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It's Alive!

  • Thread starter Thread starter lee1rbc
  • Start date Start date
L

lee1rbc

Guest
My GS1100G is alive. I replaced the starter, repaired the starter clutch and cleaned the carbs (three cans of carb cleaner). rinsed the tank and after apprx 16months being dorment it has comeback to life.

I would like to say I just turned it over and boom it started right up. Actually I went thru a can of starter fluid and this bike popped cracked and sputtered for 1/2 hour before it would start to hold an idle. I then took the bike for a spin and after about 15min of riding the bike started to pull nice at half throttle with good response. But there is no doubt I have a lean issue. On deceleration after reving to 7.5k it pops and cracks like fire crackers.

I took the temp of each header with a temp gun and 1 and 4 are at 220deg, and 2 and 3 are at 700deg :eek:
 
OK, the pilot screws are on top, so does that mean it controls the amount of air? I am used to working with CBR carbs (Kehin) and the pilot screw is on the botoom of the carbs and it controls the amount of fuel. I have the pilot screws 3 turns out.
 
Sounds like your pilot jets are still clogged

Do you have the airbox? Pods?
 
Sorry, but I tend to agree with Chef.

Even three cans of carb cleaner won't get close to cleaning out what you need. It would have been cheaper to get ONE can of Berryman's carb dip and a set of o-rings from cycleorings.com and have it done in one shot.

Considering the time the bike has been dormant, I think I would dip each carb body overnight to make sure everything gets loose. Then you can use a bit of carb cleaner spray, one strand of an electrical wire and some compressed air to make sure all the passages are clean before re-assembling the rack. It will take several days because you will dip each body overnight, but you will really appreciate the end results.

While you are waiting for the carbs to be dipped is an excellent time to check the valve clearances and to go through the wiring harness to clean all the connections.

.
 
chef1366 said:
I know you don't want to hear this but you'll need to split the carb rack like here
Click to expand...

I have my fingers in my ears, did You say something?:D

I have taken the carbs back off and so far have pulled all four pilot srews out and cleaned. I also pulled the bowles off and cleaned and found more junk (maybe gas tank?) I am going to put it back together nad set the pilot screws at 3 turns. Maybe next week I'll buy a carb dipping kit and do it right.
 
Why not just do it now, before you go through the trouble of putting it all back together?

Don't forget to order an o-ring kit from cycleorings.com. Get the kit for your carbs, and also get the kit for the intake tubes. It is also nice to get the stainless hardware for the intake tubes, but that is somewhat optional. Second thought, the screws for the intake tubes will likely be necessary, as the stock screws will probably be trashed when you remove them.

We are not talking about a lot of money, either. The can of Berryman's will be about $20-25, the carb o-rings are about $15, the intake o-rings are about $3.50, the intake screws are about $6.50. Less than $50 and your carbs will be better than new.

.
 
lee1rbc said:
My GS1100G is alive. I replaced the starter, repaired the starter clutch and cleaned the carbs (three cans of carb cleaner). rinsed the tank and after apprx 16months being dorment it has comeback to life.

I would like to say I just turned it over and boom it started right up. Actually I went thru a can of starter fluid and this bike popped cracked and sputtered for 1/2 hour before it would start to hold an idle. I then took the bike for a spin and after about 15min of riding the bike started to pull nice at half throttle with good response. But there is no doubt I have a lean issue. On deceleration after reving to 7.5k it pops and cracks like fire crackers.

I took the temp of each header with a temp gun and 1 and 4 are at 220deg, and 2 and 3 are at 700deg :eek:
Click to expand...

Thats a good way to end up with a permantly cooked head. You think 50 bucks is spensive to clean the carbs right to prevent this, wait till you see how much a new set of valves, gasket kit, piston rings, possible machine shop time, AND a complete cleaning of the carbs cost. Not to mention how much time and effort it will take. I TOO suggest you clean your carbs properly BEFORE you continue to ride this bike any farther. There are passages in the carb bodies themselves that your can of spray cannot possibly reach. Its not just the visible jets.
 
Thanks guys for the feedback. I did re-clean the pilot screws and bowls and put it back together and it ran alot better, almost perfect.

I am going to pick up a can of carb dip tonight and order new rings and gaskets. I definitely want to set the valves before I try to rev this bike past half throttle. So I will be reading up on that.

Still, it was sweet taking her for a little cruise. I am suprised how many people just stare at this bike when riding. Plus it has that classic SUk sound.shweeet.

my-bikes.jpg
 
Only thing I have done is switch the 115 main jets to 125 main jets.
 
seal that air box back up and it will be a happier bike. these guys are picky picky when it comes to air leaks. if youve ajusted it with the airbox off you will have to reajust a little.
 
After reading what others have done I think after I dip the carbs I am going to change the starter jet from #50 to #55, and pilot jet from #40 to #45. And start tuning from there. I will be installing pods and turning the bike into more of a cafe style.
 
lee1rbc said:
After reading what others have done I think after I dip the carbs I am going to change the starter jet from #50 to #55, and pilot jet from #40 to #45. And start tuning from there. I will be installing pods and turning the bike into more of a cafe style.
Click to expand...
There should be NO need to increase the pilot jet size. The bike should be able to be jetted for pods and pipe without it. Save yourself massive headache, and the bike from damage, and get yourself a DynoJet Stage 3 kit for it. It may SEEM like its running fine, but youve not had it past half throttle. Without the propper jetting in there for the 4into1 and pods, it will QUICKLY fall apart at throttle because its running much too lean. 115 is STOCK. for pods and a pipe, you're likely going to be looking at somewhere between the 130 to 140 range in the main jet, plus you'll need to drill the slides, and move the needles. PLEASE dont run that bike like that without jetting for it. You will be VERY sad if you do, i can promise you that.
 
Thanks cafekid, hey dont worry, the bike has the carbs off and wont be back on the road until its set right. I had a dynojet kit on my Katana (4 bikes ago)and I know the tuning of the needles will be made alot easier with the kit.

But I still wonder if I need #45 pilot jets. I have found a couple threads for my bike were thats been done with good results.
 
lee1rbc said:
Thanks cafekid, hey dont worry, the bike has the carbs off and wont be back on the road until its set right. I had a dynojet kit on my Katana (4 bikes ago)and I know the tuning of the needles will be made alot easier with the kit.

But I still wonder if I need #45 pilot jets. I have found a couple threads for my bike were thats been done with good results.
Click to expand...
You can give it a shot. but GENERALLY, with the DJ kit, they give you everything you need, and the guesswork is MOSTLY done for you. I know some people have had good results moving up on the pilot while trying to richen things up for stock setups, or just a pipe, but MY experience with jetting my cafe, i had moved up the pilots and ended up being TOO RICH on the pilot circuit. I went back to the stock pilots, and adjusted everything else, and i dont QUITE have it dialed in yet, but i am VERY CLOSE. Im actually too rich at this point in the midrange/needle positon.
 
Just want to touch base on my bike. I checked the valves and dipped the carbs. Put it back together and it still ran a little off, hard to start and when idling would make a pop about every 5 seconds. Synched the carbs and that fixed it. Went back over the air box and boots and made sure everything is sealed. Bike is running sweet. plugs are all a perfect brown, took the bike up to 8k rpms and hit second the front end came off the ground. No popping at all, thanks for Your guys help.
 
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