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Just checking....oil filter cover studs...

  • Thread starter Thread starter dueller
  • Start date Start date
D

dueller

Guest
Looking at http://www.powersportspro.com/pages...85)/OIL_PUMP_-_OIL_FILTER/02770001/5602770006

01421-0620A
alertIco.png
STUD BOLT

to figure out what size studs to get to replace the bolts that PO or PO PO put in place of the studs for the filter cover I think I need 6mmX20mm long studs. What say you?? Just wanted to make sure was reading the bolt size right from the part number. Thanks!
 
BassCliff said:
Hi,

I found this information on some guy's website:

Oil Cover Studs and Nuts


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Click to expand...

Heh heh wasn't sure if it was the same on mine as well because I know alot of your info was for the 850's. And noticed that the part number in that fiche was significantly different that what was on your website. :eek:
 
Hi,

Yep, they're the same. :)

The part number referenced in the earlier link was the McMaster-Carr part number, not the Suzuki OEM part number, which is 01421-06208 (for the stud).


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Last edited:
BassCliff said:
Hi,

Yep, they're the same. :)

The part number referenced in the earlier link was the McMaster-Carr part number, not the Suzuki OEM part number, which is 01421-06208 (for the stud).


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Click to expand...
Ok I'm confused....your link says 40mm long?
 
Hi,

dueller said:
Ok I'm confused....your link says 40mm long?
Click to expand...

I'm sorry for the confusion. Yes, Mr. bwringer, who wrote that piece of advice, uses the 40mm generic studs as replacements for Suzuki part# 01421-06208. That part number is used on dozens of bikes, including yours and mine. So I'm sure the same 40mm generic studs would work just fine.

I trust Mr. bwringer's advice. He is one of those "gurus" who knows every nut and bolt on his 850.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
But 20mm would work too right? I'm looking not to have an extra 10-15mm sticking out ya know :)
 
Hi,

I'm pretty sure 20mm studs would work OK. Just don't screw them in too far. You should probably use Lock-Tite to hold them in place.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Looking for info on this issue as well. I measured the cover on my 1000G and it was about 21mm thick. Allowing 5mm to go into the block and 5mm for the nut & washer, I'd say you'd need at least a 30mm stud (40mm sounds a lot better, thanks Bass). I don't see a 20mm stud as being a good fit here. It's always better to have one too long than too short, you can cut it down with a hacksaw.
 
The stock studs are 32mm long.

You can either order the OEM studs (I keep a couple of sets of these around) or get 40mm aftermarket studs. If you get stainless steel studs, you'll find that there's no "stop" in the middle, so you have to use Loctite on the bottom stud (the bottom hole goes all the way through) and let it set up before use.
 
Allens Fasteners to the rescue again (linked them for exhaust studs on the 1000G).

PN 71104 is an alloy 6mm x 1.0 stud. Use the drop down box to select a 35mm length for a cost each of 22 cents. They do not have a center unthreaded section like the stock studs, so follow bwringer's advice above.

PN 23015 is an alloy 6mm x 1.0 stud. Use the drop down box to select a 32.5mm overall length for a cost of 83 cents each. Like the stock studs, these have a stop in the center.
THREADEDSTUD.jpg


I ordered exhaust studs from this company for my GS, and they were very decent insofar as the product, shipping cost, and shipping speed.
 
Thanks for the info!! I have to Helicoil one already :( and the third one is already a larger bolt then the one stud/nut that is still on there :( Right now one of the two bottom holes is a stud/nut and the other one is a bolt. The top one is a larger size bolt. Thinking an 8mm. Not sure if that's the size of a 6mm helicoil. Hoping.
 
As an update, I installed the 32.5mm Allen's studs today while doing some other work on the bike. They are a good length, there's enough room for a stainless nut and lock washer. I put some Loctite blue on the short threads.
 
Stainless fasteners

Stainless fasteners

Some thoughts/comments on the use of fasteners in general:

Stainless steel seems to be the be-all and end-all for home users but is not popular with mechanical professionals because of a number of issues. Heat stainless and it becomes harder than your ex during a divorce settlement hearing. It also becomes brittle which makes for some very interesting developments when stainless bolts or studs are used for exhaust systems.

I used to sell carbide drill bits (Garr 1500 series usually) to technicians for the removal of stainless exhaust studs on Cummins diesels in heavy trucks and many other applications. The stainless becomes really nasty when heated.

Another issue with stainless is that, contrary to the author of the linked web site advocating use of stainless studs for the oil filter housing, stainless fasteners are generally not stronger than OEM fasteners, usually soft as butter.

Stainless fasteners are illegal on most/all aircraft installations because of corrosion issues when combined with aluminium.

Loctite thread locking products are very useful in preventing the corrosion locking of fasteners but may not be the ideal choice for sealing threads against oil leakage.

Avoid split type lock washers as they are a poor locking device which is why they are not found on automobiles for the last several decades.

HIH

Norm
 
Normk said:
Some thoughts/comments on the use of fasteners in general:

Stainless steel seems to be the be-all and end-all for home users but is not popular with mechanical professionals because of a number of issues. Heat stainless and it becomes harder than your ex during a divorce settlement hearing. It also becomes brittle which makes for some very interesting developments when stainless bolts or studs are used for exhaust systems.
Click to expand...
I take this to read snapping studs on removal making for a very nasty job getting the broken still stuck in whatever you're working on out? I would think anti-siezing compound would help with this though?

Normk said:
I used to sell carbide drill bits (Garr 1500 series usually) to technicians for the removal of stainless exhaust studs on Cummins diesels in heavy trucks and many other applications. The stainless becomes really nasty when heated.

Another issue with stainless is that, contrary to the author of the linked web site advocating use of stainless studs for the oil filter housing, stainless fasteners are generally not stronger than OEM fasteners, usually soft as butter.
Click to expand...
But you said that they harden up when heated so problem solved right? :D

Normk said:
Stainless fasteners are illegal on most/all aircraft installations because of corrosion issues when combined with aluminium.

Loctite thread locking products are very useful in preventing the corrosion locking of fasteners but may not be the ideal choice for sealing threads against oil leakage.

Avoid split type lock washers as they are a poor locking device which is why they are not found on automobiles for the last several decades.

HIH

Norm
Click to expand...
Yeah, dissimilar metal (galvanic) corrosion. Again, I would hope that some antisieze would help with that. There's quite a few people on here that have used them for years though and don't seem to have that problem. Maybe not long term enough study or maybe they don't get hot enough to worry about?
 
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