K&N air filter in place of POD filters on 1980 GS1000G?

[Mickeymoe]

Recently I bought a 1980 GS1000G with 17k miles in super shape. It has dealer installed oversized jets and POD filters. I want to put the stock airbox back but realize the stock jets must be put back in. (The owner saved them and they came with the bike) Before I take all four carbs apart, I am going to replace the stock UNI foam element with a K&N filter which is claimed to allow a lot more air flow. Just by looking at it, it appears to have a much larger filtering surface area than foam filled with oil.

Any thoughts / opinions? If I have to replace the jets I will, but was hoping to avoid the extra work and keep the extra horsepower.

Mark

 

[Guest]

Just put the stock jets back in and the stock airbox with the K&N filter and the bike should be good to go. You 'might' need to do a bit of a tweak with the mixture screw but you don't need to play with any jets.

 

[Steve]

... but was hoping to avoid the extra work and keep the extra horsepower.

I have not seen dyno sheets for that bike, but I really doubt that the pods add very much power.

Going back to a stock airbox and jetting is a great idea. If you want, you can get a K&N insert for the stock airbox.
You can add one size to the stock main jets. That will compensate for the ethanolized gasoline and the little bit of extra air from the filter.

.

 

[geol]

If the bike were mine, I would consider investing in new pilot jets. Cleaning the old ones is a bit problematic since the holes are very small and sticking wires in with rough edges tends to screw them up. The main jets are likely fine. The drop in K&N won't flow much differntly than the stock air filter, regardless of K&N claims and as far as jetting goes, the stock jetting should be fine if you used the oiled K&N drop in. I suggest you show some restraint when oiling as too much oil is a common issue with folks who have not done this before and you can cause the bike to run real rich if you saturate the filter with spray oil. Use only K&N filter oil which is different than the oil UNI sells to be on the safe side.

 

[Mickeymoe]

So you don't think the bike will run okay with only replacing the stock airbox with the high-flow K&N filter and leaving the larger jets in place?

 

[salty_monk]

I had the exact same bike down to color... I tried it stock, with a Uni, with a K&N (2.5 oversized main and a washer on the needle) and with K&N Pods & Dynojet kit. The Uni or K&N with the one up jet and needle worked the best. The Pods moved the powerband up a bit, didn't suit the bike so much.
In all variants it wasn't a large difference.

Personally I would put the stock jets in, wash & oil the Uni & throw those cheap pods away....

If you get the canadian needles you can move the clip on them rather than use washers (other than that they are identical)

 

[rudeman]

So you don't think the bike will run okay with only replacing the stock airbox with the high-flow K&N filter and leaving the larger jets in place?

That really depends on how much larger. One or two sizes up with a stock air box and K&N drop in should be fine. They were jetted pretty lean to begin with due to ever more stringent EPA standards. On my 1000ST (same year) all 4 of my miture screws were set with some type of adhesive. Yes they were plugged to prevent tampering but they were also glued.

That is one fine looking copy of a 1000GT!

 

[Mickeymoe]

Thanks Rudy, that's what I was thinking- larger jets plus the higher flow K&N filter might just work out okay. Keeping my finger's crossed- just ordered the filter and should know in a few days. Thanks for all the input.

BTW, I bought the bike from the original owner about a month ago. Very nice bike and it runs unbelievably well. It starts within 1 turn of the starter always! which is why I don't want to mess with the carbs if I don't have too!

Mark

 

[Steve]

When you consider that the bikes were set to run lean "back in the day", then add the wear and tear over the years, it's amazing that they still run as well as they do. Now, add some more airflow through the K&N, it wouldn't hurt to go up one size on the mains. Add in that gas with ethanol does not have as many BTUs as pure gas, which requires a bit more fuel to have the same energy, you need to add jet sizing there, too. One size up on the jets would be smart, it might actually do better with two sizes, but even just one size up will do a bit better than stock.

The mixture screws were set and sealed at the factory. Again, there was no ethanol-laced fuel at the time, so the settings that worked "back then" won't be what's needed today. Don't be afraid to break the seal and richen them up at least 1/4 turn or more.

.

 

[rudeman]

Thanks Rudy, that's what I was thinking- larger jets plus the higher flow K&N filter might just work out okay. Keeping my finger's crossed- just ordered the filter and should know in a few days. Thanks for all the input.

BTW, I bought the bike from the original owner about a month ago. Very nice bike and it runs unbelievably well. It starts within 1 turn of the starter always! which is why I don't want to mess with the carbs if I don't have too!

Mark

Be sure to check the sizes you're currently running. With those CV carbs, going to pods requires a pretty significant increase in main jet size. You may run extremely rich if used the same ones with an air box and K&N.

 

[Nessism]

I'm not a fan of K&N's because they let too much dirt through to the engine. There was a long thread here not too long back so you might want to search out the info before spending the $ on a K&N.

Bumping the mains one size won't hurt much (other than maybe gas mileage). Shimming the needles helps richen the mixture too. Check the carb rebuild tutorial linked in my signature for info on how to rebuild the carbs and shim the needles. One thing you don't want to do is keep the pod jetting if running the airbox. The bike will be way too rich.

 

[Griffin]

My 1000G is set up to run a K&N OEM style filter. All I had to do was install a Dynojet Stage 1 jet kit, and follow the instructions EXACTLY.

It is noticeably stronger in the midrange and top end, and is also running less lean than stock.

You might want to take a peek at what needles are in your carbs now before buying the jet kit. If it has highly tapered needles with an adjustable clip on it, it probably already has a jet kit in it. If that is the case, I would find out exactly what jets are in it, go to the Dynojet web site and download the instructions for the proper kit, and then order the jets that come in the kit separately from Dynojet if they aren't already installed.

The most valuable parts of the kits are the needles and the instructions. Drilling out the air mixture valve plugs and backing the mixture needle valves is critical for proper perfomance as well.

 

[Rob S.]

...17k miles in super shape...dealer installed oversized jets and POD filters...avoid the extra work and keep the extra horsepower.

Kill two birds with one stone: avoid the extra work and keep the extra horsepower by running it as is. Surely you have read of the heartaches of members who have attempted jetting for new intakes, with the best outcomes usually being settling for a less than perfect running bike.

...it runs unbelievably well. It starts within 1 turn of the starter always! which is why I don't want to mess with the carbs if I don't have too!

You don't have to. You'd be opening up a Pandora's Box. Ignoring the loss of a couple of horsepower, are you confident you'll be able to get it running as good as it is now?

The only possible reason I can think of to do this is if you're absolutely in love with the look of the stock airbox. Otherwise, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Just ride it.

 

[Mickeymoe]

Hey Rob- Didn't fully understand your post. I really DO like the look of the stock airbox and what I was planning to do is replace the stock foam air filter with a higher flow K&N drop-in that I ordered today. I DON'T want to mess with the jets- that's my whole objective, but I'd like to have the stock airbox on the bike. Sort of want my cake and eat it too! I have a feeling it's going to work out okay.

And if it doesn't, THEN I'll do all my reading and research, take the carbs apart and put the stock OEM factory jets (that the seller saved) back and it should run as good as new. IF THAT DOESN'T WORK, well, I can always put the big jets BACK IN and put the POD filters on. Going to avoid Pandora's box at all costs.

Those POD filters look hokey to me (apologies to all who love them) and they break up the lines of the bike. Even non-bike people pick them out first thing on the bike. My non-bike friend sees the bike for the first time and says "What are these? These aren't stock are they?" Not that I care what he thinks, but I always see them on "bobbers" and mutilated GSs, and I don't want to be a part of that club!

 

[salty_monk]

2.5 (half step) on the main jet. Wind the air corrector (pilot adjust) a turn or so and put a couple of washers under the clip on the needle.

I've done the research on this one for you....

 

[Rob S.]

Wel, the first thing that catches my eye is that big crash guard up front. And I happen to like the look of pods over stock airbox, especially if it's partially covered in chrome (or plastic chrome).

It's just that so many guys here never attain a "perfect" running bike with pods, and you (and I) have that. Good luck, and keep us updated.

 

[Mickeymoe]

I couldn't agree more on the "crash guard/case/leg saver". It's ugly as sin but given how nice the bike it I can't bring myself to take it off just in case I ever forget to put the kickstand down and the bike lays down scratching the exhaust and engine cases. My '80 GS850G had factory case guards on which look pretty good, but I don't think they offer the protection that the big ugly "D" ring gives. I've thought about getting a black one or having it powder coated but am not sure what to do. The original owner that I bought if from said he did indeed once forget to put the kickstand down and the bike went over, but did zero damage since it balanced on the crash bar and both tires in a tripod fashion. Neither exhaust pipe has any scratches or damage at all.

I'm talking myself into accepting it because recently I've seen many new high dollar new bikes (Harley, Indian, Victory etc.) with this big crash bar.

If I end up putting on the Vetter fairing it could come off- (would install small factory case covers) as the bike would land on the chrome edging which can be replaced but the exhaust would still take a hit.

What I SHOULD do is put this thing in storage and buy a beater bike! (Just kidding, but sometimes I think this thing is too nice to ride and I should preserve it)

Mark

 

[Nessism]

Hey Rob- Didn't fully understand your post. I really DO like the look of the stock airbox and what I was planning to do is replace the stock foam air filter with a higher flow K&N drop-in that I ordered today. I DON'T want to mess with the jets- that's my whole objective, but I'd like to have the stock airbox on the bike. Sort of want my cake and eat it too! I have a feeling it's going to work out okay.

And if it doesn't, THEN I'll do all my reading and research, take the carbs apart and put the stock OEM factory jets (that the seller saved) back and it should run as good as new. IF THAT DOESN'T WORK, well, I can always put the big jets BACK IN and put the POD filters on. Going to avoid Pandora's box at all costs.

This approach is incorrect and will fail. With the stock airbox installed you must use the stock jetting (or very close). A drop in K&N will not compensate for jetting that was previously setup for pods.

If you are truly interested in preserving your bike in all it's glory then you should be focused on performing maintenance and keeping the bike as close to stock as possible.

If that was my bike I'd pull the carbs, tear them down, replace all the various O-rings, and then reassemble with stock jets. At most, bump the main one size. Regarding the needles, as mentioned already, check to see if they are stock or if maybe someone installed a Dynojet kit. If they are stock then you may want to shim them up a little. No disrespect to my friend Salty_monk, but the proper way to shim the needles is not placing washers under the clip, it's by reducing the thickness of the spacer on top of the clip. Please read the carb rebuild tutorial for more information.

Another thing that should be done is to pull off the rubber carb boots that attach to the head and replace the O-rings (at minimum). Inspect both the boots and those on the airbox and consider replacing them if they are not soft and pliable. Doing things like this will keep your bike running properly and reliably. Doing half-as$ed work like trying to run pod jetting with a stock airbox is not the way forward.

 

[Guest]

I couldn't agree more on the "crash guard/case/leg saver". It's ugly as sin but given how nice the bike it I can't bring myself to take it off just in case I ever forget to put the kickstand down and the bike lays down scratching the exhaust and engine cases. My '80 GS850G had factory case guards on which look pretty good, but I don't think they offer the protection that the big ugly "D" ring gives. I've thought about getting a black one or having it powder coated but am not sure what to do. The original owner that I bought if from said he did indeed once forget to put the kickstand down and the bike went over, but did zero damage since it balanced on the crash bar and both tires in a tripod fashion. Neither exhaust pipe has any scratches or damage at all.

I'm talking myself into accepting it because recently I've seen many new high dollar new bikes (Harley, Indian, Victory etc.) with this big crash bar.

If I end up putting on the Vetter fairing it could come off- (would install small factory case covers) as the bike would land on the chrome edging which can be replaced but the exhaust would still take a hit.

What I SHOULD do is put this thing in storage and buy a beater bike! (Just kidding, but sometimes I think this thing is too nice to ride and I should preserve it)

Mark

Yeah the big crash bar is anything but. I had one on my bike, when I had my first accident, damn thing folding like a cheap hanger and took out my stator cover. The triple mount crash bars are some of the better types.