• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Is WD-40 a safe lubricant for...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

Guest
yet another dumb question......have patience....

So when i tried to switch to reserve last night the switch was really stiff and the only way i could get it to move was VERY gently using a pair of pliers...should i use oil, grease, wd-40, dish soap.......or is this normal...and assuming it isn't should i dismantle it to correctly lube it....?

Thanks

Phil
 
Phil - I wouldn't use WD-40 on the petcock, it can be hard on rubber parts over time. If you can empty the tank and remove the petcock - you can disassemble it and clean the moving parts with gasoline or some other fast evaporating chemical - do not lube prior to re-assembly - the main tumbler is made out of plastic and it becomes hard to turn over the years after suffering a gummy build-up from the gasonline. Is this clear as mud?? 8)
 
Shaftzuki - that does make sense...

so is removing the petcock a tough or simple job....?
 
its only held on by two bolts...you just have to remove the gas from the tank or have it half full and balanced on its side.

undo the bolts, pull the petcock out, and have a look-see. :)

~Adam
 
AOD said:
its only held on by two bolts...you just have to remove the gas from the tank or have it half full and balanced on its side.

undo the bolts, pull the petcock out, and have a look-see. :)

~Adam

What he said ... 8)
 
ok so Q1 is easiest/safest way to remove gas..detach gas line...put in tube and suck on it (avoiding mouth full of gas)..?

and once ive removed the petcock will it be pretty self explanatory...?
will brake cleaner work to clean it up..?

Thanks

Phil
 
The safest way to remove the gas is to put the petcock on "ON" and remove the gas line from the tank. Install a longer gas line leading to a gasoline-safe container into the petcock and turn the petcock handle to "PRI", avoiding any spark or open flame during this operation. The prime position will drain the gastank without the vacuum actuation on the petcock. DO NOT put the gas line in your mouth, and NEVER try to suction gasoline with your mouth.
Once the tank is pretty much empty, disconnect the gas line from the petcock and cap the container you drained the gas into. Remember that there is still some gas and a lot of fumes in your gas tank so be very carefull about sparks, heat sources, open flames, smoking, etc.

Harrison
 
Once you have the petcock out - you should be able to determine what needs to be done to disassemble ... most of the models, I'm familiar with, have some sort of set screw on the barrel that the lever rides in - once removed the "guts" should pop out (literally) - there's a spring behind the lever (make sure it doesn't get away from you), once the lever is removed you sould see the plastic tumbler that will probably be stuck within the barrel of the petcock - some light tapping should loosen it up - if not, try letting it soak. The back of the petcock contains the diaphragm and another plastic washer with several holes in it - these parts are accessed by removing the 4 small screws on the square cover. Just make sure you note how everything comes apart - so that re-assembly can be accomplished. Take your time, it's a simple process. 8)
 
I rebuilt the petcock on my 550L when it was getting very stiff. Now it slides real smooth. Easy to do when it's off the tank.
 
WD-40 is not a lubricant. It is a water displacement compound and is primarily kerosene. It should never be used as a lubricant.

Earl
 
Oh Earl, now your in for it. I said that a while ago and I got flame mail with all kinds of advertising saying that WD-40 "lubricates", so it is a lubricant. I personally share your view,but please don't send me any more hateful mail people.
 
earlfor said:
WD-40 is not a lubricant. It is a water displacement compound and is primarily kerosene. It should never be used as a lubricant.

Earl

I love to use it for the occassional pesky flying insect!! 8)
 
ok so what is a good cleaner and lubricant for this particular job..?
 
I'd just use gasoline ... If you can remove all of the plastic and other rubber type materials, you could use carb cleaner on the metal parts only. 8)
 
I just rebuilt my petcock and cleaned it all well due to hard to move, the plastic diverter was cleaned well but it has some discoloration from 12 years of storage. I put some lite machine oil on everything during re-assembly. IT STILL IS HARD TO TURN,

So I guess I am also looking for the difinitive (make it turn easy) answer too. and just gas and carb cleaner did'nt work.
stimpy
 
I've never had a problem with plain ole "completely reformulated for your area" gasoline - and just for the record, the lever should be a little hard to turn - if it were easy to turn it would leak!! 8)
 
well i'll try the gas method....anybody know off hand what guage tube i need to extend the gas line to drain the tank...
 
Just go to the local hardware store or Home Depot and get 5/16" I.D. vinyl tubing. It will slip right over the outlet on the petcock.

Earl


PhilEkins said:
well i'll try the gas method....anybody know off hand what guage tube i need to extend the gas line to drain the tank...
 
I have rebuilt many petcocks over the years but only if they leak. My experiance has been with the GS even after a rebuild it was hard to turn. I don't know if it have something to do with the Vacuum valve gizmo, which just saved my ass as I had a fuel line break recently. But if I was you, well I'd leave it alone, there's a pair of plieers that comes with the bike for a reason.
If it's broke fix it, if it ain't broke fix it till it is. :twisted:
 
Back
Top