://cycleorings.com
Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:
http://thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm
***********************************
Every GS850 has (or had) a set of well-known issues that MUST be addressed before you have a solid baseline for further troubleshooting. It's a vintage bike, and it's quite common (as in, every single GS850 I have had contact with) that there are multiple problems that have crept up and slowly gotten worse over the years. It's not like a newer vehicle, where there's generally one problem at a time.

These common issues are:

1. Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile O-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)
2. Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)
3. Valve clearances (more important than most people think)
4. Carb/airbox boots
5. Airbox sealing
6. Air filter sealing
7. Petcock (install a NEW one)
8. On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)
9. On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.
10. Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.
***************************************
OEM Parts/Online Fiches:

I would definitely double and triple the recommendations to use Cycle Recycle II and Z1 Enterprises as much as possible. These guys are priceless resources. Z1 tends to have slightly better prices, CRC2 has a wider range of goodies available. If you're near Indy and can bring in an old part to match, CRC2 has a vast inventory of used parts.
http://denniskirk.com - Put in your bike model and see what they have.
http://oldbikebarn.com - seems to be slowly regaining a decent reputation, but it's still caveat emptor. They don't have anything you can't get elsewhere at a better price anyway.
http://www.babbittsonline.com/ - Decent parts prices. Spendy shipping. Don't give you part numbers at all. Useful cross-reference if you obtain a part number elsewhere. Efficient service.
http://bikebandit.com - Fastest. Middlin' prices. Uses their own parts numbering system to obfuscate price comparisons -- can be very confusing for large orders. Cheapest shipping, so total cost usually isn't too bad.
http://flatoutmotorcycles.com - Slow. Cheapest parts prices, crazy shipping costs. Don't expect progress updates or much communication. Real Suzuki part numbers.
http://alpha-sports.com - Exorbitant parts prices. Different type of fiche interface that's quite useful at times, especially with superceded part numbers. Real parts numbers. Shipping cost and speed unknown due to insane, unholy pricing.

Stainless Bolts, Viton o-rings, metric taps, dies, assorted hard-to-find supplies and materials, etc:

http://mcmaster.com - Fast, cheap shipping, good prices. No order minimum, but many items like bolts come in packs of 25 or 50. Excellent resource.
http://motorcycleseatcovers.com - Great quality, perfect fit (on original seat foam), and available for pretty much every bike ever made. Avoid the textured vinyl -- it's perforated.
http://newenough.com - You DO have riding gear, don't you? Great clearances, always outstanding prices and impeccable service.
***************End Quote**********************
Additional parts/info links:

GSR Forum member Mr. duaneage has great used upgraded Honda regulator/rectifiers for our bikes. Send him a PM.
New electrical parts:
http://stores.ebay.com/RMSTATOR or http://www.rmstator.com/
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php
http://www.electrosport.com/
For valve cover and breather cover gaskets, I recommend Real Gaskets (reusable silicon):
http://www.realgaskets.com
The Rice Paddy (salvage/used)
http://www.ricepaddymotorcycles.com
Carolina Cycle
http://www.carolinacycle.com
Ron Ayers Motorsports
http://www.ronayers.com
MR Cycles
http://www.mrcycles.com
Moto Grid
http://www.motogrid.com
If all else fails, try this:
http://www.used-motorcycle-parts.org/
Used bike buying checklists:
http://www.amadirectlink.com/roadride/Riderresc/checklist.asp
http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html
Lots of good info/pictures here:
http://www.suzukicycles.org
http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Motorcycle_Wiki

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed of your progress. There's lots of good folk with good experience here.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
(The unofficial GSR greeter)
walmart_greeter2.jpg
 
Oh yeah. I forgot to mention the petcock. Good call there Mr. LarryA_Texas.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
LarryA_Texas said:
sounds like it's out of gas. Try it on reserve. Are you sure the vacuum hose didn't come off the petcock? Then check the fuel lines for a kink. After that you should be looking for fuel flow by checking the line to make sure fuel is getting into the carbs.
Click to expand...

My tank is about half full. The fuelcock seems to have every hose connected. On the right side of the bike I have a black hose that runs to somewhere around the engine and connects there but the other end of the hose is not connected to anything. The clear hose runs to my battery so never mind that
 
Last edited:
Should be on the back of the petcock and leading to the second carb from the left side. One raise of the tank can sometimes pull it off the petcock....thus keeping the bike from starting as the carbs need the vacuum for fuel.

If you only have one tube connected to the petcock, this could be your problem. One is for vacuum, the other is for fuel.
 
Try these pictures

Try these pictures

Hi Mr. JCG,

If your petcock looks like this, the upper (smaller) hose is for vacuum and the lower (larger) is for fuel.

petcock.jpg


Since these petcocks are vacuum operated, there is no "OFF" position. Gas will flow in the ON and RES position only when the engine is running. The PRI position allows fuel to flow via gravity (without vacuum). Use this position to "prime" the carbs, filling the float bowls, and turn off after a minute or so. Do not leave your petcock in this PRI position or you could get gas in your oil and experience other maladies.

Here is a view of the #2 carb and its connections (Note, #1 is on the left as you sit on the bike).

fuel_vacuum_vent_ports.jpg


In addition to the vacuum and fuel connections, your carb rack also has two vent hose connections. One you see between the #1 and #2 carb. The other is between the #3 and #4 carb. These vent hoses just lay over and behind the airbox out of turbulent air. See the picture below.

tankseatgone-1.jpg


Now, did you get to my website and download a manual? It's amazing how much you can learn just by reading. :-D

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Great explanation, Basscliff.

JCG,

How are things going? Was there anything in particular that you did between the time you tried to start it with the choke on before it died and the time after?
 
Craiger said:
Great explanation, Basscliff.

JCG,

How are things going? Was there anything in particular that you did between the time you tried to start it with the choke on before it died and the time after?
Click to expand...

My vacuum tube is connected at both ends, and when this happened I was not doing anything out of the ordinary.
 
I have never done anything like a carb rebuild before, would I be in over my head and be better off having a professional do it or should I be alright on my own as long as I have the tools.
 
You can do it! Print out the Carb cleaning series and have a go. Get some o-rings from Robert Barr.
Get an impact driver for the carb rack.
 
I agree, JCG, you should be able to do it. Just do one at a time and take your time. Don't separate them as they'll need resynched if you do.
 
I wouldn't jump into carbs just yet. Unhook the fuel line (larger hose) from the petcock and carefully turn the lever to PRI. IF fuel does NOT come out the screen in the tank is plugged, or the small tubes are clogged. If it does come out turn it back to either RES or On and then spray carb cleaner through the fuel line (should still be loose) for about 30 seconds and see if that clears things up.

If you were running it regular and it suddenly had this problem, I don't think the carbs dirtied up overnight. Most likely some junk is clogging the petcock.

Oh yeah, the petcock can break too. This is a sudden problem where the diaphragm inside the petcock springs a leak and doesn't turn the gas on. Easy to replace kits are around 22 dollars on ebay or at the dealer.

So if even if your getting gas on PRI the petcock is still suspect.

Save the carb job for later when your better prepared.
 
duaneage said:
I wouldn't jump into carbs just yet. Unhook the fuel line (larger hose) from the petcock and carefully turn the lever to PRI. IF fuel does NOT come out the screen in the tank is plugged, or the small tubes are clogged. If it does come out turn it back to either RES or On and then spray carb cleaner through the fuel line (should still be loose) for about 30 seconds and see if that clears things up.

If you were running it regular and it suddenly had this problem, I don't think the carbs dirtied up overnight. Most likely some junk is clogging the petcock.

Oh yeah, the petcock can break too. This is a sudden problem where the diaphragm inside the petcock springs a leak and doesn't turn the gas on. Easy to replace kits are around 22 dollars on ebay or at the dealer.

So if even if your getting gas on PRI the petcock is still suspect.

Save the carb job for later when your better prepared.
Click to expand...

Good advice.
 
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