Just acquired

[Dogma]

Well, I got the #1 carb almost ready to dip. I just need one or two things. First, I need a wooden dowel or some other non-marring-type thing to drive the needle jet out. Second, I need suggestions on how to remove a stuck pilot air screw (or fuel flow screw, if that's the correct name).

Here I am, just getting started. No complaints from Wendy, so maybe she likes the smell of gasoline too. I chose well.

Those are the tools I thought I would need. Not exactly. Three pound driving hammer not pictured.

If you look closely at the gang plate, you can see the next picture coming.

The basis for a new demotivator poster on incompetence. I'm not going to bother making one, because I haven't seen enough of the super-inspiring motivational posters.

Seriously noobs, get an impact driver, and be an advanced noob like me. That's how I loosened all the other screws. These two came out by clamping vise grips onto the screw heads. I was thinking about not getting stainless screws for the carbs, but now I see that decision has been made for me, in the slightly more expensive direction.

Lastly,

It would be beneath me to suggest humor in poor taste here. Oh wait...

Is this par for the course, or cause for concern? The cloth embedded in the diaphragm is not torn, and the rubber on the other side is intact. OK for now, I think, but will this be trouble later?

So, to sum up:

1. How to remove stuck pilot air screw?
2. Is this diaphragm going to be a problem in the forseeable future?

 

[mighty13d]

can you turn the screw at all or is it totally froze right in place? you might have to dip it first or spray it with carb cleaner and let it soak before trying again. those would be your best two bets.

and +5 million on the impact driver. I did also use vice grips in removing those small bolts though. works pretty good if you're not planning on re-using them

 

[four_shot]

Just got a new impact driver for my birthday! now I dont have to cart the one I keep at work home every time i need it.

 

[Dogma]

can you turn the screw at all or is it totally froze right in place? you might have to dip it first or spray it with carb cleaner and let it soak before trying again. those would be your best two bets.

and +5 million on the impact driver. I did also use vice grips in removing those small bolts though. works pretty good if you're not planning on re-using them

Thanks. I was thinking along those lines, but I wasn't sure there wasn't something irreplaceable under it for the dip to destroy. If chemicals doesn't loosen it, I guess I can try warming up the carb body.

 

[rustybronco]

let me check and see if the bs32's use the same slide diaphragm and if I have a good one to send to you...

***edit*** rats... they're not the same.

 

[Steve]

let me check and see if the bs32's use the same slide diaphragm and if I have a good one to send to you...

No, they don't.

Dogma, you can use vise-grips or some sharp channel-locks on those screws, then throw them out (the screws, that is).

There is no way to guarantee that the split in the diaphragm will stay buried in the groove on the side. I'll bet that it rolls over the edge when you aren't looking.

I am going to guess what you are calling "pilot air screw (or fuel flow screw, if that's the correct name). " The pilot air screw is in the intake for the carb (the part that faces the airbox), at about the 8 o'clock position. Just needs a well-fitting screwdriver to remove. The fuel flow screw that I think you are referring to is the "idle mixture adjustment screw" and is on top of the outlet of the carb. Reference this picture:

They can be a bear to remove, but you can try soaking with PB Blaster for a couple of days, dip the carbs, or heat them up, but whatever you do, use a good screwdriver to try to remove the screw. Under that screw, there will be a small spring, a very small metal washer and a small o-ring. The metal parts will usually fall out if the carb is turned over, but one good way to remove the o-ring is to use a drywall screw to snag it with the point of the screw. Just insert the screw, barely give it a twist (about 10 degrees or so) and remove it with the o-ring.

.

 

[Dogma]

let me check and see if the bs32's use the same slide diaphragm and if I have a good one to send to you...

***edit*** rats... they're not the same.

Thanks for checking. I should get a look at the other 3 before I figure out a replacement plan though.

 

[Dogma]

Steve,

That's the one all right. Those were the names suggested in the carb rebuild series. I tried to find Suzuki's name for it, but I can't find the thing on a parts fiche.

As soon as I get the needle jet out, this one's going in the can to soak. If that doesn't get it, I'll have to finally get myself a torch. While I'm at it, I'd better grind down a screwdriver or two; I've got three carbs to break down, each with a couple sizes or two I might need.

Didn't you have a source for Japanese-sized screwdrivers?

Indeed, the diaphragm shows that crack much more when installed. I saw it before I really even tried to check.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[Steve]

Didn't you have a source for Japanese-sized screwdrivers?

Not that I know of. I just get NEW screwdrivers from Sears. Don't bother grinding them down. Unless you have a guide to get it perfectly perpendicular to the grinding wheel, your tip will be off-center and you will just introduce more problems. Screwdrivers are relatively cheap, compared to the repairs they might cause by ruining something else.

In my screwdriver arsenal for working on carbs, I have #2 and #3 Philips drivers and a 5/16" or 3/8" flat driver for removing the main jet, a 3/16" flat cabinet screwdriver (does not flare out wider than the tip) for removing the pilot air jet and the idle mixture screw, and a 1/8" driver for removing the pilot fuel jet. These drivers are ONLY used for carb work. When they don't do their job as well as they should, they go to the other toolbox, with the rest of them.

.

 

[Dogma]

I believe I'll be taking that list to the HW store this evening... Thanks.

 

[sschering]

McMaster Carr sells some sets of JIS Drivers..
http://www.mcmaster.com/#jis-%28japanese-industrial-standard%29-screwdrivers/=48dr0g

They are the only place I've found #3 and #4 JIS drivers.

I have this set #000, #00,#1, #2
http://www.trossenrobotics.com/stor...al-Standard-Screwdriver-Set.aspx?feed=Froogle

same set from another vendor
http://www.heliproz.com/prodinfo.asp?number=888101

Worth every penny.. I didn't strip any screws taking my GS1000 carbs apart.


As for the pilot screw.. My VM26's pilot air screws were stuck.. As in Broke a ez-out trying stuck.. I let them soak in the NAPA brand dip for 3 days and they came out.. Then a 20 min re-dip to clean out where they were.

On a BS carb that long of a dip might be hard on the shaft seals so you might need to change them out. Probably want to anyway.



I might have a spare BS34 disphram/slider kicking around for my XS-400.. I'll ckeck the parts bin.

 

[kinnet]

You can get the smaller sizes from Ames Supply...

http://www.amessupply.com/products1.cfm?aid=1&cid=D&sid=DE&fid=1404070

 

[Dogma]

Thanks for the links folks. I found the tools Steve listed locally. Knowing how many carbs he's rebuilt, I have fair confidence that I have serviceable tools now. The Phillips head screws I plan to replace with stainless socket heads.

This carb is in the dip now. I should have time to try getting the screw out again tomorrow, and open up the other three carbs to inspect those diaphragms.

 

[Dogma]

Well, I broke down the rest of the carbs last night. Idle mix screws on #1 and #4 are stuck despite long soaks in the Berryman's. The #3 diaphragm is definitely perforated: light shows through, unlike #1.

I happened to talk to Ragezro today, and we'll figure out a time for me to take 1 and 4 over to his shop soon to try heat on the stuck idle mix screws. I don't have a torch here.

I'm thinking about trying the nitrile glove diaphragm patch that doctorgonzo is trying. If it holds until next summer, I'll be happy. For now, I have other things I want to spend the money on.

 

[Rkt-Rch]

Been reading alittle about your issues and when I first started my (bring back to life project) I ran into some of the same Carb rebuilding issues... and some even worse. Stuck idle screws/torn diaphram(s)/WRONG pilot jet in one,and slide..and so on.. Well after a complete tear down/rebuild and many hours of trying to find all the right parts to repair I checked Flea-bay.. and within a week or two (durring winter) I found a set 32BS that were for my bike that looked great but !!! They first went up for $175.00 +shipping, I waited a week and they went up again for bid with NO-Reserve. I bid and WON and had them shipped to my house for $58.00 what a deal ! :lol:
When they arrived I did a quick open / clean / swapped new o-ring kit from other carbs.. Closed and installed. They even still had the cap/plug on the idle screw still and still does. They WORKED perfect and have been all this season. This is a best case situation but boy did it get rid of sooo many hours of work. I will this winter pull them just to get those idle caps/plugs off and try, TRY to remove the screws and replace the o-rings and do a quick cleaning. Anyway just thought you might want to look at the big picture and maybe save some time and effort.

Keep up the posts on progress.

 

[Dogma]

I'm watching a set on eBay right now, as a matter of fact. I dunno if I'll bid on them. They may or may not be any better than what I have now, with regard to the parts I need. That, and I only have so much cash flow I can dedicate to this right now. We'll see.

Thanks for the reminder to check that I actually have all the correct jets in my set.

 

[Dogma]

Well, I broke down the rest of the carbs last night. Idle mix screws on #1 and #4 are stuck despite long soaks in the Berryman's. The #3 diaphragm is definitely perforated: light shows through, unlike #1.

I happened to talk to Ragezro today, and we'll figure out a time for me to take 1 and 4 over to his shop soon to try heat on the stuck idle mix screws. I don't have a torch here.

I'm thinking about trying the nitrile glove diaphragm patch that doctorgonzo is trying. If it holds until next summer, I'll be happy. For now, I have other things I want to spend the money on.

Well, Jim and I got the idle mix screw out of #1, but it took an impact driver almost all the way. The threads in the body are in rough shape, but I might be able to rehabilitate them. The screw in #4 is too far gone. The impact driver's bit just jumped right out of the slot. In light of this, I'll have to start looking for another rack of carbs. Time to hit eBay.

 

[Dogma]

Hang on a minute. I see these screws are available at Carb Kit Capital for about $7. I need to try harder on #4. Any further advice is certainly welcome.

 

[TheCafeKid]

I couldnt get the pilot jets out of the carbs on my now EX 1000G () because the heads were already completely munged up. So, since there are no orings there, I just soaked them with them in there, and paid A LOT of extra attention to them when cleaning them with wire, carb spray and air. I still dont think they ended up perfectly clean, hence the problems i had getting it running great at first, but, Ive run a few tanks of SeaFoam thru it since, and it made a definate recovery. Its new owner will be quite please im sure. I simply didnt want to hunt another set of carbs, and wasnt going to risk getting them so screwed up they'd NEVER come out, so I kinda cheated this time. Worked out ok, but it made for some initial tuning headaches and frustration.

 

[Steve]

Any further advice is certainly welcome.

More than once , I have used a cut-off wheel in my Dremel to cut a slot in the top of the munged screw.

Yeah, you have to cut the slot in the tower that holds the screw, too, but it has worked every time I have had to do it.

.