• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

just got a 1985 GS550E (-ES?) and idle issue

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dybz
  • Start date Start date
Greetings and Salutations!!

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. Dybz,

Sorry I'm late to your party. I'm going to just do my thing. ;)

Anyway, let me dump a TON if information on you and share some GS lovin'. :D

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.
big_hi.gif


If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....
hat1.gif


Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

carpet.jpg


Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike! :D

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
The next question is, where are you in illinois? I spent an ungodly amount of hours tweaking and tuning a set of the 83 GS550E carbs and would help out if you're "nearby" and have a free afternoon that matches up with my schedule.
 
i'm in chicago actually, maybe 2-3 miles west of downtown. i rode the bike to work today, and once warmed up i can mess with the idle adjust and get it idle down to 1500. in this situation, the bike runs great. picks up off the line, and ones moving doesn't hesitate. issue is, i have to mess with idle adjust to get it started from this warmed up position. i got out of work early today, and parked the bike in the garage until i can give it a good tune up like you guys are hinting at ;) .

thanks for the welcome basscliff, i've already been drowning in the loads of info on your website. thanks for taking the time to set something like that up! helps out newbies like me a bunch (and i'm sure some of the more experienced guys refer to it as well).

bunches of fun to ride, just need to make sure it's in 100% tip top shape before i continue riding.
 
Quick question... The 85 is that still the siamese carbs? Or is it the 4 seperate carbs?

I've been restoring a 83 gs550esd and i can probably help you out alot with your issues...

But like everyone said clean the carbs and check for leaks around your intake boots..

My boots have been on my bike for 10+ years but the last person to re-install them put some sort of a silicone gasket type material around the rings and it is sealed 100% still.

These bikes seem to take about 5-8 minutes to warm up before they will idle without bogging with throttle w/ choke off. So sometimes you may have to ride with the choke on and adjust as you go down the road..

My 550 has Custom pod filters (i fabbed them up and they work great) and bigger jets (110 / 107.5) and it runs great. These bikes are fun once u get them going good.
 
so started working on the bike today. didn't have too much time so only got a minimal amount of stuff accomplished. battery out, airbox unhooked, air filter out, carbs exposed. i'm a little stuck on getting the carbs themselves off. is there anything holding them on besides the various lines and the clamps/rubber boots that go to the head? i undid the clamps, but they don't seem to want to budge and i didn't want to give it too much muscle and break something.

also found out that one of the bolts holding the fuel tank on was stripped, so it was only being help down by 1 functioning bolt. also, there is a vacuum (?) line going into the airbox on the left side of the bike that was completely 100% clogged with some kind of dust/fuel/oil hairball deal.
 
To pull the carbs out after untightening the intake boot clamps, just use some good muscle power and pull them out. You may have to work it side to side a bit.
 
cool, thanks. gave it a bit of muscle and came off no problem. quick Q about petcocks: if the engine isn't running, there should be no fuel flowing unless in the "prime" position, correct? since this one doesn't have an actual "off" position.
 
That's right.If you have fuel coming out except on prime there's a problem.
 
thanks, wasn't sure about it wanted to double check. carbs are off and seem really clean from the outside. guess i'll look into rebuild kits for them. issue now is that the screws for the rubber boots on the head are lodged in there real tight. already took some metal off one of the screws and stopped right away since they all seem similarly tight. wd40 is safe around rubber right? might try spraying the screws down a bit.
 
An impact driver is the best way to remove those screws. They probably haven't been out in a while.
 
Dybz said:
thanks, wasn't sure about it wanted to double check. carbs are off and seem really clean from the outside. guess i'll look into rebuild kits for them. issue now is that the screws for the rubber boots on the head are lodged in there real tight. already took some metal off one of the screws and stopped right away since they all seem similarly tight. wd40 is safe around rubber right? might try spraying the screws down a bit.
Click to expand...


A pair of vise-grips, prefereably needle nose, along with a stout propelry fitting screw drive should get them out fine.
Awfully hard to get an impast driver in there esp on the nnermost screws.

Robert will sell you nice allen bolts to replace the original screws.
 
is bikecliff's website down? was going to order some parts from links on his site, but can't seem to get it to load :( .

thanks for the info on how to approach the boots. my regular vise-grip pliers were too big, so had to run out and grab some needle nose like jeeprusty said, but they worked like a charm. one screw didn't want to come off, but with a bit of coaxing it came off eventually. going to take the valve cover off to check valves today if i have time, otherwise just going to order filters, orings, and those sorts of things whenever i can get on bikecliff's site. will post some pics later.

non-fuel related question: what is the metal box that is on the left side of the battery box? it seems to have been corroded/rusted out by acid from the battery or something and i would like to replace it but i can't seem to find the part # on any of the sites i have. it has two connections going into it... not sure how to describe it but i can point it out in pics when i get them up, but if anyone knows what i'm talking about help would be appreciated on where i can acquire a new one.
 
Last edited:
ok here we go. in the first pic, it's the little copperish metal box still attached to the battery box. screws/backside of the metal box are corroded and rusty so couldn't get them off. also turned out battery box itself was a bit beat up from PO.
 
Dybz said:
ok here we go. in the first pic, it's the little copperish metal box still attached to the battery box. screws/backside of the metal box are corroded and rusty so couldn't get them off. also turned out battery box itself was a bit beat up from PO.
Click to expand...

I cannot recall for certain, but I believe that's the signal relay. Consult the service manual to be sure (I don't have mine handy atm).
 
went through service manual and it is indeed the ignitor. bikebandit doesn't have it on their website, any idea where i can pick one up?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top