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Installing "All Balls" Tapered Bearings

  • Thread starter Thread starter spyrral
  • Start date Start date
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spyrral

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I'm replacing the bearings on my 1977 gs550. I purchased the "All Balls" replacement bearings, but I'm not sure quite how to install them.

1. Which way is up? Does the metal ring which slips over the bearings face up, or the other way around? Is it the same for the top and bottom?

2. Once I've got them installed properly and the whole thing is put back together, how do I properly tighten and torque the locknut? The Clymer manual, which is all I've got to go on, said to use a hammer and punch to take the locknut off, but that doesn't seem like it'll work as well the other way around.

I'm a newbie, as I'm sure you can tell from my posts, so any tips would be appreciated.
 
My understanding is that these "All Balls" kits can be installed in a half-dozen places on a bike... where is your kit destined to go?
 
Ah, my bad. I'm trying to do the steering head bearing replacement. So, what I didn't realize is that I have to knock out the old races before these go in. And I guess that's a real bitch.

Most of the explanations I've seen for getting the races out if you don't have the special tools involve use some kind of welding tequnque, and that's just not in the cards for me.

Is it possible to get actual bearings, and to sand out the pits in the races? If not, what do you guys recommend I do?
 
I've removed the old races using a drift and hammer...no problem.
 
I've done the same, getting the new ones in was a TIGHT fit, but I still got it.
 
I frequently have to remove old races and install new ones. I use a long drift punch and a ball-peen hammer. Start the drift in any location and begin tapping, moving around the circumference of the old race as you go. Tap and rotate, tap and rotate. The old race will fall out without damaging the surface that the new race has to go into... that being the important thing. If you simply drive the old race out without moving the drift punch, you'll actually force the tube into an oval shape as that race turns sideways. That makes for an interesting attempt at installing a new, perfectly round race. I install the new race in the same fashion, preferrably using a brass or bronze drift punch at this point to avoid damaging the edge or surface of the new race.
 
Thanks for the tips on getting the races off. As I've said in other posts, I'm a complete n00b mechanically, I've basically been a computer nerd my whole life and this is the first time I've dine anything like this.

Just to cover my bases, I've got a couple more questions:

1. the "All Balls" replacement kit doesn't seem to sit as tight as the existing races. Is this correct, and does this mean they'll be easier to seat then regular races?

2. Assuming I want to keep my old races and not put on the tapered bearing, where can I find replacement ball bearings in the correct size and material? Everywhere I've looked online only sells the "All Balls" stuff.

Thanks again guys, with you help maybe I'll get through this job :)
 
My new races were tighter than the old ones, but I could have gobbered it up a little taking the old ones out.

You should be able to get OE style bearings from Bikebandit.com.
 
go with the tapered bearings, much better suited to the job than balls. IMHO

One tip is to put the new races in a zip lock bag and stick them in the ice tray overnight to shrink them:-D , I do this and it is never a prob getting them to seat properly.
 
Try to work the old race out in one piece. If it will come out you can use it to drive the new bearing home. If not, you can probably match up a socket with the same outside diameter.
 
What about the races on the steering shaft??

What about the races on the steering shaft??

I picked up another steering head from a local parts yard and it had the old race stuck on the stem... how do you remove this easily?? I will be replacing my bearings soon and this will help me in avoiding problems.


JP
 
I can't picture what you have and what you need to do with it. Can you post a photo of it ?
 
GS550joe said:
I picked up another steering head from a local parts yard and it had the old race stuck on the stem... how do you remove this easily?? I will be replacing my bearings soon and this will help me in avoiding problems.


JP
Click to expand...


If all else fails, you can CAREFULLY cut a slot in the old bearing race with a cutting wheel on a Dremel tool. Don't go all the way through -- just make the slot as deep as you can without cutting into the steering stem.

Then whack the slot with a colt chisel. The race should then split at the slot you cut, and usually you can then remove the race easily. (They're made from rather brittle hardeded steel.) The split will be quite small and hard to see, but you'll probably hear the sound of the hammer and chisel change when it finally lets go.

If you're sure the race is cracked but it still doesn't want to move. you'll need to do the same on the opposite side of the bearing and remove the race in two pieces.
 
Thanks

Thanks

That was what I was thinking.. I had to replace the front forks after I hit a van.... they came off a later model gs650 and the bottom race on the stem would not knock off... and i was thinking that I might run to the same issue on the current steering stem when I change them

Joe
 
A ball bearing is designed to take an axial load with some minor thrust load, where head bearings need to take a thrust load with moderate axial loads, which a tapered bearing is perfectly suited for. The only thing that the ball bearing units have going for them is that they are easier to adjust the preload on (clearance). However, since the head bearings are not rotating even one full turn having to little clearance isn't that much of a deal, actually as long as you can safely turn the bearings while riding, you're fine. I've even worked on some wheel motors that required installing the bearings with NEGATIVE clearances, and they had huge huge loads and were run day in and day out at several hundred rpms. That being said, don't do that to your car wheel bearings, the hydrualic bearings I spoke of were in a circulating hydraulic oil bath since they were connected to case.
 
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