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I'm a thread killer~!

  • Thread starter Thread starter J_C
  • Start date Start date
J

J_C

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Bolt threads, not forum threads.


So, apparently I cross threaded the cap onto the rear suspension posts. I absolutely mauled the threads. I had no idea I was doing it until I tried to get it off; turns out it wasn't just hard to screw on because of the powdercoat. :oops:

I'm faced with two options as I can tell. Buy a metric die (somewhere), figure out how to use it, and try to repair/recut threads. Or two, use one of those locking endcaps that just goes on permanently, and have a supply on hand in case I need to cut it off to remove the shock for whatever reason.

I'm leaning towards the die, but I don't know where I could find a metric die. Nor do I know if I should get an M10 - 1.25 die (original thread) or get an M8 - 1.25 die. Does anyone have any input?

Thanks folks. Yesterday was one of those days where I got so much done I just KNEW something was going to go wrong. :cry:
 
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Yeah, I'm not sure where to go from here, so I'm hanging around the computer until someone has an idea. :(
 
The shock stud is welded to the frame isn't it?
Sorry I can't be of much help.
Know any welders?
 
It is welded to the frame. Most of it is fine; it's just the threads that are worked. Here's a pics of it, and what the non fouled up one looks like:

CIMG0107.jpg


CIMG0108.jpg
 
Well, at least you have some stud left to work with. I over torqued one of mine and ended up with only a few threads left after it broke. :cry: I used a die to cut some more thread, but I want to redo it but don't weld and don't want to go to a shop.:confused: Now what?

I'd cut new threads one size smaller and then put a heli coil into the nut.
 
Ive got one where the shock stud somehow wore funny and I cant get the shock off. I mean I pryed the hell out of it and it wont budge. A machine shop could whip out a new stud and weld it back on but thats gonna cost. Id go for the smaller die and re thread. Let us know how you make out. Good luck
 
chef1366 said:
Wow, that's buggered!
Click to expand...

Yeah it is. I've never used a die before so that's why I was wondering if I should try the M10 or go smaller with the M8 as emjay said. I wonder if there would be any harm trying the m10 and then going to m8 if need be...

The nuts are pretty lousy condition anyway so I may just get a new nut at the store, not going to bother helicoiling this one
 
Try running an M10 Die on it with the correct thread pitch, you might be able rearrange the metal into some usable threads and try a new nut on it. An M10 die is not that expensive. Good luck and Happy Thanksgiving.
 
Hi

why cant you just borrow a us die ,,the Suzuki does not know the difference between inch and mm..... (3/8 or 5/16)
 
Drill out the damaged stud and replace it with a bolt.
Then you need to sleeve the bolt so that the threads don't ride on the shock.

Another alternative if you have a welder is to go to a junk yard and cut one off another bike and reweld it back on. If your not a welder maybe some shop could do this for you,

You have options.
 
Wow. I've been there, just not on a shock mount.

If you can only easily find standard dies, go that route. If you're really brave, you can cut off the stud, drill a hole where it used to be, and get a grade 8 (industrial if you can get it) bolt, standard or metric, to slap through there. If you're lucky, you can find one that will be the same diameter as the stud and have the same shoulder length.

You can try an M10 die, and if that doesn't work it shouldn't interfere with you going down to a M8. Another alternative is to put the helicoil on the stud itself and buying another M10 nut, but an M8 should hold it with a washer.

If you go the drill and bolt route, don't worry about metric or standard, just try to find one that has the shame shoulder diameter as the original stud.
 
Much as detest working in inches, I think a 3/8" die might be worth a try, since it appears there's not enough metal there to make decent 10mm threads.

3/8 inch works out to 9.5mm, slightly smaller, and thus you can probably cut some halfway decent threads with a 3/8" die. Maybe.

If you don't have a handle that fits the outside of the die, or you're too cheap to buy one, use a socket. Lube the die and the stud with some light oil, and make sure you hold the die straight and go slowly to get it started. Once you get it going, stop and back it off a bit every 1/2 to 1 turn to clear the chips. Squirt in more lube every so often.

There's no outward force once the shock is mounted, so you won't need monster torque or anything.

To use the 8mm die, you would have to somehow trim the stud down to 8mm before using the die. Won't work.

If the 3/8" die doesn't work, then cutting off the threaded part of the stud and drilling the stub for a bolt and nut might be the best option.
 
Another wacky idea is to build up the stud with some welding rod and then take it down until you can get a tap onto it. You need to have some metal working skills to pull it off. This one is from my Dad, a former shipbuilder/repairer who found himself in these situations many times. Best to greas those threads real good when the shocks are off and use a torque wrench, no more than 15 or 18 lbs on them. Many times people mount racks and such and think they need to gorilla the bolts.
 
Thanks everyone. Tis is how today transpired...

I went to 5 different stores (three of some twice) and I think I reached some solution. I was able to go to sears and get a metric die pack for 17 bucks (5 dies). It has M10 1.25 and M8 1.25 so I went ahead and paid for it. Using an adjustable wrench (i know I know) I slowly thread the M10 die back through the rod. I did use oil.

The result was a decent enough looking thread. It was a little rough and it had a little too much lateral play for the nut in my opinion. I went to three of the previous stores looking for M10 1.25 lock nuts thinking that might be better. Upon resturning empty handed I had a similar thought to what duane said, only I was thinking about using jbweld to build up the material before cutting it down again.

That led me to my next idea. I eventually just said "To hell with it" and put about 4-5 layers of thread locking tape on the thread. I used the previously loose M10 1.25 nut and it went on smoothly with no play. I tightened it down to a reasonable degree of torque and it seems to be holding!

Now, this might be a horrible idea, but it seems to be working for now... perhaps this is something I should just keep checking as part of a pre-ride ritual. Of course, I've been working on the bike for 8 months now and I've never ridden it so.... :)
 
Drill a hole throught the bolt and stud and wire it. Works for race bikes, it will work for yours. Do both sides so it looks normal.
 
Like they said, there's no lateral force on the nut, it's mainly there to keep the shock from falling off. You should be fine, but I like the idea of safety wireing it. Plus you can brag to your friends that it's a "trick custom modification" you did to your bike.....\\:D/
 
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