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I'm finally fixing it!!! YEA!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter FreshmanJoe
  • Start date Start date
Remove the bowls and gaskets and use the end of the calipers as in the picture. Set the dial at whatever your manual says ( may have to do the metric to SAE conversion if you dont have a metric dial). Then measure from the little raised area on the body as in the picture to the edges of each float in each carb.




 
As for only runs on prime...got a vacuum hose from carb 3 up to the little nipple on the petcock??? They are vacuum operated petcocks.
 
As for only runs on prime...got a vacuum hose from carb 3 up to the little nipple on the petcock??? They are vacuum operated petcocks.

Yes the vacuum hose is hooked up properly. If i measured the float properly it's at 33mm instead of 24mm the manual states. Will re measure when i get home. I measured it with the carbs attached to the bike. Should i measure the float as i hold it so it's touching tje pin?
 
Yes the float needs to be resting gently on the float needle pin. Best to remove the carbs and do them on the bench. Turn them upside down and make each of the floats in each carb the same. This is the only way anyone should set float heights..by the book.
 
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Yes the float needs to be resting gently on the float needle pin. Best to remove the carbs and do them on the bench. Turn them upside down and make each of the floats in each carb the same. This is the only way anyone should set float heights..by the book.

I hate to be the bearer of sad news but suzuki actually has a different and preferred method of measuring the float height while installed on the bike with fuel in the bowls using their suzuki float height gauge tool. It's a crappy time consuming method but it is "by the book"
 
yes its in the book..well AFTER youve done the mechanical setting of the float hgts. Its really just a confirmation test as I see it.

EDIT..He needs to do them correctly because i doubt he really knows for 100% certain wher they are at. Thats of course just my opinion.
 
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I hate to be the bearer of sad news but suzuki actually has a different and preferred method of measuring the float height while installed on the bike with fuel in the bowls using their suzuki float height gauge tool. It's a crappy time consuming method but it is "by the book"

But it isn't a way to SET floats, just to measure them.
 
It really just measures the fuel level in the bowls..It will only give you a "relative idea" as to where the floats are set at. Thats why i see it as just a sort of confirmation test once you do them.
 
yea they are way off. I tried to do it the lazy way and adjust the floats without taking off the carbs. Got them adjusted and went to put the bowls back on then dropped the screw in a evil spot. Ran out of time so I'll find that damn screw tomarrow and test it out but the floats were all way too low. So close!
 
So i took the carbs off and adjusted the floats. Now there is no gas going into thea bowles even on prime. So i tried again this time spraying carb cleaner in the fuel line to test it before i put the carbs on and for some reason i can't get it right. So i'll try one last time after work and if i can't get it right it's going to the shop and the guy there said he'll show me how and do it for $30.
So i've adjusted the tab on the end that points down. But i can't figure out what the tab in the middle that touches the pin should be at.
 
Your floats are upside down. The tab points up. The other tab is what hits the needle. Adjust the needle tab to set the float level.
 
Ahhhh. Thank you. I've been bending the other tap. So i would assume the tab that points up should be at a right angle? I need to put it back in the position it needs to be then readjust the carbs? I'll take lots of pics when i get home in about an hr.
 
Sorry that there is no pics. My camera (or computer) is on crack and I can't get it to work. It's been one of those days. Can't get the bike to run so I was reduced to riding my wifes scooter to work. Then I got roped in to staying there 3 hrs late due to a day from hell. Then when I went to leave I approached a scooter that won't start so I'm stuck there till my wife can pick me up. Grrr

But enough bitchiing, I flipped the floats around and got one of them right but was unable to do the rest. For some reason when I went to adjust the others when it was at 24mm like the manual says the floats were all the way up. there was no slack or movement in the float. I don't know if I'm explaining this right. I'll try the photos again tomarrow but right now I think I'm done. No messing with anything tonight cause if one more thing goes wrong I think I might lose it.
Sorry bout my babbling had to get it out.
 
Doesn't sound like a great day at all. :(
Step away from the project and take some breaths.

Eric
 
I figured out how to explain my problem. So for example purposes, I took out the float needle valve and rested my float on the float needle valve seat. One would think that this if measued would be way too low. But when I measured it it read 26mm. I'm suppose to set my float height at 24mm. How can I make it any lower if 26 is as low as it will go??? I have something wrong here and I have no clue what it is. Here's some pics. Feel free to request more if you need a better angle or a close up or something.

in this pic I removed the float needle valve in order to see what the measurement was without it. One would expect it to be low but I measured 26mm with the float like this.
phonej015.jpg


With float needle valve

phonej009.jpg


phonej016.jpg


phonej017.jpg


phonej018.jpg
 
Dude...the floats are in upside down. Take them out and flatten the center tab flat with the rest of the brass part. Then start again. The little tab thats on the brass part at a 90 degree angle should be seen when the floats are installed...I dont see it in these pics. Also if you look at the tabs you can clearly see they are in wrong because theres a round witness mark from the needles when they were in the right way..
 
Your floats are upside down. The tab points up. The other tab is what hits the needle. Adjust the needle tab to set the float level.

I misunderstood this. I thought he ment the tap points up with the carbs on the bike. So I guess I had them right the first time. Ahh well I have the float issue resolved. I bent all the tabs back and started over and go figure it took me bout 10 min and they were all done.:)
So I fired up the bike let her warm up then adjusted the air screw per the carb tutorial. I decided to take her for a spin and all started really good. Idle was smooth and driving on the side street was good. So I headed down the farm road were the speed limit was 55. She did not like that one bit.:( As I was accelerating I kept getting then losing power and I kept hearing a spt sound. Spt, spt, spt from the carb area followed by a few soft pops from my exhaust. She was jumping around pretty violently.:eek: Scared the **** out of me. So I slow down and pull a u-turn to drive the few blocks back home and she stalled out. She fired right back up but I had to keep reving the engine cause it kept wanting to stall.
Thinking bout busting out the carb tune and tuning the carbs see if that resolves the issue.
Anything else I should check???
 
First of all, have you done the valves? If not dont waste the time on syncing because once you do the valves youll just go back and do the sync AGAIN..

1..do the valves
2..get started and check the timing..let it idle at around 1200 with a fan on the engine to move some air across it.
3..sync the crabs and reckeck the timing.

Where are the screws set at? Pilot ( bottom) should be about 7/8 to 1 turn out from skightly seated and the Mixture ( side ) should be about 1 3/4 to 2 out as a starting point. You do all the mixture adjusting from the mixture screws.

EDIT...Verify the needle size, the main and pilot jet sizes as well. Circlip should be on the center groove of the needle.
 
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OHHH...and look at the very base of that long brass tube sticking down ( bleeder tube )..theres a set of holes there that need to be cleaned out as well.
 
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