Jumping ignition lock / replacing lock

[spyug]

The lock that came with the Kat project is buggered and the lock smith doesn't think its repairable (but he's going to give it the old college try).

Now from what I can tell from looking at wiring diagrams it seems to be the same lock for most GS models 750 and up i.e. 4 wire Red, Orange, Brown and Grey. If that is correct can I just switch it out for something from another model?

Are the locks still available and if so from Suzuki or another source?

In the meanwhile, If I'm trying to start the bike can I just jump the wires Red/Orange, Brown/Grey.

IfI can't come up with a lock I could just put in a rocker switch on one of those pairs and hide it somewhere couldn't I ?

Any flaws in my logic?

As always, all comments are appreciated.

Cheers,
spyug

PS As an after thought, are there any other locks from other bikes that are the same......anybody know?

 

[posplayr]

my 81 GS750EX and 83 GS1100ED will accept the same aftermarket ignition switches. They can be had off ebay. The biggest issue is the aftermarket ignition switch key cant be made to match the OEM lock set keys.

As an interim solution see if your ignition switch has the electrical portion removable (1 or 2 screws); you can then use that as a by pass

 

[Nessism]

If you take the electrical switch out the bottom of the ignition switch assembly, you can start the engine using a screwdriver in the slot of the switch.

Regarding a new ignition switch, a locksmith here locally told me that he could match different lock cylinders so they would all use the same key. Not sure what’s involved but you might want to look into it.

 

[Redman]

- Red is from the main fuse & R/R output.
- Orange is what goes back to the fuse block to power the Head, the Signal and the Ignition fuses.
- Grn is for front running lights, tach lights, the speedo lights, the gas guage light, license plate light.
- Brn goes to the tail light only.
But you probably already know that.
( I am looking at a Suzuki schematic for GS1100G, but seems consistent with what you describe for your Kat.)

Yes, you could hotwire (wirenut whatever) the Red to Org, and the Grn to the Brn, and things should work the same as if the ignition key switch in the ON position. But of course will not want to leave it that way when not running (unless disconnect battery).

And yes, you could come up with a rocker swich (toggle switch, rotary switch, whatever) with two contacts (DPST, double pole, single throw. Or DPDT and not use the normally closed) to hook up the wires in the same manner but be able to turn on and off.

But I think you understand all the above.

My concern is that a standard switch of 10 amp rating may be insufficent. May want a 15 amp. And maybe when you find a 15 amp rated switch it might just have one contact (SPDT, or SPDT).

But (this is the part I wanted to tell you about), seems to me that you can use just a single pole (single contact) switch. Switch on/off the Red to the Org, and leave the Grn connected to the Brn. Can do this because the Grn comes from the signal fuse (Org/Grn) circuit anyway (on schematic see the Org/Grn to Grn jumper at the right handlebar connector) that you are already switching on and off by switcing the Org wire. This is easy to understand once you do understand it, just kinda hard to describe.

To further discuss it: The only reason the Brn wire (tail light) is at the ignition switch any way is so that in the Park position the only thing powered is the tail light. (And I do mean Park, not Off. If lettering worn away from key switch, some people dont know that Park position exist.)

And to further yammer on even more: The schematic related to the ignition switch is one of the things that is not entirely correct on some early Clymer manaul schematics (with color scematics). I think they got confused between Green and Gray. SOmething aint right. Is more fully explained on a link in BassCliff's Enclopedia BikeCliffTanica. But again, this is for the GS850Gs and 1100Gs. oaky, getting way of track now.

 

[posplayr]

Regarding a new ignition switch, a locksmith here locally told me that he could match different lock cylinders so they would all use the same key. Not sure what?s involved but you might want to look into it.

Ed,
my locksmith told me that only works swapping parts between OEM locks.
Jim

 

[Redman]

Domino ?

Domino ?

If you take the electrical switch out the bottom of the ignition switch assembly, you can start the engine using a screwdriver in the slot of the switch.
....
....

I understand that Domino Mr GS1100E can also tell us about this. (Snagging some pics form GBW)

 

[spyug]

Thanks for all the input fellas. I think the crisis might be averted after all. The locksmith referred to an associate of his who happens to have a barrel of bike locks kicking around so he's pretty confident something can be cobbled up. I also talked to my wrench/wrecker and he figures he' d have something as well if needed.

I also took in the gascap and they'll try and match the key up. I don't have the seatlock yet ( the PO couldn't find it but did eventually locate it and he's bringing it to me this weekend) but once I do I'll try and get that rekeyed to match.

Unlike most locks I've seen, this one has a body that is all plastic and it seems kind of chintz so there likely is something busted inside. Maybe he can get me a metal one.

I'm getting anxious to fire this puppy up so I'm hoping this gets sorted fairly soon and I don't have to "bodge" something up since I'm now trying for a more sanitary resto.

cheers all,
Spyug

 

[Steve]

... BassCliff's Enclopedia BikeCliffTanica. ...

I like that.

............

.

 

[Nessism]

I understand that Domino Mr GS1100E can also tell us about this. (Snagging some pics form GBW)

The electrical switch is a round plastic piece that can be extracted from that ignition lock casting via two phillips head screws. No reason to strap that entire ignition lock assembly to the bars but hey, what ever works I guess.

 

[gbw]

The electrical switch is a round plastic piece that can be extracted from that ignition lock casting via two phillips head screws. No reason to strap that entire ignition lock assembly to the bars but hey, what ever works I guess.

Yeah, thats we thought for a while. But then Dominic was pulling away from a stop and the steering locked up. He was able to recover but it definitely caused some concern. It would have been ok if we had found a road with a nice long left hand curve...that went on forever.

Turns out that without the lock barrel there was nothing to keep the locking pins (if thats what they are called) from popping out of the lock housing and engaging the steering lock.

At least thats how I recall it. Dominic might have something to add.

 

[80gs1000e]

Just seeing this now...

No reason to strap that entire ignition lock assembly to the bars but hey, what ever works I guess.

I had to remove the assembly completely because it was automatically locking hard left/right and yeah...not such a good thing when trying to steer.

When I initially got my bike the key assembly was a mess so I bought one of those new EMGO knockoffs. Worked great for years but during the rally at the end of day 2 it decided to disintegrate and literally vibrated apart. Initially the top part would stay seated in the cavity but that didn't last long.

Day 3. I was using a screwdriver to start...no problem but since the top was missing it would auto lock the steering. I was pulling onto the road at about 2mph when it locked and I almost fell over so yeah, it had to go on the bars for the trip home.

I now have a used OEM unit I got off of Ebay. :clap:

 

[spyug]

It all worked out well in the end. The locksmith was able to rekey the ignition, gascap and seat lock to one common key. He did that and provided 3 spares for $46 which I thought was more than fair.

I hadn't noticed that the bike came with a helmet lock as well or I would have that done as well but its not urgent or important so I could have it rekeyed at a later date.

Still haven't got the puppy fired up as life has gotten in the way and with the holidays up on us it might still be awhile. I guess I'll put a spurt back on after New Years.

Cheers,
spyug

 

[salty_monk]

On my friends 83 750ES they couldn't re-key the helmet locks but managed to match up the rest from memory...

Dan