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is my R/R really toast and if so what should I replace it with?

  • Thread starter Thread starter VapeMaster
  • Start date Start date
V

VapeMaster

Guest
Hey guys, so I got the new electrosport stator in place an still no consistent charge so i pulled the R/R and gave it another testing and got the following results:

red vs yellow : all OL (aka above 1.5V) on diode test

red vs yellow with switched leads: ~0.35V on all connections

black vs yellow: all OL (aka above 1.5V) on diode test

:!: black vs yellow with switched leads: ALSO OL (aka above 1.5V) ON DIODE TEST!! :!:

I assume that's a bad thing...

also the diode test of the black wire vs the R/R casing is OL! I assume that's a bad thing as well?

So i assume ya'll are going to tell me i need to invest in a new R/R which isn't the worst thing in the world, if i have replaced the going south stator and the all the way south R/R I assume I'll have some peace of mind with the realiability of the charging system but I was wondering what I should replace it with? I might be able to dig up something locally (Santa Cruz) or should I invest in a Compufire or Shindengen or hunt down an appropriate Honda Unit to do a a quick conversion on?

any help you could offer quick would be great!


Thanks guys!
 
There are many R/R's you can swap with - I believe there is a comprehensive list on Bass Cliff's site... or somewhere here if you search.

I'm in a similar predicament building the electrical system from scrap on mine - Since my parts are all old I'm considering going this route http://www.boyerbransden.com/PBdynamo.html
about $120
 
I have one of the larger (best) stock RR's on the shelf that's tested if you're interested... :)
 
I just spent some time on eBay these past few days looking at suitable candidates from the list provided above by Koolaid_Kid and BassCliff. The SH530-12 seems to be plentiful, cheap and available from newer bikes.
I ended up buying one from a 2002 Kawasaki Ninja 250 for $22 shipped.
 
Wish I had seen that! i just picked up a SH538 from a GL1100 for $38 shipped. it's the 8 wire beasty so i'll be braiding and soldering a mega hot lead for my battery..
In the mean time if found a local shop that had an 84 GS550 (mines an 83) parts bike and he sold me the r/r off of it for $20. I finally did everything right, wired my own cables direct from the stator and soldered them all into place and cleaned and dielectric greased all the components and now she charges like a champ! a little high, it'll creep up to ~15.1 at idle but I assume the MOSFET variant will take care of that when it arrives. The r/r off the parts bike is one of the small ones and man does that thing get hot! it was mounted on the side of the bike i took it off of and my mount is right behind the battery case, very poor airflow so i rolled up some cardboard and tucked it under the seat to make a little airscoop, definitely less than ideal but all will be well next week when that shindengen comes in..
 
BassCliff said:
Hi,
Click to expand...
BassCliff said:
CLICK HERE for a list of compatible stators and FET regulator/rectifiers for the GS850 and other bikes.
Modifying a Honda R/R for GS Use

Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
Click to expand...


Hi, I read the how to on modifying or wiring up a honda type R/R for use on a GS and I have a couple of questions for you.

Looking at my son's '85 gs700e, I see that it has the Stock R&R and probably the stock stator as well. Which makes me cringe. It's pretty much a dead certainty that I'll have to upgrade all of the electrics this winter, (throw another project on the fire, Alex...).

So, A big question is "How much can I upgrade the capacity of the system?"
Is there a high output Stator/rotor combination available?
OR should I look at a higher capacity battery?

Its pretty much a done deal that I'm going to need a new mosfet R&R before all this is done. My question about the R&R is, why even bother with a sensing wire setup?
I changed the R&R on my bike (a honda vfr800) from the Honda from the 8 wire setup to a seven wire unit (double + and double grounds) and I have yet to see another R&R on a VFR800 have better output (13.5V at idle and 14.3V by 2200).
Also why not wire the red positive wire(s) coming from the R&R, thru and inline fuse, then over directly onto the battery?
leave its old battery cable and terminal to power the main fuse panel.
You say the best way to handle the ground wire is to connect it directly to the battery, so why not the positive(s) as well.
Then there will be the least voltage drop between the output of the R&R and the battery, right?

 
you can hook it direct to the positive with an inline fuse--im pretty sure I hooked mine up just as you are describing, but its been a while and i'd have to look---I know the ground goes strait to battery ground and there is an inline fuse on the positive---been working great for over a year now.
 
JES_vfr said:
Hi, I read the how to on modifying or wiring up a honda type R/R for use on a GS and I have a couple of questions for you.

Looking at my son's '85 gs700e, I see that it has the Stock R&R and probably the stock stator as well. Which makes me cringe. It's pretty much a dead certainty that I'll have to upgrade all of the electrics this winter, (throw another project on the fire, Alex...).

So, A big question is "How much can I upgrade the capacity of the system?"
Is there a high output Stator/rotor combination available?
OR should I look at a higher capacity battery?

Its pretty much a done deal that I'm going to need a new mosfet R&R before all this is done. My question about the R&R is, why even bother with a sensing wire setup?
I changed the R&R on my bike (a honda vfr800) from the Honda from the 8 wire setup to a seven wire unit (double + and double grounds) and I have yet to see another R&R on a VFR800 have better output (13.5V at idle and 14.3V by 2200).
Also why not wire the red positive wire(s) coming from the R&R, thru and inline fuse, then over directly onto the battery?
leave its old battery cable and terminal to power the main fuse panel.
You say the best way to handle the ground wire is to connect it directly to the battery, so why not the positive(s) as well.
Then there will be the least voltage drop between the output of the R&R and the battery, right?
Click to expand...

you should do a search
 
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