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Is this a normal size for a R/R (pic)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Tukn20s
  • Start date Start date
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Tukn20s

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I was just wondering if this is a normal size for a single unit r/r. I just received this in mail to replace my two unit r/r and its not going work with the space I have. If its not, I'm going to return it and find a different one closer to the size I currently have. Thanks.
 
Will it fit under the battery box?
Some of them are located there stock.

eric
 
Yes fairly typical for a modern one. Size is good... helps to dissipate the heat
 
Hi,

attachment.php


The part on top look like a rectifier only. The part on the bottom is an integrated rectifier/regulator unit with extra cooling fins. Hence the size difference. It should would like gangbusters! ;)

Need a wiring diagram?

HondaRRconnections.jpg


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
The top one is off my bike and yes it is the rectifier only. The regulator is about the same size. I was going to replace my individual units with a integrated as many have recommended.

My bike and frame have been modified quite a bit so I am pretty limited on space. So I don't know what I am going to do at this point. Would a single unit of an older bike be any smaller or are all the integrated units larger like that?
 
Lots of them are smaller but often turn out to be inferior in performance in that they overheat and burn up. The bigger the better really but you should be able to find something about the size of the palm of your hand maybe 2 or 2.5" square. The Shindengens typically used on Hondas have a very good reputation for being robust.

what did that big one come off of? I haven't seen one quite that large before.

Good luck with it.
spyug
 
Not sure what its from. It was listed to fit my bike. Its a new unit, not sure if its off a particular bike or not.

Any recommendations for one more manageable in size but still of good quality?
 
spyug said:
Lots of them are smaller but often turn out to be inferior in performance in that they overheat and burn up. The bigger the better really but you should be able to find something about the size of the palm of your hand maybe 2 or 2.5" square. The Shindengens typically used on Hondas have a very good reputation for being robust.

what did that big one come off of? I haven't seen one quite that large before.

Good luck with it.
spyug
Click to expand...

+1 for Shindengens. There's a list of compatible R/R's on this sight somewhere...
 
finishelectrical002.jpg


Mine was used on a Kawasaki ATV in it's previous life. It's larger than the Suzuki original. I had to make a "special" bracket to mount it. The left side electrical panel didn't have enough room. I chose the right side as an alternative mounting position as it gets lots of airflow and cooling there.
 
Last edited:
I ended up keeping the r/r. I didn't want the down time of returning it and then ordering another. I relocated the r/r to another spot that had more room and provides better air flow and cooling. I figured this was something that should be done anyway.

Now that I have everything wired and the bike running, I'm only getting a reading of high 12 volts under throttle. There is minimal change between idle and acceleration. Does this sound correct? It seems that most of the articles I have read state 14-15 volts.
 
The voltage remains up as long as the throttle is up. It does not fluctuate with a steady throttle. However, it never exceeds 12.8-12.9 volts. The r/r is wired directly to the battery. Also, I just finished fixing a lot of the wiring and installing new connectors. The bike was rewired by the PO and I had fix some things that were incorrect. It was reaching 16+ volts so that was the reason for the new r/r.
 
You are not charging adequately- should hit 14 to 15 volts above 3k rpm. Any numbers on this new R/R ? how many wires to it?
 
You are not charging. If it was rectifying but not regulating, you would be back on the 16V or so. Therefore, I would check the connections to the stator, and check the AC output of the stator.
 
You need to clean and check all electrical connections. Several on this site have melted connectors when the regulator malfunctions.

With such a low change in output, it is most likely a stator problem, but you won't get very reliable test results with dirty connections.

These are the best fix-it/trouble-shooting guides for your situation.

Make sure the battery is charged before doing any checking, then start here. Print a copy of the procedure and write down the results on each section so when you come back to the forum, you know exactly what you did and what the results were.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=1272192#post1272192

If you don't know where to go from there, post the results back up with what you did/results were and others can help. Otherwise go here and print and write again.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=152769&highlight=charging+system+health

Posplayr knows his stuff. Again, if you don't know what the results mean, post them up.

I believe you have a damaged stator, but go through the tests to make sure.
 
I guess I should have posted this in my other thread about testing/fixing the electrical system but too late now.

I went back through and retested the stator and new r/r. The stator checks out fine. I am getting 1.5 ohms between each leg with the bike off and the 75+ ac volts with the bike running under throttle. The r/r didn't check out exaclty as described in the troubleshooting test but maybe it's because its a different brand. The battery was purchased a week ago and is brand new. 95% of the wiring has been redone with new connectors. I did double check them and everything seems fine as far as that goes.

So here is what I cam up with after rechecking everything. Again with the bike running the voltage remains under 13 volts at any rpm. However, when I check the output(red wire) from the r/r it is producing 13.5 volts at idle and 14+ under throttle as it should be. So that appears to be working properly. But for some reason, when connected to the battery it's only getting the 12.xx volts. The connection from the battery to the r/r checks out fine, but to be sure I ran a new lead from the r/r to the battery. Same results....13.5 volts disconnected from the battery and 12.5 connected. So does anyone know what might be the problem because I am lost?

Tom...the r/r is a five wire unit and I have not ran across any numbers on it.
 
The R/R seems to be at fault- unloaded it's OK, but connected to battery (and asked to produce) it falls on its face. You said your old R/R was overcharging which means your stator was/is producing, so try a different R/R.
 
So I received a refund on the R/R and ordered another from rmstator. I hooked up the three stator wires and ground, and fired up the bike. I am only getting .84 volts at any rpm range. Also, I know the r/r gets warm but this one was too hot to touch within a minute (not sure if this is normal).

Needless to say, I am very frustrated right now. Not sure if I am doing something wrong or just having bad luck. I rechecked the stator and it is still working fine. Does anyone have and thoughts, suggestions, comments?

As for rmstator....I ordered from them because it was one of the companies listed so I assumed it was a safe bet. However, after doing some research I see they don't have the best reviews around here. I hope I didn't screw up.

There is a big bike show this weekend that I am 'hoping' to attend, so I need to get the bike going in the next two days. I was thinking of picking up a used r/r for temporary use from a local metric bike yard. Any suggestions on what would be a simple swap? The bikes available are mostly 70's-80's
 
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