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I'm finally fixing it!!! YEA!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter FreshmanJoe
  • Start date Start date
Yea, I've been shopping around and can't find it any cheaper. Don't want to put any inferior products on my bike and can't afford K&N, at least not now. Prob best I just forget about it and get to work. Going to the garage now. Will have pics of progress in a few hrs. THANKS!
 
quick note

quick note

have 2 of the slide assemblies out. 1&3 are stuck. trying to be gentle without success. will keep at it. any tips appreciated.
 
Your 1978 should have VM carbs. There is no Dynojet kit for those. HTH
 
Victory for now

Victory for now

I got the slides out. there was a knick on the bottom of the slides 1&3. I had to use some steel wool to sand it down then they poped out. Now I can continue.
 
I'm at Remove Choke Shaft, Lifters, and Plunger Assemblies
1. Loosen the 4 screws that hold the choke lifters to the choke shaft.

and I can't find the 4 screws he's talking about. Any have an idea? Sorry bout the crapload of posts but I'm kind using this forum to keep track of everything in my head.
GEDC3180.jpg


GEDC3179.jpg


GEDC3178.jpg


I'm a newb by the very deffination but now at least i have a good idea on how this all works. I can't remember when I learned this much in one day!!
 
I'm at Remove Choke Shaft, Lifters, and Plunger Assemblies
1. Loosen the 4 screws that hold the choke lifters to the choke shaft.

and I can't find the 4 screws he's talking about. Any have an idea? Sorry bout the crapload of posts but I'm kind using this forum to keep track of everything in my head.

In your picture you already have it (the choke shaft and lifters) removed from the carbs. The shaft goes to all 4 carbs, the lifters connect the shaft to the plunger (1 per carb).
 
Note to self Pilott air screws are as follows
carb 4 1 1/8
carb 3 1 1/4
carb 2 a hair over 1
carb 1 1

Pilot fuel screws
carb 4 2 1/4
carb 3 2 1/2
carb 2 2 1/3
carb 1 2 1/4
 
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That would be the mixture ( air ) screw you mean..the ones on the sides of the carbs. PILOT screws are the ones on the bottom and they all get set at 7/8 to 1 turn out. The mixture screws ( as a basic rebuild start point ) get set at 2 turns out from bottom. Then once the bike is running and well warmed and the carbs are synced, then you adjust the mixture to each cylinder accordingly. They may be where they are at now, but once the valves and other carb maintenance is done everything changes. Thus you start at "point X" on all of them and then tune per your engines particular requirements.
 
The 4 screws talked about for the removal of the choke rail are the ones on the choke plunger lifters.
 
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ok so carbs compleatly taken apart. All jets and small parts that can go in the bath are in the bath and will stay there till tomarrow. Then the carb bodies will go in. Since I have a few days till parts get here I can clean and soak and take my time.
I guess I should start thinking about adjusting that valve clearance and checking my timing. Anyone know of a good tutorial? Let me guess Basscliff's website. I'm checking it out next but first time to go see what the dog's bugging about.
Do I have a 16 valve motor?
 
Thanks Chuck.
Now after a little playing on the puter I think I have a 8 valve motor. So if I'm correct I'll need to get some feeler gages, shims, head gasket, and some oil. Am I missing something? Any other supplies/ tools other than my racket set and torke wrench?
 
Outside of a trip to Sears to pick up a few tools and ordering a few things I think I'm done for the day. Good stuff! I feel good about doing this. It's dosen't seem as diffucult as I thought it would be! So Next is the valve clearance then timing.
Here's a few pics of what eveything look like now.

GEDC3190.jpg


GEDC3189.jpg



GEDC3188.jpg



GEDC3187.jpg
 
Your really rockin along!! Just be sure to poke all the holes in the jets real good and get them as clean as you posibly can. AND AND at the base of the brass tube ( bleeder tube ) sticking out from the carb bodies there are holes there that need to be cleaned and sprayed out. And dont forget the little pin hole at the very end of that tube too.
 
Excellent. And you don't need a head gasket, you need a Suzuki valve cover gasket. Don't buy an aftermarket like Vesrah or Athena or whatever, they do not work with our engines. Get an OEM (Suz) and it will be just dandy.
 
Z1..Boulevard Suzuki..Sirius Consolidated..Parts Shark..All have pretty good reps around here.
 
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