Illuminated Gear Indicator on original GS1100EZ (1982)?

[Rob S.]

So, I need my old members!

I know they originally came with digital gear indicators, centered and just below the clocks. Pretty much dead center in the console.

I'm assuming they were always illuminated because there were very few lights on that bike that weren't. Were they more visible during the day or night?

Are original, fully functional units still available?

Over the years, I've bought almost half a dozen sets (from you guys), some saying the lights work, others saying they're not sure. None have ever been tried. Last night I found one set. Fingers are crossed that I find the remaining few sets and that the first one my mechanic tries works 100%.

Just in case, are there brands with better reps than others?

 

[Baatfam]

Yes......I am old. And a member.

But not really sure I understand your question, is yours missing?

BTW...I just spent a full day getting mine to work.

 

[Steve]

I'm a little confuzzled, too. :-k

Are you saying that you are still looking for more instrumet panels or just expressing hope that the one(s) that you have actually work.

.

 

[Rob S.]

My gear indicator is visible in daylight. It doesn't give off any light though, and would require taking eyes off the road for too long to be of any use at night.

Mine operates fine, it's just too dark to be of any safe use at night. It seems like 1982 technology; just wondering if anyone has one that's bright enough to be seen at night. And wondering if it was like that in '82.

 

[Steve]

Does this look like your instrument cluster?

If so, I'll see if I still have it, then do some testing.

.

 

[Rob S.]

Does this look like your instrument cluster?

If so, I'll see if I still have it, then do some testing.

.

Exactly, except for the 9.5 k tach. Much appreciated.

 

[Baatfam]

The gear indicator on my '82 cluster didn't light up, and neither does the '83 I just put on, but there appears to be a bulb.
In the picture below, (the display is face down on the bench), you can see a small bulb solder to the board.
Put together it appears to act as a side light to the clear bezel that is over the LCD.
This one appears burnt out when you look close, but I haven't put a meter to it to make sure.
But if you can get a new one, it could be replaced with a soldering iron.
Personally, I am not worried about it, and it is a real pain to get to.

 

[Rob S.]

I guess it's an obsessive compulsive thing. In daylight, it's a quick glance, a game of "I bet I know what gear I'm in."

At night, it becomes dangerous. But my eyes being what they are, I do almost no nighttime riding. It's just a point of telling the mechanic to test all the spares I bought over the years, and only install one if its brighter than the current one. Could be expensive, even a waste if they all turn out to be the same.

I'm making a list, (checking it twice!). Trying to prioritize things. #1 is definitely, "get it running!" But do I really need air in the forks, illuminated gear indicator, etc? Important things are done: tires, sprockets, chain, new fork springs, SS brake lines, valve adjust are all quite new.

I did, actually get inside the original clocks when I first bought her because they were barely illuminating. A couple of bulbs I couldn't change, just too old and corroded. Even lost an old bulb in the tach and could not get it out. Fortunately caused no ill effects.

But I was able to replace one bulb, successfully button everything back up again, and I'll never forget that feeling. I was tickled pink - I could actually see the tach at night.

 

[Baatfam]

I guess it's an obsessive compulsive thing. In daylight, it's a quick glance, a game of "I bet I know what gear I'm in."

At night, it becomes dangerous. But my eyes being what they are, I do almost no nighttime riding. It's just a point of telling the mechanic to test all the spares I bought over the years, and only install one if its brighter than the current one. Could be expensive, even a waste if they all turn out to be the same.

I'm making a list, (checking it twice!). Trying to prioritize things. #1 is definitely, "get it running!" But do I really need air in the forks, illuminated gear indicator, etc? Important things are done: tires, sprockets, chain, SS brake lines, valve adjust are all quite new.

I did, actually get inside the original clocks when I first bought her because they were barely illuminating. A couple of bulbs I couldn't change, just too old and corroded. Even lost an old bulb in the tach and could not get it out. Fortunately caused no ill effects.

But I was able to replace one bulb, successfully button everything back up again, and I'll never forget that feeling. I was tickled pink - I could actually see the tach at night.

A couple of things, Rob.
That little bulb in my picture above, is not designed to be replaced. There is no part number I can find from Suzuki.
I think a shop would just want to replace the whole gear indicator as an assembly.
However, none of the normal parts places have it in stock, or show it as available. There might be NOS stock somewhere.

Now that doesn't mean the bulb cannot be replaced. We just need to figure what we need.
12v, wire leads, and small. I can measure that one if needed.
After that, tiny hands and a soldering iron.

As for the air forks. Are the springs still original? New springs will do wonders, and you don't need air pressure.

I have found the best way to replace the bulbs, is to just buy a complete set from Suzuki, take the cluster completely off the bike, do it on a workbench, and change them all.

Good luck.

 

[Rob S.]

I got Race Tech straight rate .90s, probably should have got 1.0 (175lbs with boots and leather).

Suzuki said seven pounds in forks no matter what you weighed, Cycle World said ten. I'll try ten.

Other than pods and 4-into-1s, which I love, I have this thing about bikes looking and working the way they were designed.

Thanks for your help.

 

[dorkburger]

I replaced the gear indicator light when I had my 1100 years ago.
I picked the bulb up at the now defunct Radio Shack. 12v DC bulb, just two wire leads sticking out - it looked very much like an old Maglite flashlight bulb. I carefully unsoldered the old and resoldered in the new. It worked for the rest of the time (3-4 years) I had the bike.

 

[Baatfam]

I replaced the gear indicator light when I had my 1100 years ago.
I picked the bulb up at the now defunct Radio Shack. 12v DC bulb, just two wire leads sticking out - it looked very much like an old Maglite flashlight bulb. I carefully unsoldered the old and resoldered in the new. It worked for the rest of the time (3-4 years) I had the bike.

I will check.
Turns out Knoxville still has a Radio Shack.
And if they don't have one, there is an independent electronics store a little further away.

 

[Baatfam]

Thanks Glen...Got me looking.

A 12 volt, T-1 shape, 3mm, wire leaded bulb....

Now, who can tell me what would be good wattage or amp draw?
So far I have found these at .06A, .72W or 1.4W....

Glen, Steve....?

 

[dorkburger]

Not a clue.....

 

[Steve]

Given those choices, I would go with the 1.4W.

.

 

[Steve]

I got Race Tech straight rate .90s, probably should have got 1.0 (175lbs with boots and leather).

Suzuki said seven pounds in forks no matter what you weighed, Cycle World said ten. I'll try ten.

As for the air forks. Are the springs still original? New springs will do wonders, and you don't need air pressure.

You must have missed what Bob said, and what everyone else on the forum has been saying for years. :-k
After installing new springs, you will not need any additional air in the system.

There is always "air" in the system. Suzuki (and others) found it to be a wonderful spring medium, but the inherent problem is that it tends to escape, leaving you with less-than-ideal support. Installing proper metal springs will handle the support function, the little bit of air that is trapped when you install the cap can not leak out, so your suspension will remain much more constant.

.

 

[Baatfam]

Given those choices, I would go with the 1.4W.

.

Thanks Steve. I may order some and see how it goes.

EDIT: The 1.4W ones were a T-1.75, so almost twice as large as a T-1. So I ended up ordering some T-1.25s at 1.12W.
It's a pack of 10, so if they work, I should have a few left over.

 

[Rob S.]

You must have missed what Bob said, and what everyone else on the forum has been saying for years. :-k
After installing new springs, you will not need any additional air in the system.

It's not what I need; it's what I want. I may skip it on this first visit to the mechanic to save money.

I have a gear indicator installed on my bike, and it always tells me correctly what gear I'm in. It's just too dark at night to read at a quick glance.

I have several extra units. Non of them is "open": they're sealed units with wires coming out of them. I have no intention of opening them up myself nor am I going to ask my mechanic to open any of them up. I just want to know if I can have any expectations of any of them being brighter than any others. That's why I look forward to the results of your tests, Steve, should you find that '83 console.

I like the way pipes, pods and oil coolers look and function. Pretty much everything else, I want to look and work the way they did in '82 (or '83).

 

[Baatfam]

It's not what I need; it's what I want. I may skip it on this first visit to the mechanic to save money.

I have a gear indicator installed on my bike, and it always tells me correctly what gear I'm in. It's just too dark at night to read at a quick glance.

I have several extra units. Non of them is "open": they're sealed units with wires coming out of them. I have no intention of opening them up myself nor am I going to ask my mechanic to open any of them up. I just want to know if I can have any expectations of any of them being brighter than any others. That's why I look forward to the results of your tests, Steve, should you find that '83 console.

I like the way pipes, pods and oil coolers look and function. Pretty much everything else, I want to look and work the way they did in '82 (or '83).

Well technically, they are not sealed. Just screwed together.
Let's see how mine turns out.
I'll have extra bulbs, and we have no shortage of people here who can easily replace it, if you can't.
Otherwise, looks like you will have to drop a hundred or more IF you find a NOS unit.

Last thought.
Suzuki didn't always do everything right.
Over time, the collective here has learned how to do some things a little better than Suzuki did.
(Especially suspension )

 

[Rob S.]

I know certain things can be improved. Actually, considering all the decades that have passed, I guess everything can be improved. But then it wouldn't be the genuine article.

There's this guy on TV who takes cars like '68 Camaros and 'improves' their styling. "We'll change the height, the taillights, the front grill, the interior, etc." Even worse, it's a surprise to the owner. They sneak away his rusty, but stock '60's or '70's American muscle car and return a one-of-kind custom car, no charge because he's a vet or some other reason.

I HATE this guy. He thinks he knows better than Ford or General Motors. I won't mention any names, but his initials are Chip Foose.

Just venting. Thanks for listening.