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Inline Filter

  • Thread starter Thread starter b1ackd3ath
  • Start date Start date
B

b1ackd3ath

Guest
I've got to thank you for the response I have been getting to
my questions. I am just starting out with no previous mechanical
experience. The 82 1100 G is running really rough until it gets
to about 4,000 RPMs. I've changed the plugs and run various
cleaners through the gas. I pull the plugs and they are white
so it is lean. I am definitely not ready to clean or adjust the
carbs yet but last night I took off the seat and looked at the
tubes running to the petcock.

The one coming off the petcock going to the middle of the
carburetors was really made up of two hoses one going over
the top of the other. I couldn't see it too well but it looked
something like the attached picture. Could this be an inline
fuel filter and is this where it would go?

Also, I have bought the exact suzuki shop manual for my bike
but it doesn't cover removing the tank. How do I go about
this? (I want to check the hoses to make sure there are no
kinks, etc)

Tony
 
Tank removal:

Take the seat off. Remove the 2 bolts at the back of the tank.

Raise the back of the tank a few inches. Disconnect the fuel line and vacuum line from the petcock. Find the two wires connecting the tank level sending unit and disconnect those ( some kind of plug connector in the wires near the back of the tank). Slide the tank backwards off of the front holders (round rubber bumper kinda thingies). Make sure you don?t lose those rubber holders if they fall off the frame.
 
If it is an inline fuel filter, I would check the tank for rust and debris, take care of it if there is some, and ditch the inline filter for a contiuous fuel line. Fuel filters can make your bike run to lean at high speeds, and should not be nessecary.
 
Should I be looking for any kind of special tubing at the auto supply
store to replace it... I just want to have it on hand in case
 
nope nothing special just ask for fuel line




Justr curious where are you? Hartford Ct ?
 
When I bought my bike it had a inline filter and at high speed the engine bogged right down. After removing it, ran like a rocket. There's a fine nylon screen to catch debris connected to the petcock so a inline filter is not needed. Ted
 
Thanks for the help guys. I was able to get the tank off and at the end get everything back together. It did have an inline fuel filter but I was concerned about yanking off the part that attaches to the carbs. It is pretty far down there and I didn't think I could get the new hose on there without taking the carbs out so I cut the filter and used it to bridge the two pieces of hose.

I took it out for a spin and got about a quarter of a mile away and then it died. I thought about it and realized I didn't put the vacuum tube back on the petcock so I put the petcock to prime and was able to ride back. Even after I hooked that back up, it didn't make a difference and the bike still runs really rough at low rpms and backfires/pops on decel.

The new thing is that I think there is gas in the crankcase. I've read all of the posts on getting the bike on the center stand but couldn't get it up there and I think I am at least above average in strength. I put it on the side stand and the oil release on the bottom of the bike is just stuck. I am not sure if it was because I am hitting it with the rachet from a weird angle or it is just glued but now I am concerned about riding it at all... Any suggestions?
 
You are still restricting fuel flow with the bridge. You need to get a straight 5/16" fuel line. I have not been able to do this without removing the carbs or at least rear air box. Also make sure when you put it back together that your fuel line isn't too long and gets kinked when you lower the tank. Are the hinges of your center stand seized? If not you need to use your weight on the foot peg of the center stand while pulling the bike towards you.
 
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I will try the straight hose before it goes to the shop. I forgot to mention that when I put the tank back on, I initially forgot to put the vacuum hose back on the pet cock. I took the bike a few blocks and it ended up dying. I had to put the engine on prime to get it back. Now, I have read that the fuel system is of the gravity type. Does that say anything that it died without the vacuum hose? What does that hose do??
 
b1ackd3ath said:
I will try the straight hose before it goes to the shop. I forgot to mention that when I put the tank back on, I initially forgot to put the vacuum hose back on the pet cock. I took the bike a few blocks and it ended up dying. I had to put the engine on prime to get it back. Now, I have read that the fuel system is of the gravity type. Does that say anything that it died without the vacuum hose? What does that hose do??
Click to expand...

That hose creates a vacuum in the petcock, which allows fuel to flow on "on" and "res". So it sounds like your petcock is working properly. When you put it on prime, it will free flow (no vacuum needed).
 
Inline in mine too

Inline in mine too

New to me '83 gs1100G idles rough, may have charging issues but I'll get to that stuff...Some PO has installed an inline filter. She just don't pull like she should and until reading this thread I didn't give the filter much thought. No only that it's a small, small filter. The intake and outtake must me 1/2 the size of the fuel line. I'll take it out, replace the line and Let you know the results...
 
I was thinking about checking that on mine. I cut back the spark plug wires a little bit on the 4 plug boots but one of the boots still looked a little corroded inside. Have you tried any measurements with a multimeter? Post what you are trying and results and we can compare notes...
 
Haven't gotten to the charging issue yet, but when I get the time I'll post about it for sure. Can say that riding the bike seems to drain the battery, and reving the engine at idle does not raise the reading on the multimeter.
 
If the vacuum line to the petcock isn't hooked up, the #2 carb will be sucking in extra air, causing #2 to run very lean and leading to all sorts of ugly problems. You can't just leave it hanging there unhooked.

Is your petcock working correctly yet? If not, skip a few beers, packs of smokes, or whatever your favorite vice is for a few weeks and buy a new one so you can forget about petcock problems for another 20 years. It's $50 - $60 well spent, although some here will happily spend years trying to make a 25 year old petcock function properly.
 
My tip for connecting a new fuel line to your carbs, without having to pull the carbs out of the machine:

1. Using a pen-knife, slice out a small 'bevel' from the inside of the end of the 5/16" fuel hose that you want to push onto the barbed T-piece between carbs 2 and 3.
2. Put a smudge of grease/ Vaseline/ whatever on the end of the T-piece.
3. Get a length of 1/4" rod.
4. Put it up the middle of your 5/16" fuel hose.
5 Boil the kettle, and pour hot water over the hose end for about 10secs. This makes it nice and soft.
6. Put the end of the 1/4" rod down into the barbed T-piece fitting between the carbs.
7. Now simply push/slide the hose down the rod and push it onto the end of the T-piece. (It is your piece of rod which enables you to keep the hose straight, and stops it from kinking sideways when you push, and so you are able to push it onto the T-piece fitting.)
8. When the hose is seated onto the T-piece, simply withdraw the 1/4" rod.
9. Bob's your uncle.

Mike.
 
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Isn't step # 5 much easier with a heat gun (says the wise ass)?
 
Isn't step # 5 much easier with a heat gun (says the wise ass)?
Click to expand...
It is if you have one! Which I dont...:cry:
Trust me though, hot water from the kettle brings things up to heat nicely.
 
Man, what I would've done to have that info when I was still screwing with an airbox.
 
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