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GSJimbo
Guest
Has anyone got or used one of these? Are they anygood?
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It works on cars OK...
It works on cars OK...
It's just a voltmeter calibrated in rich - lean connected to an O2 sensor which puts out a voltage relative to unburnt O2 in the exhaust. Not accurate like the modern wideband stuff but certainly accurate enough to set up carb jetting once you learn what you are looking at. You can do the same thing with a homemade LED voltmeter setup and an O2 sensor out of any eighties car.
It's easy to find circuit plans to make one, google it.
It works on cars OK...
It's just a voltmeter calibrated in rich - lean connected to an O2 sensor which puts out a voltage relative to unburnt O2 in the exhaust. Not accurate like the modern wideband stuff but certainly accurate enough to set up carb jetting once you learn what you are looking at. You can do the same thing with a homemade LED voltmeter setup and an O2 sensor out of any eighties car.
It's easy to find circuit plans to make one, google it.
D
distraction628
Guest
I like this on, build time about 30mins, after you get all the parts......
Works very nice in my car....someday I will put one on the Concours.
http://www.2gnt.com/www/corbin/dvm2.html
Works very nice in my car....someday I will put one on the Concours.
http://www.2gnt.com/www/corbin/dvm2.html
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U.P.dragracer
Guest
I bought a autometer gauge and wired it up to a O,2 sensor it worked great dialing in my 600 bandit {no jet kits available for what I was doing with it so I did my own jet kit LOL }
I later had the bike dynoed and the dyno guy said Wow you jetted this yourself ???? the jetting was spot on with the sniffer up to 13,000 RPM's when it went a touch rich \\
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I later had the bike dynoed and the dyno guy said Wow you jetted this yourself ???? the jetting was spot on with the sniffer up to 13,000 RPM's when it went a touch rich \\
/
first timer
Forum Sage
how did you deal with the o2 sensor? drill a hole in the header and weld a bung? or is there a o2 you can shove up the exaust to get a good reading?
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U.P.dragracer
Guest
Yes I welded in a bung in the collector area of the 4 into 1 . local muffler shops will have the bung in stock . this Mod saved me tons of time and $ buying jets and tuning carbs .
My mods are a V/H sidewinder drag pipe open , airbox removal , with velocity stacks . GSXR 750 cams , and a RF-600 ignition box .
all this was done to a 1999 600cc Bandit .
It picked up quite a bit in performance from 12.60 E.T. stock to 11.43 E.T. after the mods \\
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Nightmare
Guest
I'm thinking about changing out my stock airbox (god i hate that thing) with some K&N pods, the O2 sensors you guys posted look quite easy to build but I was curious about the placement of the O2 sensor if you are using stock exhaust.
One of the sites said "12" from the cylinder head which would put this before any collectors or "H pipes" and would then give you the O2 reading of just that one cylinder...
So on the stock exhaust would you put them in before the muffler, at the H pipe, or by one of the heads? Would you use 2 sensors to get a more accurate reading?
One of the sites said "12" from the cylinder head which would put this before any collectors or "H pipes" and would then give you the O2 reading of just that one cylinder...
So on the stock exhaust would you put them in before the muffler, at the H pipe, or by one of the heads? Would you use 2 sensors to get a more accurate reading?
I would use a heated sensor (4 wires) and put it at the collector. It's better to measure all cylinders instead just one and unheated sensor won't work properly that far from the head.
Unheated sensors needs to be very close to the head to stay hot enough. And even then they usually won't work very well at idle or low load.
Unheated sensors needs to be very close to the head to stay hot enough. And even then they usually won't work very well at idle or low load.
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U.P.dragracer
Guest
I used a heated sensor for a chevy S-10 V-6 1995 vintage \\/ I dont think it really matters much which one you use as longas it is the heated version .
Always use the connector provided with the sensor . do not solder O 2 sensor wiring as it will affect it's performance 8-[
/ I dont think it really matters much which one you use as longas it is the heated version . Always use the connector provided with the sensor . do not solder O 2 sensor wiring as it will affect it's performance 8-[
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t3rmin
Guest
With one of these heated sensors could you put it in the middle of the crossover pipe on stock 4-2 exhaust?
I'm thinking it might not read accurately there....
I'm thinking it might not read accurately there....
For cars they say as close to where the pipes come together as you can. The exhaust gasses need to be hot as possible so you don't want it down the pipe very far. Also the heating element isn't necessary, you are not using it to control warm up mixtures or anything like that, the O2 sensor will heat up soon enough when you ride, you won't be tuning mixtures on a cold engine anyway. I think it would be a no brainer to go with a four into one system and put it right where the collector joins up. On the stock system maybe where each pair of pipes come together, you could put a bung on both sides and switch back and forth to make sure all cylinders are the same. Or just use one pipe and check plugs to make sure the others are not burning hotter.
I'm thinking it might not read accurately there....
For cars they say as close to where the pipes come together as you can. The exhaust gasses need to be hot as possible so you don't want it down the pipe very far. Also the heating element isn't necessary, you are not using it to control warm up mixtures or anything like that, the O2 sensor will heat up soon enough when you ride, you won't be tuning mixtures on a cold engine anyway. I think it would be a no brainer to go with a four into one system and put it right where the collector joins up. On the stock system maybe where each pair of pipes come together, you could put a bung on both sides and switch back and forth to make sure all cylinders are the same. Or just use one pipe and check plugs to make sure the others are not burning hotter.
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U.P.dragracer
Guest
I have used both sensors , and the heated one responds quicker with throttle input :-D
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relic
Guest
What about this one?
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/air-fuel/index.asp?nav=19000&country=US
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/air-fuel/index.asp?nav=19000&country=US
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Nicholaschase29
Guest
Maybe you can snage this one,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Air-...014QQitemZ330078483362QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
If it's what I think it is anyway
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Air-...014QQitemZ330078483362QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
If it's what I think it is anyway
first timer
Forum Sage
you thinking (4) o2's in a old header? i have a old kerker that would be up for the job for 1000's and 1100's, you got a old 550 header? can Arron wire up somthing that has a memory of the peak reading, kind of like those old 80's eq's that had the bars that would bounce up and down and one would stay at the highest level reached.
