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just double checking

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been riding the bike a lot lately, just went for a 100 mile trip today, and my bike doesnt idle well. i think it may be lean because i rode for a decent chunk of the trip with only a small throttle opening and my pipes are slowly turning more yellow. before, the idle would hang up when i rev it so i turned the mixture screws in a 1/4 turn to lean it out because i had thought that a hanging idle meant rich. now it barely idles but that may be the idle speed screw. ill turn it up a bit and do the highest idle tuning method and see how it turns out but until then, and comments/suggestions?
 
been riding the bike a lot lately, just went for a 100 mile trip today, and my bike doesnt idle well. i think it may be lean because i rode for a decent chunk of the trip with only a small throttle opening and my pipes are slowly turning more yellow. before, the idle would hang up when i rev it so i turned the mixture screws in a 1/4 turn to lean it out because i had thought that a hanging idle meant rich. now it barely idles but that may be the idle speed screw. ill turn it up a bit and do the highest idle tuning method and see how it turns out but until then, and comments/suggestions?

Too lean already, you made it leaner.
Airbox leaks?
 
nope. sealed it all up a while ago.

thats what i thought. ill richen it up tomorrow.
 
Don't think it's a definitive measure like reading plugs, but I think gold pipes are rich and blue pipes are lean. It might be a bit rich once it hits needle or main, but lean on pilot.
 
blue and gold are the same things. the plating is discoloring due to excess heat. i had a feeling it was lean before, just double checking.

i want to get this fixed right away because it lacks power right off idle so i cant pull out fast if i have to.
 
Haw many turns out are the screws now?
You bike looks all stock in the picture, so try 2 full turns out from lightly seated as a starting point.

.
 
it is stock but with a K&N drop in filter. i raised the needles a notch also. i dont know how many turns out they are but i will start at 2.
 
Interesting... I had been misinformed. Though I have to say my new pipes had turned gold within the first 50 miles and I am not lean for sure. Also, the V&H pipes must be thinner walls than OEM because within about 5 seconds of starting the bike they will take the skin off your hand, where the oem took a minute to get up to temp.
 
Interesting... I had been misinformed. Though I have to say my new pipes had turned gold within the first 50 miles and I am not lean for sure. Also, the V&H pipes must be thinner walls than OEM because within about 5 seconds of starting the bike they will take the skin off your hand, where the oem took a minute to get up to temp.

OEM are double walled pipes.
 
OEM are double walled pipes.

That makes sense. Also helps explain why my entire 4 into 1 weighs less than one side of my OEM pipes. It rides like a totally different bike. The most dramatic thing about swapping the exhaust, the "lightness" of the bike.
 
That makes sense. Also helps explain why my entire 4 into 1 weighs less than one side of my OEM pipes. It rides like a totally different bike. The most dramatic thing about swapping the exhaust, the "lightness" of the bike.

The mufflers themselves are a lot heavier too, and there are two of them.
 
Double-wall pipes

Double-wall pipes

I thought that the point of double-wall pipes was [is] to PREVENT "blueing." ???

-- Bill
 
so i set the mixture screws out at 2 turns and i turned the idle up a bit. it idles better but still has a hesitation when i rev it and still hangs up after i close the throttle. i cant hear any changes in engine speed if i adjust the mixture. suggestions appreciated.
 
Hanging idle is a sign of lean-osity.

80-83 850s with stock pipes and airbox need 2.5 to 3 turns out on the idle mixture screws. This will also smooth out the off-idle transition.

Honestly, I've never been able to hear much difference in idle while twiddling the mixture screws, and I have excellent hearing and pitch. You have to adjust and then go test ride to see if it's different. I just set them all the same.

Adjust in half-turn increments, test ride, then fine-tune in quarter-turns from there if you want.


Your bike still has the stock exhaust/airbox, correct?



It could also be an intake leak -- it's VERY easy to miss getting the inner two airbox/carb boots in place when you monkey with the airbox. I've done this several times, and it's nearly impossible to see what's going on in there.
 
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yes stock airbox/exhaust. i think the boots are on there well but ill double check tomorrow.
 
yes stock airbox/exhaust. i think the boots are on there well but ill double check tomorrow.

Then you're probably about a half to a full turn away from happiness. Half turns of the idle mixture screws make a big difference.
 
Hanging idle is a sign of lean-osity.

80-83 850s with stock pipes and airbox need 2.5 to 3 turns out on the idle mixture screws. This will also smooth out the off-idle transition.

Honestly, I've never been able to hear much difference in idle while twiddling the mixture screws, and I have excellent hearing and pitch. You have to adjust and then go test ride to see if it's different. I just set them all the same.

Adjust in half-turn increments, test ride, then fine-tune in quarter-turns from there if you want.


Your bike still has the stock exhaust/airbox, correct?



It could also be an intake leak -- it's VERY easy to miss getting the inner two airbox/carb boots in place when you monkey with the airbox. I've done this several times, and it's nearly impossible to see what's going on in there.

Same here... I'm a musician, and "Highest idle" method... I can't get it to work. Turning the screw on one carb doesn't effect the idle enough for me to tell.
 
Not to hijack this thread but...

Not to hijack this thread but...

I have a situation where my idle will stay around 1000-1200 when first started, then as i ride, the idle will go up to around 2500 sometime, most times but not always. The intake boot o rings are new and seated, the carb boots are in good shape and tested with the spray bottle method The carbs themselves are clean, and all the orings are new, with the float levels set correctly. All 4 screws ( the ones facing up, need to take tank off or have really small hands to reach 2&3) are about 2 and 1/2 out.Good plugs, coil mod done. What else are we missing?
 
I have a situation where my idle will stay around 1000-1200 when first started, then as i ride, the idle will go up to around 2500 sometime, most times but not always. The intake boot o rings are new and seated, the carb boots are in good shape and tested with the spray bottle method The carbs themselves are clean, and all the orings are new, with the float levels set correctly. All 4 screws ( the ones facing up, need to take tank off or have really small hands to reach 2&3) are about 2 and 1/2 out.Good plugs, coil mod done. What else are we missing?

My understanding is that's a symptom of lean pilot circuit because as the bike gets hot it runs better on that lean mixture so the idle rises.
 
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