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Kawasaki H2 750

  • Thread starter Thread starter Joe H
  • Start date Start date
Its funny how the H2 (stock) went from super quick in '72 to 13 second quarter miles in 1974. My Scoutmaster bought one of the first ones in '72, and was dumb enough to let me ride it. I didn't have a license yet. It was a sub 20 mpg machine, he told me at the time. He still has it, mostly in boxes.
 
Joe H said:
SOLD THIS




BOUGHT THIS



AND THE REST OF THE $$$ WILL FUND THIS
Sick and tierd (and to old) to be working on the ground. Cheap but seems sturdy, stable, and rolls real nice with the bike on it.
Click to expand...

I had a 900 Ninja, first year as well. It needed the starter clutch replaced and a few other things. I almost had to give it away. I was surprised that it wasn't worth more. What did you get for yours?
 
850 Combat said:
Its funny how the H2 (stock) went from super quick in '72 to 13 second quarter miles in 1974. My Scoutmaster bought one of the first ones in '72, and was dumb enough to let me ride it. I didn't have a license yet. It was a sub 20 mpg machine, he told me at the time. He still has it, mostly in boxes.
Click to expand...
The first year models for both the H1 and H2 were a bit faster. The rely H2's hd different cylinders and they are still worth a bit more to collectors. The preproduction bikes set to the magazines where supposedly a bit different than the production runs , advertising was all about 1/4 mile. I have seen tests done on random samples of most of the years and believe it or not they all were really close to the same HP once production started there were some oil pump mods and tuning mods done to improve milage and oil consumption. If he wants to sell those parts contact me maybe Id be interested.

The Ninja 900 had the starter clutch changed by the PO but he never put it back together. I did a bunch of work on it cleaning the carbs, brake bleeding, valve ECT. Had less than 500$ into it sold it for $725 asked 750 on craigs list had 4 call inside 20 min and a Guy came in under 2 hours and loaded it up. I tried to hold out for 750 but he only brought 725, smart on his part because I said OK. It was a good deal all around!
 
That's interesting...the '84 Ninja I almost bought also needed a starter clutch.

Very glad I went air-cooled.
 
Ninja 900's
starter clutch(need to split cases to change it)
soft valves that would tulip into the head
bad oil pump pick ups that would lead to cam wear
and cam spalling issues
But it is still legendary!!
 
Joe H said:
Ninja 900's
starter clutch(need to split cases to change it)
soft valves that would tulip into the head
bad oil pump pick ups that would lead to cam wear
and cam spalling issues
But it is still legendary!!
Click to expand...
Yes, and all of those things happened to mine. I sold it after 27 years of ownership, in great garaged condition for 600 bucks. Along with a set of performance machine billet brakes.
 
Thought Id update this thread. Got the lights all wired and working, sorry no pics of that, I had some but must have deleted them.
Started working on grinding in the reeds into the cylinders, this will take some time.
Here are some pics of the reeds and the cylinders. You can see in the second pic Im getting close to running out of gasket matting surface on the top right of the photo??. Got to be MORE careful!!, I believe I stopped in time! Its less than .5mm less than the copper heat gasket that come with the kit (if that makes any sense). I may build it up with a touch of epoxy Im not sure yet. The copper heat gasket gets set to the cylinders with sealant so it may be fine.
Also the finish inside the ports is meaningless as the reeds come with an insert that takes the place of the port most of the way to the cylinder wall, although I am still going to smooth it out.
Im hoping to have it running by spring, even if there are some loose ends to do, Id like it to be road worthy, it may be awhile before my trusty GS1150 is back up and on the road once I get time to look at it. The GS needs some TLC, starer clutch, and the last ride I took in fall it made a horrendous noise that I have only heard on my table saw right before the bearings on the shaft went flying! So my plan with that is to do a inspection before I start it again, look at the oil, the starter clutch, maybe see if I can poke a camera into the crank area thru the oil pan, I don't know if that is possible??
Anyway hoping for the best with the GS.


 
Went well getting the reeds to fit, got the pistons laid out to get the holes in them.


 
i see a lady bug...opened my wallet the other day and guess what???
a damn lady bug.
those and the damn alien looking camel back crickets are killing me!
oh,
nice work...i can almost smell the bean oil :D
 
Lady bugs are some of the few GOOD bugs. They eat the bad bugs. They purchase them by the thousands and release them in campgrounds out west to eat the mosquitoes.
 
Back on topic AND to include a Suzuki GS model...







GSX400 that is certain to turn heads. :D
 
I heat that garage up and those lady bugs come out! My garage door faces south- south west so in the fall its like a horror film with them and the box elder bugs! I nearly filled my small shop vac bag one year letting the kids suck them up!

That GS Kawi combo must have bee quite a build. Those big reed boxes can produce tons of power.

I look at some of the restores and builds here and on other sites and Im just stunned.
This H2 I'm building really is just a rat that will look good at 30mph or 30 ft. Up close there is some really nice workmanship and some not so nice! But I don't want to feel like it cannot go out to play because its dressed to nice!
 
Unfortunately its all wrapped up! Didn't want metal shavings all over it, once I'm done grinding-drilling I will unwrap, I cannot wait to get to work on it. All this grinding and drilling is taking longer than I thought. (life gets in the way!)

I did mange to slot one piston, but if you look at the left side you can see a bit of drill slip..:mad:
So I ordered up a set of center drills which will make this much easier.

 
Got the pistons in, heads are mounted but only to seal it up for now they will come off again. I may be getting them welded to keep them from cracking, I haven't decided how important this is yet.
Here are a few pics.
I should really learn to use my wives Canon it would take much better pics than my cell phone… So here are a few pics. You can see the boost ports on the intake side of the cylinder. The name on the piston is my cousins written in 1996, I didn't wipe it off…. I just couldn't.. I'll let the combustion do it.
The head light and tail light are LED. I cut the stock head light and installed both an h4 bulb and an LED. The LED runs on the low beam and the h4 on the high beam. The blinkers are SUPER cheap but save a few watts too. The electrical system on these old bikes are limited so saving power can help.














 
steve murdoch said:
"No Officer, i don't know how fast i was going because i don't need no stinkin' speedometer"
Very tidy dash.
Click to expand...

All those numbers confuse me anyway!!! All I wanta' know is when she's gonna' to blow!

Seriously though I'm sure you noted the bike speedo which should work fine. My other thought is a mount (which I have on my GS) for my phone with a speedo app that works really well. I use it on my GS and like having the GPS also.
 
Getting more done on this project and looking forward to spring.
Did a leak down test, fought intake leaks like MAD, WOW, but in the end conquered them.
Needed to hold 6 lb's for 6 min both vacuum and pressure.


Also got the Zeelrtonic ignition set up. I am having a bit of a brain fart trying to understand some of the workings of the unit but I have assured myself it will become evident once I time it with a strobe when its running.
You set all the pickups as advanced as you can by moving the plate and the pickups as far as they will go. Then you measure the static angle of the crank with a dial gauge (they provide a excel spread sheet that does the math thankfully) and set the unit up initially. Once it is running you strobe each cylinder and set the final settings. I marked the ignition rotor from 0 deg TDC to 30 deg BTDC so when I strobe it I will be able to see how far advanced it will be. This has to be done CAREFULLY. The Zeel unit will retard to any point, you have 12 points for the ignition curve. So for example it would start at 15 deg at 1000 rpm and slowly advance to 23 to 27 deg advance before the pipe hits around 5000 rpm depending on the pipe and then retard down to 15 deg by 9000 rpm. I have a few good starting curves from guys who have worked with these units. Alleviates detonation which these bikes have been know for! It also has a shift light I hooked to the stop lamp on the tach and a soft rev limiter you can set. Theres a bunch more options too that I won't use. Its a neat unit. I ordered it with the controller to program it you can also program it with a PC. Its right below the carbs in the pic.

I set the marks on the rotor at 5 deg increments. They are as close as I can get and they were all repeatable several times. I believe they are at least a constant maybe not perfect but a good controlled measuring point.
 
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