K
koolaid_kid
Guest
The green Dyna coils are the standard for our GS bikes, I can't believe it would be them.
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Jumping Voltages...checking across battery
- Thread starter BigD_83
- Start date
Steve
GS Whisperer
I see many references to your "DMM", but have not seen you mention exactly which one you have.
I have two meters at my disposal. The one I use the most is a first-generation Fluke 77. Even though it is rather old, it still passes an annual NIST calibration, which is required for work. My other meter is a Radio Shack clamp-on AC/DC amp meter with several other functions. That one does not have a calibration sticker, but I had the tech run it through the tests last time the other meter was checked. He said that with a very minor tweaking of the DC amps, it would qualify.
Neither one of these meters has done any jumping around on any voltage readings, and I tend to place them wherever I can see them best. If that location happens to be on the head, propped in place by a spark plug lead, great. It might be located on the frame, but the leads run past the plug wires on the way to checking the horn. Also great.
I have had no problems with either of these meters, so I am curious what meter you are using.
Would also like to know the results of your Fluke that you brought home from work.
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I have two meters at my disposal. The one I use the most is a first-generation Fluke 77. Even though it is rather old, it still passes an annual NIST calibration, which is required for work. My other meter is a Radio Shack clamp-on AC/DC amp meter with several other functions. That one does not have a calibration sticker, but I had the tech run it through the tests last time the other meter was checked. He said that with a very minor tweaking of the DC amps, it would qualify.
Neither one of these meters has done any jumping around on any voltage readings, and I tend to place them wherever I can see them best. If that location happens to be on the head, propped in place by a spark plug lead, great. It might be located on the frame, but the leads run past the plug wires on the way to checking the horn. Also great.
I have had no problems with either of these meters, so I am curious what meter you are using.
Would also like to know the results of your Fluke that you brought home from work.
.
Steve
GS Whisperer
My first impulse would be to recommend anything BUT a Canadian Tire meter. :-\\\
That said, I have never seen such a problem, and I have used many different meters, including cheapies from Harbor Freight, Auto Zone, Wal-Mart, Sears, etc.
As far as features, the minimum that I would look for would be auto-ranging, a diode check and an audible continuity check.
Virtually all meters will have sufficient other features and range to handle everything else you are likely to check.
Some of the REAL cheap meters (Harbor Freight, et al) can be had for $5-10. Sears has Craftsman meters from $10 to $110, their version of my Radio Shack meter is on sale for $51. I have not bothered to price meters at any of the auto parts stores, but I would guess that they probably start about $20, so you don't even have to pay a lot for a quality meter.
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Fluke vs Motomaster
Fluke vs Motomaster
The Canadian Tire MM is a Motomaster, but I cannot find a model number on the case.
I used to have a Fluke 77, but it kicked the bucket during a flood in the lab last year. Nice unit, yes; old, but solid.
I brought the Fluke 233 home from work. Rock steady on the battery, but it did get a little twitchy when I disconnected it and brought the leads near the head.
The next test would be to swap the leads between the two multimeters and see if the situation reverses.
Fluke vs Motomaster
The Canadian Tire MM is a Motomaster, but I cannot find a model number on the case.
I used to have a Fluke 77, but it kicked the bucket during a flood in the lab last year. Nice unit, yes; old, but solid.
I brought the Fluke 233 home from work. Rock steady on the battery, but it did get a little twitchy when I disconnected it and brought the leads near the head.
The next test would be to swap the leads between the two multimeters and see if the situation reverses.
K
koolaid_kid
Guest
Congrats. Hehe, even a blind squirrel gets an acorn once in a while.
G
Guest
Guest
OK so you have concluded that your Motomaster Meter is pooched, but why did you have a dead battery?
I wondered if THAT particular question might get asked...OK so you have concluded that your Motomaster Meter is pooched, but why did you have a dead battery?
To be honest, I still have not found anything untoward in the wiring that would cause a slow current draw. I agree with Tom that it seems likely to have been in the horn relay wiring, but if it's drawing current, then shouldn't it also be sounding? As it happens, the horn is NOT constantly sounding.
I've recently had a repeat episode of the dead battery. The odd thing is that the battery tests fine, the R/R tests are all a-ok, and it starts up like a champ every time, with no indication the battery is dying, until it is dead. Still makes me think there is a loose ground or intermittent short somewhere.
There is much to investigate over the winter...I'm contemplating installing an Eastern Beaver fusebox I picked up for a steal, so while I think about that, I can have another, intensive look at the wiring.
S
spyug
Guest
I just reread this thread and came across this comment:
I also came to that conclusion with a CT unit, I had prior to the one I currently have. It was doing the herky jerky on just about any voltage from any source that I tried to check and my other cheaper unit did not.
After I tossed that one I picked up the same model again as they were on sale super cheap. It has worked fine with the exception of the herky jerky episode with the 550 that I mentioned earlier. Since adding several more grounds to the R/R it no longer does that but oddly the cheap digital v-meter I added to the cockpit to monitor while riding does do the dance. Since it was only a few bucks from China, I've discounted it as junk but I'm now starting to think it might not be. Who knows.
I hope you get it figured out.
Spyug
I also came to that conclusion with a CT unit, I had prior to the one I currently have. It was doing the herky jerky on just about any voltage from any source that I tried to check and my other cheaper unit did not.
After I tossed that one I picked up the same model again as they were on sale super cheap. It has worked fine with the exception of the herky jerky episode with the 550 that I mentioned earlier. Since adding several more grounds to the R/R it no longer does that but oddly the cheap digital v-meter I added to the cockpit to monitor while riding does do the dance. Since it was only a few bucks from China, I've discounted it as junk but I'm now starting to think it might not be. Who knows.
I hope you get it figured out.
Spyug
So do I, and I'll be sure to post back here if I ever do.
I still think the shenanigans with the jumpy meter are related to something electrical on the motorcycle, but the electrical phenomenon that caused it is not directly linked to the sub-par performance of the bike in certain areas. Could be wrong...have been before, and I'm sure I will be again.
My insurance ran out this past Saturday, and with a few months of short, cold, wet days in front of us I think I'll leave it off the road until March. That is going to give me plenty of time to sort through the wiring, and maybe get the tank and bodywork sent away for a decal fitting prior to stripping and painting. I'm actually hoping GSJim will do it instead. The decal supplier is kind of local to him. He'll get free decals, and I won't have to pay to ship the tank etc.
Pessimist !! I had a great ride yesterday.
...I'm not pessimistic, just risk-averse and cost-conscious (i.e. cheap)
I might put the Honda on the road for the winter, however.
Disconnecting it like when doing the stator tests?
If so, no. I did the stator tests with my other meter intially, the one that doesn't jump around.
I'm afraid that option is no longer available with the Motomaster meter. I'm getting no readings with it now, even with new batteries that work in my Fluke. It appears that the Motomaster DMM has its own issues.
