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intake boots

  • Thread starter Thread starter rideOn
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rideOn

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so far, so good on my valve shims and intake boots. only need one shim and i got the boots out with a little work from my hand impact tool. the old o-rings were all one piece but real 'crunchy' when i pulled them out.

to make sure i put them back in right, all i stick in the boots is the new o-ring, eh? there was so much crud on the flange toward the outside of the old o-rings that it almost looked like paper gasket debris.

the boots are still pliable, but #2 has some coating coming off the metal flange/base. i don't see any cracks or dry-rot on any of them.
 
You can try just new o-rings if the boots are still pliable.
 
Like DRgonzo said, as long as the boots are pliable you should be good. Just be sure to clean both surfaces really good. These things are super sensative to air leaks. New O-rings are a must, however. Also, be sure #3 stays in the boot. That guy likes to slide out and you'll never see it if it's close to the tensioner.
 
is it safe to smear a little grease on the o-ring to keep it in place? will grease damage the o-ring
 
It's an o-ring designed to withstand extreme heat and gasoline vapor.

How the hell would grease hurt it? :D

Grease away!

The residue you found may have been some sort of sealer someone tried to splurp in there, or maybe just plain old engine mung. When you install the new o-rings, nothing is needed other than perhaps a coating of grease or oil and a few globs of grease to help hold it in place.

For anyone else watching, make sure you use OEM o-rings or Viton o-rings. Regular buna-n o-rings from the hardware store will disintegrate pretty quickly.
 
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thanks, i got the o-rings from cycleorings.com. fast delivery and the price is right. they dry-fit perfectly.
 
what is the torque spec for the intake boots. not seeing it in manual
 
i did find a link on bikecliffs for bwringer's fine tutorials and apparently hand-tight is good.
 
got the boots back on and made a discovery. i never noticed, maybe because i've never taken them off before, but the boots are angled or directional. i kept them in the same orientation as i took them off, all lined up and noticed the difference. they were all headed in the same direction previously, so i swapped #1 and #2 so they all look to point toward the middle. the carbs slipped back in easier than ever before...even without me singing the 4-letter chorus. does this sound ok. i don't recall seeing a reference such as directions or angles.
 
what is the torque spec for the intake boots. not seeing it in manual

The manual gives a general spec for all 6mm fasteners, which I think is something like 7 foot-pounds.

Unless you spent a couple hundred bucks, you do NOT have a torque wrench that reads reliably that low, so just one hand and a medium-rare grunt with no tongue. :D
 
got the boots back on and made a discovery. i never noticed, maybe because i've never taken them off before, but the boots are angled or directional. i kept them in the same orientation as i took them off, all lined up and noticed the difference. they were all headed in the same direction previously, so i swapped #1 and #2 so they all look to point toward the middle. the carbs slipped back in easier than ever before...even without me singing the 4-letter chorus. does this sound ok. i don't recall seeing a reference such as directions or angles.

There's a teensy R and L molded into the boots... more details here:

http://bwringer.com/gs/intakeorings.html

ior_02.jpg
 
There's a teensy R and L molded into the boots... more details here:
thanks, that's how i put them in. worked great. i'm running into 'things' that i recognize being wrong, now that i've been reading the forum. while adjusting the floats, i discovered the lack of o-rings on the pilot jets and the gasket joining the two airbox pieces was out, as well as the springs holding the airbox boots in. i got rubber sealer to tighten up the airbox today. i'm expecting l'il blackie to be a beast when i get 'er back together. just waiting on a shim from z1.
 
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