Katana wheel swap - WTH?

[salty_monk]

Yes, that's exactly what I mean. I had to relieve some ribs in the cush drive in key areas (didn't really need too but I did just to make sure I didn't get any metal to metal contact).

I managed to get it very Square & accurate with a disk grinder mounted in a vice & held by hand (using big leather gauntlets - it gets hot!)

Take your time & regular use of accurate calipers helps highlight the high spots. It is hard so that helps as material doesn't just disappear at a rate you can't control.

My sprocket drive is now inset of the wheel hub about 2mm from memory once it's all bolted up & the cush drive etc is working fine it seems.

Dan

 

[Big T]

Dan,

It doesn't look like grinding down the spacer will work

That's because the wheel hub

And the sprocket drum

Both have 55 x 12 mm male/female joint combination.Both of these would have to be ground down to shorten the distance. So, it looks like getting the sprocket mounting face will have to be examined next.

I took out the spacer and the cush drives and only gained 1 mm. I could probably get that much when it gets tightened down.

 

[dlanes]

Any progress with this?

 

[Big T]

Nope, been too busy to get an accurate measurement to take to the machinist

I'll need to remove the correct amount of material from the sprocket drum to get a minimum clearance on the swingarm. I can swap spacers (or make a new one) to get the wheel centered, but as it sits now the bolts hit the swingarm when the wheel is centered.

I can't just take a bunch off the sprocket drum as then the chain will hit the tire.

Coming soon

 

[Billy Ricks]

If you grind on the bearing support, that's what it really is, make certain that the meat comes off the outboard end of the support. It's there to keep the bearings centered within themselves. If you take it off the outboard end the spacer that fits in the sprocket carrier should sit a little further down in the carrier.

 

[Big T]

Nope, I'll just be removing the face where the sprocket rides, Looks to be about 40 mm deep, so taking 6 mm off shouldn't hurt

I can see that I'll have to extend the threads on the bolts also. Then chop off the excess bolt once the locking nut is on. Unless the machinist has a better idea

 

[Billy Ricks]

Nope, I'll just be removing the face where the sprocket rides, Looks to be about 40 mm deep, so taking 6 mm off shouldn't hurt

I can see that I'll have to extend the threads on the bolts also. Then chop off the excess bolt once the locking nut is on. Unless the machinist has a better idea

If you're talking about taking it off the surface the sprocket bolts to that won't do anything to move the wheel to the left. It will help line up the sprockets but you'll still have the same amount of spacers, bearings, and bearing supports to deal with. You have to find some way to move it to the left but that won't do it. You could do a combination of milling the carrier where the sprocket rides then take some off the very outer edge of the carrier where the spacer fits in the seal. Then the spacer itself will need to be milled and the seal cut down so it doesn't extend beyond the carrier.

When I did my rear wheel I used an assortment of spacers to get the wheel where it needed to be. I also ground a little off the outside edge of the caliper hanger just to give me a little more space in the swingarm.

 

[salty_monk]

You can also take some material off where you indicate... That's what I did.

Dan

Dan,

It doesn't look like grinding down the spacer will work

That's because the wheel hub

And the sprocket drum

Both have 55 x 12 mm male/female joint combination.Both of these would have to be ground down to shorten the distance. So, it looks like getting the sprocket mounting face will have to be examined next.

I took out the spacer and the cush drives and only gained 1 mm. I could probably get that much when it gets tightened down.

 

[Big T]

If you're talking about taking it off the surface the sprocket bolts to that won't do anything to move the wheel to the left. It will help line up the sprockets but you'll still have the same amount of spacers, bearings, and bearing supports to deal with. You have to find some way to move it to the left but that won't do it. You could do a combination of milling the carrier where the sprocket rides then take some off the very outer edge of the carrier where the spacer fits in the seal. Then the spacer itself will need to be milled and the seal cut down so it doesn't extend beyond the carrier.

When I did my rear wheel I used an assortment of spacers to get the wheel where it needed to be. I also ground a little off the outside edge of the caliper hanger just to give me a little more space in the swingarm.

I know that

I can move the wheel far enough to the left to be centered, the sprocket bolts then hit the swingarm.

That's the problem.

Sprocket bolts hit the swingarm (should I say it again?)

That's why I'm going to move the sprocket inboard by shaving the face of the drum

 

[Big T]

You can also take some material off where you indicate... That's what I did.

Dan

Dan,

I would have to grind the wheel hub male, the sprocket drum female, the spacer plus all 5 splines to gain anything at that junction.

Shaving the sprocket face sounds easier

 

[RacingJake]

Dang that sprocket in the next zip code.

I put a 90's gsxr 5.5 rim on mine and the sprocket is 1 inch from the outside of the rim. That's going to be a PITA to get it to work then may be a weak area after all the cutting ?? I'd find another wheel with a 6 pad cush drive that way you can use the GS sprocket hub, be easier and safer ??

 

[pontiacstogo]

I'll need to remove the correct amount of material from the sprocket drum to get a minimum clearance on the swingarm. I can swap spacers (or make a new one) to get the wheel centered, but as it sits now the bolts hit the swingarm when the wheel is centered.

Are you centering the wheel in the swingarm, or to the centerline of the frame?

A lot of swingarms are offset - not sure if that's true of the stock GS arm? Whenever I've done swingarm and/or wheel conversions, I always line the swingarm up to the shock mounts, then center the wheel to the frame, NOT the swingarm. Another method is to get the frame level and assemble the stock swingarm/wheel/spacers, then mark the floor where the center of the wheel is. Then fit up your new wheel and/or swingarm combination and center it to the same mark.

Once the wheel is centered to the frame, then you can adjust the rear sprocket carrier, or use an offset front sprocket to get the correct chain alignment.

 

[Big T]

Are you centering the wheel in the swingarm, or to the centerline of the frame?

A lot of swingarms are offset - not sure if that's true of the stock GS arm? Whenever I've done swingarm and/or wheel conversions, I always line the swingarm up to the shock mounts, then center the wheel to the frame, NOT the swingarm. Another method is to get the frame level and assemble the stock swingarm/wheel/spacers, then mark the floor where the center of the wheel is. Then fit up your new wheel and/or swingarm combination and center it to the same mark.

Once the wheel is centered to the frame, then you can adjust the rear sprocket carrier, or use an offset front sprocket to get the correct chain alignment.

Check the picture above

 

[gustovh]

Time to chime in. Remove the sprocket and sprocket bolts, face the sprocket carrier 8mm, shorten the bolts and reassemble. Unless I am missing something.
V