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I'm at my wits end and about to break...Oil pan hell.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Detman101
  • Start date Start date
Like they said, Try jumper cables first. If it won't start with them, a new battery won't help either. A shot of starting fluid can work wonders. If I don't start my old KZ 1300 for a couple of weeks, it will crank "n" crank "n" crank, but won't hit a lick. A shot of starting fluid and it fires right up. It will start fine from then on, till I let it sit for a couple of weeks again. Then starting fluid again. I'm gonna fix that thing one of these days.
 
One time I forgot to pump up the brakes after changing the brake pads on my car.

Luckily, there was no car coming the next day as my wife and I zoomed down our sloping driveway and out into the road. (I was screaming, "I CAANNNT STOP!)

I will never forget that.

The funny thing is that I have probably worked on brakes about 10 times before, and never forgot to check them afterward. I must have been in a hurry.

Matt
 
argonsagas said:
You might look at another simple thing: firing order.

It is a common error, and usually causes backfiring or other noises, but you could just get a no-start condition.

One coil fires cylinders 1 and 4 the other coil fires 2 and 3.
Click to expand...

I guess this would be related but maybe not. When I pulled the orginal coils off my 850 it was set up to 1,3 & 2,4. That the right order cuz that's how I put the replacements on?
 
I always try to bump start my bike before doing any wrenching. If the starter button isn't turning over the engine, I start pushing, full choke, no throttle, neutral, to 2nd.

It took me 8 pushes on flat ground to get my Kat fired up in February after having the cases split.

My starter clutch was toast so I assembled without the clutch and just the rotor. It fired up.

Worth a try.
 
flyingace said:
And is the choke actuating the choke levers on the carbs? The cable can become disconnected or broken off.
Click to expand...
Also check it's operating fully. My 750 actually has this problem. The choke cable housing on the bars is slightly nurfed, and the choke lever doesn't pull the choke rack quite all the way out. So with choke apparently full on, the bike doesn't start at all.

I have to lean down and manually pull the choke rack out the rest of the way, and then it goes fine.

Strange about the plugs being dry, though. I still think it unlikely that all four carbs have an identical problem. If it's not the supply from the tank, then what else is common to the fuel supply to all four ?

I think eliminating the air filtering as a possible cause is a good idea. It'll do no harm to just take it off until you find the problem.

As for the crowbar and the unseen bolt, a lot of us can plead guilty to that kind of 'moment of inattention'. Please don't ask me why I've got a 'spare' Villiers engine in the barn :oops:

Pete
 
cloudbreakmd said:
In his defense, the man is absolutely crazy. Oh and a motorcycle shop recommended the gasket maker.
Click to expand...

I'm sure he's not really crazy. It's important to use a proper gasket for the sump, though. It acts as a baffle for the oil.
 
cloudbreakmd said:
In his defense, the man is absolutely crazy about maintenance. A bolt was covered with road grime and he didn't see it, thinking all the bolts were off... time lapse forward this cluster of a mess he's in, and here we are. Oh and a motorcycle shop recommended the gasket maker.
Click to expand...
Yeah... that would be a misqoute...
 
Thank you all for your suggestions. I took the plugs out and found that fuel is flowing. Sadly, the battery cannot be recharged and after sitting on the charger for over 2 days it only recharged to 11 volts and not the 12 that is necessary for starting the bike.

CloudbreakMD is going to get me a gel mat battery next week. After that I'm sure the bike will start. Once we get it started the oil pan gasket will be replaced with a replacement that is on it's way as I type this. The bike will be sealed up correctly so that it doesn't leak oil under the bike and possibly slick my rear tire on the highway.

Patience is one of my failures. I have very little of it and even less for machines that will not function as they are supposed to. CloudbreakMD knows me well. :)

Yes, the crowbar has been decomissioned from my army of tools as of the day the oil pan died. :lol:

But I maintain that the bike is going to be sold this winter regardless in order to make way for my new SV-650. These are the last days of the ratbike.

:)
 
While you're at it, decommission any sledge hammers you have laying around. :lol:

Ace.
 
Actually, it's the best tool to use on a broken tach. Works as well as anything else!
 
Well, put the new battery in and the bike still won't start.
I just don't get it.
The new battery is a Gel-Mat battery and comes from the dealer ready to go. It reads 12 volts on the voltmeter that I have in the house. When I put it on the bike it reads 11 volts (with the headlight off) by the bike's internal voltmeter. The bike will crank and crank and crank but it just won't catch.

I don't know what the fuck else to do at this point. God doesn't want me to ride or something...
I've never encountered totally confusing bullshit like this that just doesn't fucking add up. It has everything it fucking needs to start. Compression, gas and fucking spark. WHY THE FUCK WON'T THIS PIECE OF SHIT FUCKING START!!"?!?!?!?!?!?!
 
Detman,
I don't think any of us who responded to you thought a new battery would solve the problem. To confirm this, hook up jumper cables from a car battery and try to start the bike. The car should NOT be running. If it doesn't start, you know it isn't your battery. Because 12 volts sounds low to me, I would continue to jumper the bike for further diagnostic checks. Once you get the bike running, you can return to the battery issue. If a car is not available to you, then trickle charge the new battery overnight to make sure it is fully charged.

first:
make sure your choke is functioning at the carb levers. If it isn't, fix.
make sure the plug wires from the coils go to the correct cylinders.

then:
remove the plugs and turn the engine over to
1. check for a nice big spark on the (grounded) plugs.
2. make sure there's gas vapor coming out of the plug holes.

If 1 or 2 is missing, you have a place to start looking.

Ace.
 
Go buy a can of GUMOUT carb cleaner, Gumout, ONLY...If you have spark, this stuff will burn, period, it will not, however, damage engine like ether can. Now, remove a spark plug, spray some down teh cylinder, screw on teh plug (by hand), crank her. If it putters or fires, you know it is not a spark issue. If it does not fire, reconnect that wire you pulled loose when you crowbarred teh crap out of that oil pan. if it DOES fire, make sure fuel is getting To the carbs, and that your not flooding the engine. turn petcock to 'prime' (if equipped), wait a minute or two, then try ity again. let us know what happens..
 
Well, if the wires coming down the right side of the engine were damaged when I crowbarred the oil pan then that means I will need to dissassemble and/or replace my ignition from the case all the way back to the wiring harness.

Well, I did wanna put a dyna ignition in the pos anyway.
More money wasted...

:roll:
 
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