Jennifer's Makeover

[Matchless]

Thanks Andre, good to know, will do that, Swambo is in the motor parts game so I get the stuff for next to nothing,
Definitely won't need to bore, that is for sure, will slip a feler gauge in tomorrow and check piston to bore clearence, but I expect it will be in spec.
While we on the subject, Nissan 1400 bakkie brake pads skimmed down to 10mm are a lot cheaper than EBC and a lot better than Emgo's.

Now you tell me! For the front or back?

 

[Flyboy]

As I remember, the front and back pads are the same, I know the front works.

 

[rustybronco]

A brass rod rounded and polished on both ends makes a decent bore taper gauge when used with a set of feeler gauges. It just takes a good feel to ensure sure you placed it correctly inside the bore.

 

[Matchless]

As I remember, the front and back pads are the same, I know the front works.

Thanks for the tip.
I have different front and rear pads on my 80. A quick look on Google shows that the Datsun 120Y may be the same as my rear pads.
I have just replaced the fronts, but will verify both at Midas next week!
Keep well.

 

[Flyboy]

Yes, Andre, just varify, it has been a few years and the memory is dim, I think the first series 1400 bakkie had the same brakes as the 120Y and the later "Champ" models had slightly bigger callipers, not sure anymore, just check it out, I know we used to buy them and have them skimmed down to 10mm material thickness as they are too thick to go into the GS callipers.

Today was spent measuring piston to cylinder clearance, all good.

Factory spec 0.050mm - 0,060mm
Service limit 0.120mm
As measured (all 4) 0.060mm
I am happy that all all is good, so I have shelved plans to tear the cases apart and inspect the bottom end.
We all know how bullet proof these bottom ends are, so with figures like these, it would be a waste of time.
There are no leaks from the bottom, so I will replace the seals and call it good.
The rest of the day was spent cleaning the head, hopefully I can finish that next weekend and get the valves lapped in, so I can reinstall them.

Oh yes, I know how much we all like pichas....

Dirty, oily lump








Pistons removed

 

[Flyboy]

Pistons all cleaned and measured


Piston skirts in good nick.




Those ring grooves clean enough for you doc.




Ewwww, carbon, lots of cleaning and scrubbing to be done.

 

[Guest]

Real glad to see you making progress again Stan!

Good to see that she's still very serviceable after that many km's too, explains why my 450 was so clean and in spec inside when I pulled it down with a lot less km's on her!

 

[Flyboy]

yeah, thanks Pete, built like brick sh1thouses these GS engines.
I am also very anal about oil, changing it often, keeping it clean and keeping the level up, as I see it, oil is cheaper than engines.

 

[Guest]

Must agree Stan, oil is much cheaper! Very cheap insurance policy that...

 

[Flyboy]

Ok, remember these

Last weekend was spent scrubbing and cleaning the head in preperation for paint and getting those ports from ^^^^
to..........
Pretty ports

 

[Flyboy]

Today was spent with one of these


And a tin of this


Dressing valve seats and making sure nothing leaks.







Before and after


And one last one of nice shiny ports, just because I can..........


Next weekend will be a good clean to get rid of any left over grinding paste, and reassemble and paint.

 

[Matchless]

Stan, you are busy with the good part now! I am still amazed at the condition of that motor for its mileage! You must replace something at least!
How is the timing chain?

 

[chuck hahn]

I am calling your Home Owner Association Buddy!!!!!

 

[Flyboy]

You know, Andre, myself and Chris (Tatu) were having that very conversation a few days ago, and he is adamant that that I should replace the chain as well, as it is probably the weakest part of the engine, and I understand his concern 100%, under normal circumstances I would, but that would mean splitting the cases, and I have sort if decided not to.
A you well know, the bottom end on these engines are bullet proof, and if the top is looking good, I realy feel that I will achieve nothing by splitting the cases, I will put folding money on the table that all is well down there, and I would just be introducing the possibility of oil leaks, at the moment she is bone dry, don't want to mess with it.
I will replace clutch and gear shifter seal and call it good, I think.

I am a betting man, so I will take a flyer on the cam chain being good for another few hundred thousand.
And like I said to Chris, in 30 years of riding GS motorcycles, I have only ever broken a cam chain once, on my GS850G, at stupid RPM, dragging my buddy on his GS1000G between the lights.

The original plan was to tear the engine down and replace all the bits, whether they needed it or not, expecting things to be way out of spec, and I mean, everything, rings, valve guides, valve seats, cam chain, even the gearbox, main and lay shaft bearings along with the pinion bearing.
Problem is, finances have dried up, and I really don't have the cash any more, part of the reason the build stood for six months, If I am ever going to get her finished and on the road, I have had to reassess the situation and do what needs doing and live with what is still usable, and that burns my arse like you have no idea, but so be it.
There are many bits which are "fine" but I want it perfect, like my headlight trim ring which has a couple of scratches on it, and my clocks which are ok, but not perfect.
Even running a hone through the bores and putting the rings back in does my head in something like you can not imagine, but is more than likely what will happen, seeing they are still well within spec.
One of my big nightmares is going to getting a new screen for the "S" fairing.

As to the longevity of the engine, besides a bullet proof design, mechanical sympathy and good maintenance, I guess, always changed oil and filter at 5000km regardless, always made sure the carbs were synced and not leaking, no rich or lean runs, air filter was washed every weekend, a little over the top, I know, but only takes 10 minutes and the results show.

Doing the valves yesterday, I could see there was a little valve regression into the head, but nothing major or to be concerned about, as you can see the seating surface is just below the centre of the valve seat, perhaps a millimetre or two, no big deal, and probably due to making sure my valve clearances were always good and in spec.

Chuck, never mind the body corporate, you may rather want to have a chat with my bank instead.

 

[Nessism]

Doing the valves yesterday, I could see there was a little valve regression into the head, but nothing major or to be concerned about, as you can see the seating surface is just below the centre of the valve seat, perhaps a millimetre or two, no big deal, and probably due to making sure my valve clearances were always good and in spec.

Did you check the seat width Stan? The spec is 1.1 - 1.3mm. When the valves recede into the head the seat widens. Not sure how much this matters though...

 

[Flyboy]

Ed, to be honest, no, I did not, I will be sure to check and write down few numbers on the weekend when I reassemble.

 

[rustybronco]

A question for you Stan. What range shim thickness was in Jennifer?

 

[Flyboy]

Not sure Dale, didn't check when I took them out, but will be sure to make a note of the shims this weekend when I reassemble and let you know.

 

[rustybronco]

The reason I asked, is to see if there was any valve seat regression. By looking at your images, I don't think there is much, if any. Just trying to verify it with numbers.

Looks good so far.

 

[Flyboy]

H Daniel, still flying, but very little, market is quiet and I am trying to work my way out of it, had enough of it now, so doing less and less.
Ya Swambo still loves me, can you believe that sh1t, miracles will never cease, trying to get her to run off with some rich guy, but no such luck.

That is what I thought Dale, ya, the seats look good and don't look visably recessed....too much, the numbers will tell.