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Is this stator bad?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Theo
  • Start date Start date
T

Theo

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Ok so I checked my stator tonight like outlined in the stator papers and I'm not sure about my readings. I should also mention that the motor is off the bike and I purchased the bike in a non-running condition so I could only do the passive tests. There were no wires shorting to ground but when I checked the resistance of each phase, I got a reading of 2.7 ohms for each phase. So does that mean it's bad? I know it might be difficult to determine from just those readings but since the engine is already off the frame, it would be nice if I can fix it now. Thanks.
-Theo
 
Replacing the stator is no big deal when the engine is mounted in the frame. Before spending money on a new stator, get the bike running. A bad stator may be the least of your problems. I'm really not sure what your readings mean, since the stator paper tests were meant to be tested on a bike with a charging system installed.
 
In the world of electronics, the readings you got mean it's good.

Although if the stator papers call for a lower reading (not sure and not looked and can't remember the exact readings) this could also mean bad connectors on the end of your stator wires causing a high resistance, or a wonky out of calibration volt meter.

At least, with your readings you know it isn't open nor shorted.
 
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Your readings mean there's a good chance that it's OK.

The exact resistance readings don't matter a whole lot, as long as they're within reason and the same between all three pairs.

It's also possible for a stator to only fail when in use -- for example, the thermal stress causes the insulation or a wire to pull apart only when hot.

So get it running and go from there.
 
A stator can test fine on the bench, but fail in situ. A stator can be going well one day, and drop its bundle the next. A stator might never give you a problem. You can rely on a Suzuki GS stator to be unreliable; this is a sad fact of the moral universe which we inhabit.

Ergo, there is no such thing as a "good" stator; all stators are EVIL. :D
 
I agree with most of the above, but would also say If I had the stator off and the insulating plastic of the stator looked old , brittle or worse burnt I would just go ahead and change it. It is at least old and probably got hot. Of course if it is a nice shiny blue one then button it up and complete the rest of the charging checks and precautions.

They are a little pricey, but if you are short of cash there are also some know corsses from other manufactures that can be had cheap. (Chef1366 knows)

Part of the evil as tfb mentions is bad connections at the R/R can cause the stator to fry.
 
Thanks for all of the advice. Yeah, I'm trying to not spend anything to get this bike running again, so whatever I can leave original I will. The stator wires look to be in good shape; still nice and shiny. So I'll leave it and hope for the best. Thanks again.
-Theo
 
Wow that stator looks bad. After seeing that, mine looks brand new.

stator.jpg
 
tfb said:
Ergo, there is no such thing as a "good" stator; all stators are EVIL. :D
Click to expand...
That's nice to know, but evidently, the EVIL in "Freebie's" stator is in check. :o

I have not had the stator cover off for a visual check (was holding off to see the outcome of charging checks), but the wires coming out of the harness are the original colors. The wires on the R/R are also the original colors. The connectors all appear to be the original bullets. :eek: Except for the bypass of the loop up toward the (non-existant) headlight switch, it all appeared STOCK. Charging wasn't bad at 13.6, but a separate wire from the R/R to the battery took that to 14.2. :dancing:

.
 
Steve said:
It also looks to be a replacement. :o

See the three yellow wires? :-k

.
Click to expand...

That's interesting if that's true because the PO said he didn't touch the charging system at all. Maybe the PPO changed it.
 
Theo said:
That's interesting if that's true because the PO said he didn't touch the charging system at all. Maybe the PPO changed it.
Click to expand...

That is kinda why it is a good idea to go through most everything so you know what U got. Sometimes you are lucky like this and others the PO/PPO or PPPO screwed it up :mad:.
 
Theo said:
....
.... There were no wires shorting to ground but when I checked the resistance of each phase, I got a reading of 2.7 ohms for each phase. So does that mean it's bad?
....-Theo
Click to expand...

No. Does not mean its bad.

To say about the same thing as others have said:
- As long as all three are about the same and just a few ohms (and not zero, and not infinite) then that is a good test that the coils are not shorted together.
- Does not mean that something might happen as it warms up or as it produces some voltage or as it puts out more current.
- Suzuki manaul just says to check continuity (doesnt state specific ohms).
- Stator papers says 0.5 to 2 ohms, but maybe that is for a Suzuki stock stator.
- You have a aftermarket replacement stator (as seen in photo).
- Your picture seems to be okay.
- a bettter test is the open circuit no load test where measure the voltage with engine running, but you cant do that.

Overall, no known problem with stator.
Reinstall it, and attend to all the other stuff you have there.

.
.
 
Beforemeasuring the stator resistance touch the leads together real tight and see what the meter reads. Usually they read .2 to .8 ohms. This should be subtracted from the values you get.

I think your readings are a bit high, indicating some extra resistance on the legs. But the real test is when the bike is running, If you get 60 -85 volts it's good enough. Some get even more, like 100 a leg.

But since it's on the bench I would replace it and keep this one as a spare. Even new stators are defective or short lived sometimes. I travel with a spare stator just in case, Earlfor's sad tale of tractor batteries and chargers convinced me to be prepared.
 
duaneage said:
Earlfor's sad tale of tractor batteries and chargers convinced me to be prepared.
Click to expand...
I guess I missed that story. :(

However, the previous owner of my Wing earned the name "Deep Cycle" on the last day of a vacation trip several years ago. The alternator failed about 200 or so miles from home, so he stopped at a Wal-Mart, bought a deep-cycle marine battery and some jumper cables. He put the battery in the cooler on the tongue of the trailer, ran the cables up to the battery and pulled the headlight fuse. He made it home with no problem, but got the name. To avoid future problems, he installed an alternator with slightly higher output and a better reputation. Stock output is 40-45 amps, depending on which literature you believe, the new alternator puts out 90 amps. :dancing:

.
 
duaneage said:
Before measuring the stator resistance touch the leads together real tight and see what the meter reads. Usually they read .2 to .8 ohms. This should be subtracted from the values you get.
Click to expand...

Okay, I just did this and I got a reading of 1-1.5 ohms, so if I subtract that from my original readings, then I am within spec. Yes I know that 1.5 ohms is kind of high, but I'm using a cheap DMM with homemade leads. Right now I just want to get this engine running to see if it actually works so I'm gonna leave it in there for now and focus my attention on the carbs. Thanks to all that replied.
 
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