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individual air filters

  • Thread starter Thread starter Blastr2783
  • Start date Start date
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Blastr2783

Guest
If I remove the airbox from my 850, is there anyway to make it run smoothly and with a semblence of factory power and reliability?
 
Sure, tune it properly.
It's a lot of work, especially if you don't know what is involved.
 
Hi,

If you get good pod filters (K&N or APE) and a Dynojet Stage 3 kit much of the pain will be taken out of the process. Use plug chops to fine tune each carb circuit. On an 850 there is little gain for all the money and effort but some people do it just for the looks or for the convenience of being able to get the carbs out easier.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
What year 850? Are you running through stock exhaust pipes?
Send a PM for jetting recommendations.

Daniel
 
The look is what I like, but not enough to sacrifice a smooth ride. Thanks for the info. Just ordered a clymer and downloaded your service manual. Decided to tear it down to the block and replace all the seals, o-rings, and gaskets. I am hoping to have it done for thunder beach in may. got a good source for a rebuild kit? Or is it one peice at a time kinda deal?
 
7981GS said:
What year 850? Are you running through stock exhaust pipes?
Send a PM for jetting recommendations.

Daniel
Click to expand...
Stock exhaust, stock carbs. got to tear them down and rebuild do to the previous owner(a pawn shop) leaving mixed gas in the tank and carbs for over five months. after a couple of days of disassembly found out it has a gas tank off a another model and I dont think the petcock will feed enough fuel.
 
We kinda need to know what year the bike is?
The 79's had different carbs than the other years.
 
Just to get you prepared to pay for your "look".

K&N filters for the CV carbs on '80 and newer 850s are $175.

Dynojet kits (scroll down about 3/4 for the 850) are $125.

You really interested in paying close to $300 for a "look"? :-k
Especially with all the work that will be involved?



BassCliff said:
... some people do it just for the looks or for the convenience of being able to get the carbs out easier.
Click to expand...
In my experience, I have found only two reasons for removing the carbs.
1. When you get the bike, you need to remove them to clean them and install new o-rings.
1a. For those who think they can shortcut the directions, they will remove them again to do the job right.
2. They get frustrated with the (minimal) hassle of playing with the airbox and decide to switch to pods, requiring rejetting.
2a. Another rejet.
2b. Another rejet.
2c. Yet another rejet.
2d. Almost running right.
2e. OK, I think I have it.
2f. Ooops. :oops:
2g.
2h.
etc.

Really, it started out as two reasons. :D

Once your carbs are PROPERLY cleaned and treated to new o-rings, AND if you keep fresh gas (or treated gas, if you have to winterize) in the carbs, there is no need for regular removal. Last spring, I took the carbs off my wife's bike for the first time in six years, but only because I was removing the head. Yeah, while they were off, I dipped them and re-ringed them, so I know they will be good for several more years. :dancing:

.
 
Blastr, throw that in your signature (User CP, Edit Signature) and you won't have to worry about including it again later. Also, throw your location in your profile and if some of us are close, we could help lend a hand.
 
IMHO, the only reason to put just pods is the ease of removal of the carbs. Much much easier. Any change to the intake or exhaust system requires a rejet, which is painful using the plug chop method. If you have access to a wideband (sniffer) it becomes much easier. It took me about 10-12 hours (computer analysis time included) and one set of plugs to tune my highly modified GPz using my sniffer, but most don't have one laying around like I do.
The 850, while a rock-solid bike once dialed in, is a tank, outweighing even larger displacement shafties. Any incremental increase in power (the real reason pods and a pipe should be added) will still be negated by the larger and lighter shafties.
I would recommend staying completely stock and sorting the bike out and dialing it in. I have ridden one that was perfectly dialed in and it was fantastic.
 
I've been thinking about going to pods for an entirely different reason-my airbox boots are all melted and deformed (look like they caught on fire at some point...I have no idea haha) and pods cost about the same. Then again, I don't have to deal with CV carbs.
 
koolaid_kid said:
I have ridden one that was perfectly dialed in and it was fantastic.
Click to expand...

Aw shucks, thanks... :D



Easier carb removal/replacement is not a valid reason to go to pods on a shaftie -- they're very easy to remove, even with the airbox in place. The airbox doesn't add any time and little effort to the process.

On other models, it's true that the airbox turns carb removal into a nightmare struggle. But it's easy as pie on the 850+ shafties.
 
Suzuki spent a lot of time and money to get the airbox right on your bike, it runs best with it on and there are also practical reasons for an airbox.

The airbox keeps rain off the filter.

The airbox provides a large reservoir of stable air for the engine to draw from that is unaffected by turbulence created moving down the road.

The airbox has small velocity stacks which keep pulses from adjacent carbs away from the throat openings of other carbs. This also straightens the airflow around the airjets and provides better metering.

The airbox keeps hot air from the engine away from the carb intakes, especially when idling in traffic.

The airbox provides a capacitive quantity of air which resonates at key frequencies. This resonance actually boosts the air intake a little and provides more power.

The airbox reduces intake noise greatly. I know that means nothing to motorcycle riders but it's part of what it does.

Pods do make it easier to rejet over and over again, which isn't necessary if you have an airbox in the first place. If for some reason you remove the carbs monthly then I guess pods are a good choice. And with pods you will be taking the carb rack off a few times.

Stick with the airbox. Get a new filter and seal any leaks it might have.
 
bwringer said:
Aw shucks, thanks... :D
Click to expand...
I did not want to mention your name without your permission, but yes, your 850 is awesome. It reminded me of a finely tuned or even new GS750 chain bike, and I owned one in 1978 so I should know.
bwringer said:
Easier carb removal/replacement is not a valid reason to go to pods on a shaftie -- they're very easy to remove, even with the airbox in place. The airbox doesn't add any time and little effort to the process.

On other models, it's true that the airbox turns carb removal into a nightmare struggle. But it's easy as pie on the 850+ shafties.
Click to expand...
On my GS it takes me roughly 1/2 to 1 hour to remove or install the carbs because of the airbox. And the airbox and all the rubber bits fore and aft are brand new parts. When I had the old 1983 rubber bits on it, it took even longer because they did not flex enough.
 
Great advice

Great advice

Thanks for all this information. I will be sticking to the stock air box with new weather stripping and painting it with bedliner to seal all the leaks and give it a nice flat black look(not a chrome fan).
 
duaneage said:
The airbox provides a large reservoir of stable air for the engine to draw from ...
Click to expand...
So THAT is where the horsepower comes from. :D

rofl1.gif


.
 
Steve said:
So THAT is where the horsepower comes from. :D

rofl1.gif


.
Click to expand...
Not at all. When the bike passes a ranch, all the horsepoop is vacuumed into the airbox, and allocated as required.
While I agree with most of the statements in that post, I am convinced (and have proven to myself) that pods have their place. The main downside I see to pods is the noise, if you have the capability to tune either. Yeah, tuning sucks, but it is not a daily exercise. Even if you use the plug chop method it can still be done.
 
CV carbs are easier to jet than slide carbs IMO.

For my GS850 with pods I ended up with needles one or two clip positions higher than stock (Australian delivered model), screws 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 out from lightly seated and mainjets around 18% over the stock Mikuni items. (Eg 100 mainjet becomes a 118)

That thing rode very well and I regret selling it.

- boingk
 
boingk said:
CV carbs are easier to jet than slide carbs IMO.

For my GS850 with pods I ended up with needles one or two clip positions higher than stock (Australian delivered model), screws 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 out from lightly seated and mainjets around 18% over the stock Mikuni items. (Eg 100 mainjet becomes a 118)

That thing rode very well and I regret selling it.

- boingk
Click to expand...
Thank you brother
 
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