• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Im really tired of riding a semi working, poorly tuned bike, so...

  • Thread starter Thread starter lordcannon88
  • Start date Start date
L

lordcannon88

Guest
IM FIXING EVERYTHING! lol no seriously. i have everything off and am not putting it back together until it leaks not a drop of oil, the blinkers work correctly, and it idles consistently.

a little background - my bike is an 82 GS1100GL. But the pipes on it are longer than the shorty megaphones, i was told they were probably from an E or G model. I have an UNI foam air filter. I have sealed the airbox and have good intake manifolds and rings. I replaced the petcock, but before I did that fuel was always leaking into the crankcase but i changed the oil and fixed the leak before any damage could be done. This told me the needle valve and seat need replacing.

first off, carbs. the main Jet is a 115. I assume it should be bumped up at least one size to balance the effects of the Uni filter correct? also how would the non L model pipes effect jetting? Where could I get jets, and also needle valve and valve seats? what else would i need to get this bigger running smoothly? im going to get an oring kit from mr. barr as soon as i post this.
 
I ran a Uni filter in my airbox and it did not warrant a rejet.
I don't know if the baffles are the same on the different pipes. Does it have a crossover?
 
The stock filter is also oiled foam. You don't need to rejet with the Uni, and 115 is the proper main jet size.
 
chef1366 said:
I ran a Uni filter in my airbox and it did not warrant a rejet.
I don't know if the baffles are the same on the different pipes. Does it have a crossover?
Click to expand...


No rejet... YES! yes it has a crossover. the 2 and 3 pipes crossover in front of the oil filter.
 
Are the carbs spotless with a good soak and float height's correct, air screws set roughly 2+ turns out from lightly seated, and a solid bench sync in place? Battery fully charged and charging system healthy and working corrrectly? All need to be done in order to get it to run right. :-k
 
ok lets just break it down so it does not get overwhelming.
tuning is:
1. fuel
2. spark
3. compression

ok getting the carbs right is MAJOR that is why it takes 1-or 2 times over and over and over. but after they are correctly sealing and running--it is cake for the rest of the bike systems (keep notes of what you do how it worked)

oil sealing is straight forward -- remove - clean - reseal --

wiring should come last unless it is a ignition,running,starting issue. charging is easy to ignore 'til last using a test battery.turn signals have a lot of wires but stick with it there are less than 300 wires there total.mark them and you'll see less than 20 are turn signal related.

good luck and keep the faith.
 
Dave8338 said:
Are the carbs spotless with a good soak and float height's correct, air screws set roughly 2+ turns out from lightly seated, and a solid bench sync in place? Battery fully charged and charging system healthy and working corrrectly? All need to be done in order to get it to run right. :-k
Click to expand...

well the charging system is good. the bike ran but it was obviously just not tuned. i am a perfectionist so this is unacceptable. ive heard something somewhere about the middle cylinders needing to be a bit richer than the outer ones do to more heat?

the PO of my bike replaced most turn signals with leds and added vetter bags and a trunk and fairing, so the - what i believe to be stock - turn signal relay has issues with all this. anyone had any good luck with any brand of load balancers for the signals? do they make adjustable ones? when summer hits i will probably take the fairing off and put a random headlight bucket and signals on it. and probably as well take the trunk off which would remove 2 signals from the mix.

I can tell the shift gasket leaks, but it looks like theres another one somewhere above it slightly in the area of the bottom of the shaft boot. it is not gear oil though. what is involved with shift shaft gasket replacement?
 
lordcannon88 said:
anyone had any good luck with any brand of load balancers for the signals? do they make adjustable ones?
Click to expand...

I experimented with LED brake light and indicators. Ordered them along with a new solid state relay from here: http://www.customdynamics.com/trick_flasher.htm

I just had to squeeze on some connectors and it fit right in where I pulled the old relay out, if I regret it will take 30 seconds to swap back. After testing I found the brake light much brighter but that the LEDs were less bright through my colored glass so I went back to incandescents. But I kept the relay as the old one made a weird "whirrr-click" before beginning to flash, and I'm a fan of sealed solid state stuff. The new relay is a bit faster than stock but you can also buy an adjustable rate relay from them.

I think the price has increased since I bought them in July, but I think it's a better idea than a load balancer.
 
I can't remember who made it but there was an aftermarket company that made a 4 into 2 that paired 1 with 4 and 2 with 3 (pairing the 180 deg firing cylinders). when you say the 2 and 3 cross infront of the oil filter is there a cross over tube that bridges 2 and 3 or do the tubes actually cross one another?
 
76FJ55 said:
I can't remember who made it but there was an aftermarket company that made a 4 into 2 that paired 1 with 4 and 2 with 3 (pairing the 180 deg firing cylinders). when you say the 2 and 3 cross infront of the oil filter is there a cross over tube that bridges 2 and 3 or do the tubes actually cross one another?
Click to expand...

the 2 and 3 cylinders have a 1" or so crossover tube connecting them. the mufflers say suzuki on them so there obviously stock off of something.

ill post pictures tonite.

thanks for the info on the flashers ola. ill add it to my to buy list. lol
 
OK now for the second round of questions. I took the exhaust off to gain better access to the underside and I cleaned everything off and the only thing leaking is the shift shaft seal. It could be worse. I think Ive got a handle on changing that, but when I took off the exhaust it was very loosly put together. It seemes to be missing gaskets in some places. What kind of gaskets are there between the headers and the cyl head?

Also, my carbs were overflowing but I got a new petcock. But that leads to my next question: How can I tell if my intake needle valve and seat are too worn? Im rebuilding the carbs but im not sure whether to assume it was just the rings or buy all new needles and seats. I have also seen mentioned at some point a way to get the needle to seal again? I think it involved valve lapping compound, whatever that is. I'm still new at this! lol
 
lordcannon88 said:
OK now for the second round of questions. I took the exhaust off to gain better access to the underside and I cleaned everything off and the only thing leaking is the shift shaft seal. It could be worse. I think Ive got a handle on changing that, but when I took off the exhaust it was very loosly put together. It seemes to be missing gaskets in some places. What kind of gaskets are there between the headers and the cyl head?

Also, my carbs were overflowing but I got a new petcock. But that leads to my next question: How can I tell if my intake needle valve and seat are too worn? Im rebuilding the carbs but im not sure whether to assume it was just the rings or buy all new needles and seats. I have also seen mentioned at some point a way to get the needle to seal again? I think it involved valve lapping compound, whatever that is. I'm still new at this! lol
Click to expand...

Here's a recent thread about exhaust gaskets. Easy to find on ebay or your local dealership at about $2.00 apiece.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=136818

It's best to completely rebuild the carbs with new orings throughout, as you're doing. You can get new needle valves, but it's more than likely the rubber o-rings for the needle valve seat. If the needle valves are still nice and "springy" when you get them out, I wouldn't worry about it.
 
well the needle valve is def. springy so hopefully its just the oring. On the carb rebuild pdf it mentions using some sort of lube on the new orings. what kind of lube exactly does everyone use? I would hate to use the wrong one and have it eat my new rings.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top